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A.n.bastaki

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    Milwaukee,Wi
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    2005 GRP LGT Wagon

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  1. True, at the end of the day I did so much and learned so much during all of this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Hahaha, it does have a motor that is capable of some boost. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. The white wagon that wouldn’t started ended up being stupid simple .. 1 connector was left unplugged. It was cold & getting late, when it didnt run first attempt we called after trying to address codes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Don’t know exactly why it spun. But when i look back at everything... its like wow, no wonder it spun and why the f*** did i do this or that. After doing as much work as possible and trying to not have any short cuts when i first “rebuilt” it. Every time it broke, i got faster at putting it back together that i realized part of me being faster was related to cutting some corners. Lets start from the previous time it stopped working. 5k after putting motor back together. Get up one day, start her up, she idles for less than a minute then dies. Won’t start again. In the process of figuring it out, i spent hours testing connectors & wires. Injector signal for example you need to test while someone is cranking the engine.. if i had to say, i would say that motor was cranked over 100 times before it was ever pulled out and we discovered the cam gear was messed up. Consensus on the cam gear being messed up is likely improper installation or application. I am using TurnInConcepts FU cam bolts, but i don’t think had anything to do with it, i think i didnt align it right when i installed it, or torqued it wrong. We had spare avcs cam gears, so we replaced it. Since we knew we were tearing it apart, i bought new head gaskets & brought over my buddy’s used heads. When i took my heads to the machine shop, the machine shop didn’t know passenger side & driver side cams were different. Since he had a total of 3 heads for my project, he mistakenly put passenger side cams on both heads. Well when correct cams was installed, the driver side’s valve lash will no longer be the same. Idk how significant of a difference, but at the time it was thought to be wiser to run my buddy’s used heads. The problem with my buddy’s used heads is we didnt clean them!!!! Those heads are in great condition, but they were separated because his block had ringland failure... and i didnt fuckjng clean the head... wtf. Obviously wiped it down and shit, but not clean to were ur not worried about that many contaminants. So dirty heads, and over cranking it over 100 times with it ever starting. Especially with our cold were here in wisconsin. I think thats what caused it. So. After we got the car running last time. My second oil change i saw a lot of shavings. First 2 changes were short & with rotella. So 3rd change i add motul. So far i have yet to really hammer on it. 150 miles into motul, i do 120 in mexico the night before. Wake up, do another 120 on my way to my buddy’s house. After getting of the highway after doing 120, it died on the light, started it up and drove it. Between shifts sounded weird like my turbo was gone or something. Considering i didnt replace the turbo, had a small banjo leak(.. i know.. more fuckary not address) , and JMP. Specifically told me my turbo has play and if i would run it i should definitely stay out of WOT & replace turbo asap (that was 7500miles ago, and a lot of fun driving since). So i assumed my turbo took a shit. Half a mile from my buddy’s house, it wouldn’t start again and needed towed to my buddy’s place. Discovered it was spun bearings, considered ej20x then selling it right away. Decided against it, sold it as it to a friend for dirt cheap, hoping for him to fix it & flip it. But i have a feeling he’ll want to add it to his collection when its fixed so idk lol. I love these cars, they are just too picky for me, and i honestly don’t make the type of money to be able to afford them with the way i drive them. Switched over to the dark side.. honda. Im a college student who hasn’t built himself up yet, and does reckless shit like this thread has exposed multiple times. Needed something reliable & cheap. was inbetween an 2000 civic si (em1) or a honda element/crv so i got space for the doggo too. Ended up going with 2002 crv, so far love it. Its a 5spd manual 4wd with the K series motor(k24a1). Even though its not fulltime awd and just goes4wd when it needs it, the manual trans & 4wd is desirable among hondas since its now common to do awd swaps. Hoping to daily it and save up for a fun car while focusing on school & doggo. But i also want to start modifying it loool. I was told foresters are the same. But DUDE! Crv’s are the perfect height for drive through windows. Like i didnt even know that was a thing. I already miss my turbo, subaru’s throttle feel/response & perkyness, and how subaru feels like driving a stiff cagged beast around any turn at any speed lool. Idk if i’ll be back in subarus, but for now i’m excited to learn & explore this new platform. Maybe k swap a subaru and get the best of both worlds hahaha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Didn’t post here, but car spun a crank bearing, and now car is for sale for $1000 no motor. Going NA route. Currently Working on friends 2002 wrx... (info below) Spun a rod did a newer jdm short-block and good heads usdm heads and usdm everything, Ran into crank sensor and knock sensor codes, car will crank but won’t start. According to research it says check the following. Thought I’d share for future reference. - crank sensor - gear - harness - timing No crank sensor no spark. Gotta fix the crank sensor code before it'll ever start. Research credits : Josh Barrett Car owner : Paul Males Car : 2002 wrx, used the shortblock of a jdm ej20 single avcs, but used usdm heads and usdm everything. Only jdm shortblock, so basically identical, changed the crank & knock sensor because forgot the jdm ones in it. But still same thing, crank gears were compared they are the same on this one. Also, no issues with avcs or cam gear of cam sensor or cams because usdm heads used... also usdm harness.. so idk... