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VdubaRoo

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About VdubaRoo

  • Birthday December 18

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    2009 Legacy 3.0r

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  1. Check the flange where the manifold is attached to the block. They can crack right in the middle of the flange. If you're lucky maybe only the gasket because the exhaust manifold heat slightly warped it from the intense heating and cooling. That's the only spot that would change starting the car stone cold to op temp. Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk
  2. GOOGLE Subaru outback rear axle replacement, YouTube, Mr Subaru. Videos work better than words. It's great you want to do your own work...but if you download the FSM, it will save you a lot of time. If you're going do your own work, make sure you have the CORRECT tools for the job. I hope you got a new 32mm axle nut, I think torque spec is around 140 ft/lbs and stake it with a punch so it won't back off. You aren't supposed to torque the nut with the full weight of the car (it's bad for the wheel bearing). Pop the center cap off the wheel, hand tight your luggage nuts, and let the car down enough to get some grab off the ground....that's how you should have taken it off. Really hope you got a torque wrench, because you need it. Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk
  3. You want your aftermarket cooler post radiator. It sounds like you mean a thermostatic bypass valve on the cooler since a pressure bypass doesn't make any sense. This thread has had me question the factory set up of direction from the transmission and return. Find the factory service manual for your vehicle. Thermostatic cooler bypass only makes sense post factory flow from the radiator. I'm not even sure you can monitor ATF temperature via the ECM. Radiator coolant temp stays between 195f and 203f. Cooler isn't better in the engine and the transmission will not shift to s# until it warms up to a point. Too cold isn't good and too hot isn't either. Hope it works out. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  4. I wanted to post my personal experience with modification 2009 Subaru 3.0r. Subaru designates it non sport, wheel size 17" factory rims. I invested a lot of time reading other people's takes on their changes and what they perceived as the results. I chose to look for a better dynamics without sacrificing daily driver comfort. Factory stock settings are engineered to function together with full understanding of function properly with the entire car. i.e. suspension, brakes, engine. Bottom line, you pay what you get for. Quality costs money, period. I could afford a strut spring design, mild drop, progressive spring. And no they aren't Koni yellow. There have been lots of threads about them, and why waste your time reading another one. I gutted the entire front, each side works independently and experience the largest dynamics under function. It is more mechanically sound to substitute suspension designs from other Subaru configurations. They are tried and tested and play well if you consider the entire design. As a general rule of thumb aftermarket parts that are look alike to OEM are almost never better. A CEO for Denso at a Michigan plant was questioned about making Tier 1 OE aftermarket parts and his comment was direct fit, try to market a broader application, they aren't quality control tested to meet the same extremely low failure of OEM, and it possibly could be acceptable to achieve 90% (this number was just a example of broader tolerances). They are the Japanese version of Bosch. Lots of aftermarket try to reverse engineer, so choose your manufacturer wisely. That's probably the biggest reason reading Subaru boards. Installation...I shouldn't probably say anything but maybe it will help someone... I had a chance encounter with a gentleman and made a comment on his Ford f350. Looking at my Legacy, as proud as I am it's a two year run, I'm financially invested in parts, that it's now a secret between me and God. Referred me to a local mechanic he used for his truck amicable to customer supplied parts and amount for his service. Well... For the work he performed, it was a deal. But sometimes, again, you get what you pay for. It was a hole in the wall...but I think the gifted independent specialty mechanic might have died by the hands of Google. Got a box full of unopened OEM back, with complete control arm assembly that supposed to look like JDM spec b...strut/ top hats, tires tie rods...done with correct parts. And, oh, BTW, you need to get it aligned... Huh, another problem. Not sure why, but you got a spring making noise... More concerned that I was plowing the tires off I never looked at the work. Alignment guy avoided me after the alignment. I would too. Sorry but your caster is . 5 degree across, and your numbers just got worse pulling it in. I guess he took the pic of the snapped sway bar link for me to figure it out. I opened the hood later and WTF? No need to look further, there's no spherical washer on one side. For those who care. You are creating a torsional force between the piston rod of your strut without any bearing it meets to pivot. No need to inspect bearing, the mount rubber pushed past what it is meant to handle. Those piston rods don't spin around in the strut assembly BTW. You will figure that part out later when they prematurely fail. Hope this helps someone. Good luck. