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emosound

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  • Location
    Lansdale, PA
  • Car
    05 GT W 5MT, 98 BMW M3/4, Miata gone :-(
  • Interests
    autocross
  • Occupation
    audio engineer

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  1. The last straw for me was the driver's side vents shooting max heat at me when it was 100 degrees outside! I put a little video on the Legacy GT Owners Club FB Group. It's not a walkthru, but shows the area you have to work in. https://www.facebook.com/1544025094/videos/1175316156319300/ -Paul
  2. Bringing back a thread from the dead. Excellent info in here, and the correct part numbers and functions of the actuators. My car had a bad driver's side temp actuator, so when I wanted AC, it was blowing hot air. Inconvenient. I was not looking forward to taking out the dash, so I tried it from the bottom, above the pedals. It is a PITA, but it's possible. Didn't even take too long, but it's just very tight. I took off the panel above the pedals, then removed the rectangular MT/AT module that is attached to the steering shaft. 3 electrical connectors, a clip, and 2 10mm bolts hold it to the shaft. I used a Gearwrench to take them out. With the module removed, I could see 2 of the 3 screws, and the arm that is supposed to actuate the temp flap. When I turned the key on, and adjusted the temp, it moved twice, then quit. So I removed the 2 screws, and squeezed the white tube so the ziptie would come off the bottom tab of the actuator. The 3rd screw is out of sight on the top, and recessed a bit, and hidden by the white tube. It helps if you have a mirror, or a tiny snake camera ( I have one that connects to my phone, very handy). Look at the bracket on the new actuator to get an idea of where the screw goes. I jammed my hand past the wire bundles and used a stubby #2 screwdriver to take the screw out. The actuator comes out pretty easily. To get it back in, I used electrical tape to secure that 3rd screw to the bracket, and carefully put the new unit in, just starting the bottom 2 screws and making sure the pin on the actuator's arm was in the slot for the flap lever. Then I tightened up that 3rd screw, then the other 2. It works! -Paul
  3. Hey, I’m in Lansdale, PA. I still have a 2005 Legacy GT Limited wagon with 5MT in Regal Blue. -Paul Andrews
  4. Hey, spotted my car’s near-twin on Schoolhouse Rd in Harleysville,PA just after noon. Black 05+ LGT wagon. I figure you might live near there, I’m over in Towamencin. -Paul
  5. The 5.0 is a totally different feel. The HPS was an ancient compound, I don't know what's different, but it's a whole other world. I suspect the pedal weirdness is a result of the combination of the recirc valve on the intake and the check valve. I don't have a boost/vac gauge, I'd be curious to see at what vac level the booster starts taking vacuum from the manifold. It must need to be a strong vacuum. The thought has crossed my mind to try an electric-motor driven vacuum pump, but I have nowhere near the time or expertise to do it from scratch. Pretty much everything about this car makes me appreciate my 98 BMW M3 even more. Except the wheel bearings, which I understand are a pain on the BMW, but easy to change on the LGT. OTOH, with the same mileage, the LGT bearings failed, while the M3 bearings are fine. So...
  6. This car is weird. I had awful problems with deposits with the stock rotors and pads from new. Finally got the dealer to change them out. Then I switched to HPS, just soft pedal, but the pads weren't too bad. Then I went to the Stoptechs after fitting them to my M3. I had problems with deposits after bedding, I had to bed them repeatedly, shudder would keep coming back after a while. My M3 occasionally has a shudder, too, but very mild compared to the LGT. I tried the new HPS 5.0 after seeing some good reviews. I took extra care to bed them precisely as the box says, and cool them down with a long drive with no brakes afterwards. No shudder. Rock hard pedal, good bite, little dust. It's been a couple months, I'm happy so far, this is the most firm the pedal in this car has been. I'm not swapping the STi MC on if it stays like this. SS lines did almost nothing for pedal feel, I tried them a few years ago.
  7. Just a note on pads. I have an STI MC/booster in my basement I haven't gotten around to installing. Stock rotors and calipers, SS lines. Street driven car, my wife's DD. I also tried the Hawk HPS (hated them, soft), then Stoptech Street Performance (massive issues with pad deposits, shuddering brakes). Now I have the new Hawk HPS 5.0. Very nice, rock solid pedal, excellent bite, no deposits. I like these a lot. I don't feel the need to try the STI MC setup with these pads.
  8. As a side note, has anyone used subarupartspro.com to order things? I ordered the booster hose thru them almost 2 weeks ago now, and haven't received so much as an emailed order confirmation, and I've sent a couple email inquiries. Glad I didn't order rotors or anything....
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