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Thank you, I am glad its back too. Was worried i was gonna go a few months without a car, but lucky its back on the road and I have already put 300miles on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Ended Saturday night like this, with everything ready to go in. Took a few hours to put back in and add all the fluids, started right up and sounded great. Within less than a minute a bunch of brownish foam started spraying from behind the passenger side head. Turned it off as quickly as possible and went to inspect. Looked like the banjo bolt that connects to the head wasn’t tighten cause its leaking. I go to put a wrench on it, spun with no force for 1/4 turn then fell out. Definitely over tighten that, i recall the first time i did banjo bolts i used the torque specs and was surprised for it not asking as much, this time around we didnt use a torque wrench and used the dumb idea of “washers look good, just tighten it a bit harder than before so it doesn’t leak” Quick trip to Harbor freight Disconnected the downpipe and dropped the uppipe and headers, and friend went in with the extractor through the oil line. This gave me a panic attack but knowing the precision work he does for a living, i wasn’t worried about it as much. Put new washers and a spare banjo bolt in there, added oil, it was basically dry. Then started it up, ran good. Noticed the abs light was on, and windows rolling slowly, go to drive it , and in 2 miles radio and cluster shut off, and then car starts bogging, pulled into a gas station and called for reinforcements. The alternator was bad. We took my original alternator off when we were diagnosing the car when all this started happening and the one we put on we haven’t ran before. So turns out its bad. Put my old alternator back on. Got a jump start from a friend, and its running good. Have less than 20 miles on it so far, but drove it to class today and everything seems fine. Other than a P2096 code for “ post cat fuel trim system too lean” which i was told is a code that tuners shut off when going cat-less. Tuner & I are no longer on good terms unfortunately, so i’ll have to run it like this until i get a tune else where or start tuning my own shit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I think it took 2/3 hours to come out, then the rest of the day to put it back together, my motor rebuild was the first i’ve done (earlier in this thread) but pulled, tore down, and put back together a couple since then, all the nuts and bolts being fresh on this helps a ton. We were also a team of 3, 1 of which we’ve pulled,disassembled , reassembled and drop in together before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Spent all day in the garage and thankfully made some great progress. Everything i tested checks out and i was still lost, so went with pulling the motor to confirm what others told me about theres something wrong in the heads. Started by draining fluids & then pulled the motor. Not gonna lie starting to get good and quick at this whole motor pull thing haha. Tore the more down with the plan of replacing the heads and obviously inspecting to find the issue. Driver side head was find, i will try to take pictures later but other than the buckets looking like that had harsher markings on them, it was all good. Still swapped the head with a different head from my buddy. The passenger side was the problem. I read yesterday on a dodge neon forum ( https://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=331888 ) that someone had the same issue, turns out the cam gear sheared the alignment pin on the cam. Which makes sense why my timing went off out no where, first check it looked like it was off a tooth, before we retimed it , it looked like it was off more. Anyway. My issue turns out the cam gear got damaged. I honesty don’t know how or why that happened, and would really appreciate input on this part so i don’t run into this issue again. But from the Dodge forum and some discussion with a friend. The pin on the cam aligns the gear, the torque on the bolt is what holds it in place. So my thought process & assumption is that I did not torque the bolt down properly and thats what happened. I don’t fully recall what i did last time but im sure i followed the FSM, same with this time, FSM asks for 22.3 ft-lbs then 45° more. Today did that and then another ugga dugga or two more lol. Keep in mind i have Turn in Concept FU Cam Bolts. Which made the job trouble free and nice. Almost the universe telling me “see b****, now stop fussing about buying those bolts cause you wanted to go all out then changed your mind and wanted to sell it and the money wasn’t worth it blah blah blah”. But also , not sure if the torque specs change, i assume not, and can’t find anything relating to a different spec from a quick search. All i got left now is to put the intake manifold back on tonight, and drop the motor in tomorrow. Excitement motivation and enthusiasm are back to optimal levels, and I am looking forward to starting it tomorrow. Bought brand new head gaskets, although old ones are have only 5k miles on them and look new, and brand new plugs, reusing everything else. And obviously using friend’s use B25 heads and a cam gear from him too. PS, buying the company23 cam gear wrenches from initial rebuild are coming in handy real well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Bump. Pulled out each fuse individually to inspect it further “just in case” no luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Spent all day in the garage, still no start but maybe closer? Started by cleaning off the various grounds in the engine bay. Then followed the no start diagnoses in the service manual. Also checked timing to make sure it didn’t jump again. Timing is on point Everything checked out from this part, so as instructed moved onto the ignition system. Got spark on cylinders 2 & 4, but no spark on 1 & 3 , spark plugs on 1 & 3 were wet with fuel, not sure if thats because i tested 2 & 4 first. Also don’t know if a plug would spark if its wet. So said No for spark on all cylinders, and