Slade-Runner

Does anybody know if the trunk lid is the same as face lift year?

I had issues with mine a little while back (couldn't communicate with the ECU), and they warrantied the cable for me. I think there's a 3 year warranty if you still have the receipt.

I'm passing on it, I still rather have the other jdm style bumper.

Is that a flip up cover?

Madrig, have you tried making a dash gauge pod to replace the nav/bin? I bought one from Ortiz that looks good but it started cracking in less than a year. I already sold the nav screen and have been looking for a replacement. http://ortizcustompods.com/uploads/3/4/1/7/34174225/s477132602315564541_p1313_i2_w1280.jpeg

What does it take to convert it? I'm a bit of a hack when it comes to a dremel, so not looking to spend that much if I got to sweat trying do a lot of cutting... I also assume "jdm face lift" means that headlights and fenders need to be changed.

So I'm an idiot. I hooked up my original headlights out of curiosity, and low beams come on along with the high beam DRL....... *head desk and repeat* I really don't get to see the DRLs normally, because it requires car running and e-brake off, and my parking space on an incline, it didn't click that it might be the case. You can imagine the giant sigh I let out, having the old headlight facing me while sitting in my car...

Alright, had to reread several times (******* dyslexia). So you have a relay in between the high beam signal, that is normally open until the low beam switch is active? It sounds like it might help, but my concern is that there is still the DRL power is coming in through the high side when the lows are on. Previously when I hooked everything up (without the current relay setup) the projector highs would be on while the switch was on low beam. With the current relay setup, the LED is on but not triggering solenoid (I'm not hearing chattering). I just noticed last night that one of the projectors is out. So now I'm worried that the DRL signal could be frying the LED driver via relay switching on/off fast, and powering enough to turn on the LED but not the solenoid, while having the low beam switch active. I think that's just my paranoid brain though. I have to do some tests this weekend, I'll have to try this and/or a few other ideas. Maybe the zener diode mentioned in the hidplanet thread, or the other idea of triggering off another source. I'll post what I find for science and future reference to others.

UPDATE: I used a relay harness from Morimoto that triggers off the high beam connector, and powers the bi-led driver from battery, and it works... sort of... High/low beams are working properly, high has both factory and projector high on. DRL is the weird part, now it's triggering the low beam on the bi-led projector, and the factory high beams are off for DRL, even though they are still hooked up. I'm thinking of just tapping into the high beam switch on the steering column.

bump?

When I had first been running the low wastegate tune, 17-18psi and sometimes 20psi spikes when target is 16psi +/-.8. Now after the reset it spiked upwards of 17psi, but after a few days it hangs around low 15psi sometimes spikes to 16psi. today it maxed out at 13.9psi. Could the wastegate actuator be going bad?

Ambient temp has been all over 50-70, raining some times when cold and dry when hot (Seattle area...), sea level.

After installing my downpipe and flashing Cobb Stage 2 OTS map on my 08 Spec B, I noticed it overboosting, I reflashed to low wastegate tune and still was getting some overboost. I was talking with a couple tuners and getting different opinions, varying from needing an external wastegate to the downpipe divider obstructing the internal wastegate. Then I noticed that it was peaking a little over 15psi (Cobb's notes were saying peak should be 16psi +/- .8) and stopped overboosting after about a month of driving. The tuners I talked to said before this that the ECU's learning doesn't affect the boost control and wouldn't be the cause of overboosting. I tried resetting the learning, and it overboosts again. So did the tuners misunderstand how it works or is there another potential issue? I also did a smoke test to check if I have leaks anywhere and found smoke coming out from the plates opposite of the TGV motors on booth housings, is that normal or could there be a bad seal? Stock/Mod list: Stock intake, stock boost control valve, stock bypass valve, Invidia turbo back (lower cat), Grimmspeed TMIC, Perrin turbo inlet hose

I disconnected the red wire and then tried pulling the white plug to the DRL unit, same results.

I built a pair of headlights with Morimoto M LED 2.0 projectors for my 08 Legacy, and I'm having an issue of that they are on high beams only. If I disconnect the high beam connection going into the driver, it'll switch to low. I've already tried disabling the DRLs, but that doesn't change it because normally the high beams will still come on low power with the low beams, which is where I think they are getting a signal from. Does anybody know where the low power for the high beams comes from, and/or has a wiring diagram that shows it?