Karlor

I'm considering to take this plunge as well, however just last year I had a new pump put in for my 06 OBXT, and I think the refresh must have blown out a seal because now my drivers side boot developed a steady trickle of PS fluid. The rack was replaced by the previous owner at 185K, I'm now at 205K.... bummer. Two questions I have: -Will my 2006MY brand new pump (34430AG0419L) be enough to handle the new 2015 rack? A comment in this thread above was mentioning judder in the feedback and I'm curious if this is what can be expected running the 2015 rack with my new 2006 pump. -Is it possible to use OE 2006MY OBXT tie rod ends? I have stock height suspension and no plans to lower the car, possibly may consider a small lift in the future. I have seen numerous mentions of the Wihiteline rod-ends bump steer kit, they are expensive. Any alternatives to the Whiteline kit? Many thanks from forum noob Karlor for this epic thread!

Any specific suggestions or input you have on preventing or delaying the occurrence of a ynansb-type fiasco is welcome and appreciated As far as the cold air intake is concerned, I got it in a sale pack during last holiday times along with the AP. Are you suggesting i don't use it?

An interesting anecdote, thank you for sharing. My primary goal is to never need a new shortblock. Glad to know I don't have to shell out good bucks for an OE grenade.

Thanks all for the knowledgeable replies. Sounds like for now I'll probably be fine to leave it off for the time being seeing that I'm trying to keep the car garaged and off the roads through winters, but down the line will probably look for a replacement anyways.

That's a good guess, the motor was indeed replaced around 170k. So even though the web catalog shows the cooler assembly in the newer model cars, they weren't shipping with it?

I've realized after looking through the online OE catalog that the previous owner removed the factory oil cooler along with the hard line that ran over to the water pump. Currently there's just a rubber hose from the block nipple running directly over to the water pump housing nipple. In searching I couldn't find any recent posts but I am curious as to speculation of why it may have been removed in the first place. Should I replace with all new OE, look for aftermarket, or is it ok to leave it as is? Adding to the equation is in a few weeks I'll finally have weather and time to install my upgrades so I'd like to be sure. JMP VF52 COBB UP Invida Catted DP Cobb CAI and inlet. IAG Air-Oil Separator Cobb AP Thank you, and happy spring

Good question about my change frequency. I did my first change immediately after purchase and then decided to switch to Rotella T6 shortly after this first. I’ll need to double check my total mileage on the car [see edit in post #1], ‘twas a late night NYE post and I wanted to get something up. Maybe its more like 9k. I'm fairly certain I'm hovering right about 3200 miles for the the middle two changes, and this final one I did because winter and I wanted to get one done before snow and cold. I unfortunately didn't see the oil leak until after I finished up my most recent oil change. No weird noises so far as I can tell, guess I was just trying to get a few solid oil changes done. I just bought a brand new turbo from JMP and forwarded this thread to him.

Hey all. I'm dropping a first post and will be building off this thread in the coming weeks/months. In summer (2019), bought a used 2006 Outback XT with 200k on the clock which had a new block put in at 170k, along with some other preventative maintenance updates. The car is overall in great shape, especially for salt-state MN, and is completely stock at this point aside from a rear muffler delete and wheels/flaps done from the previous owner.: I have been driving this car minimally over the last year, hardly even 5k miles total [edit #1: It's more miles than 5k but under 10k, just can't check at the moment], done 4 oil changes, and this past October 2020 noticed the turbo was weeping oil from its bottom side. I garaged the car and pulled the turbo for examination. I'll admit that this is the first turbo vehicle I've owned, so am using my best guesses in my inspection. It was definitely oil leaking, and when I finally got the turbo up on the bench and went to spin off the bolts securing the oil outlet pipe, it seemed like one of them almost twisted loose with hardly any effort. As much as I'd like to believe that the leak was from the loose bolt or outlet pipe gasket, upon further inspection it seems in my opinion that I've got a bit of shaft play and I can see what looks like a bit of scoring on the turbo shell, although I'm not sure. -->Clip of the play<-- -->clip 2 - turbine wiggled from the exhaust side <-- Not sure exactly how to proceed at this point. I'm thinking that having the oil tested might be a good idea, but I changed the oil in the car shortly before pulling the turbo so I'm not sure if it would be all telling. Prior to noticing the leak, the car seemed to drive fine. Can anyone tell from the shaft play in the video link above or markings inside of the inlet flange if I have a significant likelihood of larger issue or engine damage? Would be happy to post any other pics or a vid if it would help. [edit #2: Prior to noticing the oil leak I had been gathering parts to upgrade. Laying in wait I have: Cobb AP, Invidia Catted DP, Cobb Air Intake w/Box, IAG Air-Oil Separator, magnetic oil pan bolt, and still waiting for shipment on a Cobb UP w/EGT sensor and Cobb Inlet.]. 12/31/20 [edit #3: Just confirmed shipment of a brand new turbo from the man himself JmP6889928.]. 12/31/20 Thanks for any input, on the turbo or otherwise, sorry for the multiple edits, and happy new years, 2021 is gonna be sweet!