moved down the list. Voltage was good for all coils , same as resistance for ground and wiring. Step #6 is where it got tricky for me. I am using a cheap harbor freight multimeter. I set the ohm/resistance setting to 2000k and started testing. Cylinder 1 , 2 and 4 has no response and the meter stayed at 1 as if its not touching anything. Cylinder 3 however read between 2 and 3. And when i changed the setting to 200k it was closest to 2.2 i’m not sure how to really interpret this test. But i swapped the connectors between cylinder 1 and 3. Just the connectors while ignition Coil stayed in. And the 2.2 reading is now on cylinder 1, and cylinder 3 became like 2 and 4. So i thought hmmm, maybe the ignition coil is bad, so i put the connector on a coil pack i had laying around, which i believe was bad and i didnt trash it yet. When i did that, the multimeter read the same for all 4, so i thought replace the coil quick and see if it makes a difference. Did that, and no luck. Also tried to start with coil disconnected to see if there is any difference .. nope. Not sure what my next step should be. I dont know if the plugs were the issue and i would have spark if they werent wet, or if they somehow got worn out in 5k miles and thats why they aren’t sparking. Also don’t know what to make off the whole coil pack situation if theres anything to be made of it. Any insight would be appreciated, thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Leak down test showed that cylinders 1 & 3 seal up flawlessly at TDC, and changing the OCV didn’t make a difference, I also changed the cam sensor on the passenger side just incase and that didn’t make a difference. Still won’t start with both cam sensor plugged in. Was told to start following the cam sensor wiring to see if i have issue in that, as well as test all other wires. Friend also said my ECU could have gotten fried. One friend has a good set of B25 heads that he said i can use if my issue is in the heads. Which there could be a problem, but i’m trying to find the actual issue first before replacing the heads if heads need to be replaced. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Spent all day Saturday in the garage, and this is how it went. Started with retesting the pulse/signal for injectors. Confirmed that passneger side, cylinders 1 & 3 are getting a pulse, but 2 & 4 are not, 4 was said to be intermittent while cylinder 2 is confirmed no pulse.. nothing new. Followed the wiring around, testing resistance between one end of the wire till the other end to see if it has and shorts. There was no issues. Tested the wire for pulse , there wasn’t any. Went to the ecu, and tested the ecu for pulse, the ecu sometimes takes a while of cranking then will start sending a pulse, other times it won’t send a pulse at all. When we saw the signal, we thought we are losing it somewhere in the wire and ran a wire from the connector to the injector, that didnt help, which made us test the ecu’s injector signal again. So i was like damn, ECU Is bad, asked a friend who knows more than me about subarus, if he has an ecu that would work, he is like yah i do but you can’t just saw the ecu, u have to do the immobilizer and all that. So i explained to him the issue, he said your cam signals are shit. I Asked if a bad cam sensor could cause all of this, and he said yes. So i go on, and unplug the cam sensor to see if it makes any difference. And after struggling it did start, but ran like shit, and needed help to stay alive. This is a video my friend took of it when it started. So i thought thats a confirmation that my sensor is bad, went out grab a new sensor, swapped it out, and redid the timing, at this point it almost seemed like it was off by 2 teeth. Timing all fixed, cam sensor on driver side replaced.. no start. Unplugged the cam sensor, and it starts,runs better than before but srill rough, doesn’t need help with gas like before, so obviously fixing the timing helped, but the issue is still there. The same friend that directed me to the cam signal, told me to look into the hole and see if theres any damage on the cams since theres 4 valleys that the sensor reads off that tells it when to fire the injectors. He said since the car started without the sensor plug, its good news cause it kind of confirms the issues isnt anything past the cams/heads. He said there might be some damage or something that only letting oil pressure go to one side and stick the avcs advance. This is when i realized that the driver side head is the head that i reused an OCV or AVCS solenoid, while the other side i had a brand new one. So swapped the OCV’s around to see if the issue follows. The car still wont start, unplugged the cam sensor on the passenger side, it did start and run much better, still rough, then there was a tap/knock sound... as my friend said “metal on metal” and we shut it off instantly after we heard that sound. It didnt sound like a rod knock, more like a periodic tap/knock. We drove over to my friends place to pickup another OCV to see if that was the issue, since swapping them over did make a difference so i assumed the issue followed, also grabbed a leak down tester. I leak down tested both cylinders on the driver side ( 2 & 4 ) and it seems like they sealed up flawlessly when i hold the piston at TDC. Spark plug from cylinder 2 was black. And smelled like fuel, cylinder 4 was less black/burnt. I am going to leak down test cylinder’s 1 & 3, as well as put in the other OCV that i have, and see if it will fix the issue or not. My friend said its probably something in the heads like a stuck open valve and will need some head work, but the leak down test said otherwise. Still though, the sound we heard was very scary. But if it was caused by the assumed bad OCV, it will now be on the passenger side which i have yet to test. I’ve been busy with school work all day, and will likely be busy with school work all week, so probably wont get to work on it till Friday or Saturday. Would love to hear your guy’s opinions and thoughts about this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Did fix the timing yesterday, which made things better, but still have the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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