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  5. I'm not sure how the 2.5 exhaust comes off the manifold and routes back to your midpipe. If the leak was big enough to let outside air near the post cat 02 sensor, the extra oxygen would throw off the downstream voltage and change the A/F trims. I have a H6 engine and I know the right and left bank function separately. The nice well balanced boxer engine can't adjust the fuel trims to cancel out misfire on one bank. Probably different with the 2.5 with a single timing belt. Downstream aensor tries to regulate temp in the cat though and exhaust leak big enough and close enough could burn up a cat. You're getting it fixed though so it's gonna only be the problem you found. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  6. I jus did the rubber inlet, outlet hose from the ATF to the metal hardline that leads to the radiator and remote spin on. The OP even has the orientation of the hot pressure side metal line from the 5eat ATF and non pressurized cold return inlet feed backwards. A pic from the factory service manual confirmed that. The pumped outlet ATF hard line has a hex head bolt where it meets the ATF housing. I also believe the pump side outlet hard line is always the lowest external metal line. The metal return line is higher and the charge port (the metal line for the dipstick} is parallel directly besides it. But because the cold/hot and orientation of flow was opposite from the start, it would follow the correct path. But if you take 5 minutes and disconnect the hose line from the radiator, you will either have a flow out of the rubber hose or it flowing out of the radiator and all over the bottom of the car and ground. I don't think there is any suction for the return side, it's the ATF oil pump pressure. My point of this whole rant. The metal ATF outlet line is the left (or closest to the front of the vehicle} and inlet pipe is directly to the right of it. The entire system is supposed to operate between 153-176 F I believe. So I would be very careful about a different cooling set up. It seems the 5eat has a lot of electronics that rely on correct temp range for it to function properly. I thought fluid flow and pressure are what makes an auto tranny work. The tranny adapts electronically somewhat, so it could be very hard to notice that it's not happy. JMO. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  7. Lol, that's something I think might be possible. When I bought mine as second owner from the Subaru dealership, the level on the dipstick was definitely over the full mark. The salesman tried saying the dealership had replaced it and tried to write it off that I wasn't reading it right or I checked on a flat surface. Maybe that's part of dealer protocol. 0w20 might be useful to improve fuel economy and used it for marketing purposes. If I was out of warranty, I'd experiment using different weight oil and just keep away from the brands that don't agree with Subaru boxer engines. If I was under warranty, I'd drain a bit out before they finished their consumption test to make it fail. I don't see how they consider oil consumption normal on a newer engine that hasn't become loose.as some do, when they get older. I'd ask them if Porsche has a consumption test on their boxer engines too and see what they say. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  8. I didn't buy the yellows for two reasons. Having to gut your stock assembly on the front was more work than I wanted if I was paying good money for an aftermarket upgrade. I toyed with the idea if Bilstein b6, or b8 because the stroke is designed for a lowered sport spring. With a Koni, the shell of front strut is sized to fit in the stock strut and couldn't possibly benefit from a larger volume of oil or a thicker high tensile housing to accommodate the higher demand with it being a sport strut. It's hard for me to wrap my head around how it could possibly last anywhere near a KYB. I decided to be a guinea pig and try Tein endurapro plus which are also twin tube adjustable dampening. They aren't rebuildable, but I'm not sure what you are supposed to throw on your car with the Koni yellow waiting on a rebuild. I recently saw a new KYB sport strut but is only marketed in Japan. It's a shame Tokico didn't keep making the sport strut I've read some Subies could use. I hope you get your strut rebuilt by Koni quickly. Too bad they don't just have rebuilds in stock where you just send yours in to be rebuilt for the next person who needs one. My car is a daily driver with no back up. I dream my legacy handled anywhere near a stock BMW 5 series with stock sport suspension. They just seem to be a soft, unresponsive, and not as predictable as I had hoped before buying. Engine mods seem to be where they shine. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  9. I'm glad this post was added because I just replaced my radiator, along with all the ATF oil cooler hoses. The flow chart I found showed ATF fluid exiting the tranny from the rubber hose furthest to the rear of the car, on the tranny, and following the hard line to the front of the vehicle. The longer molded hose routes across the vehicle to the passenger side still "hot". This was the routing my 09 legacy 3.0r had prior to removal. AS A SIDE NOTE: all my hoses are OEM and the end of the long hose(passenger side) where it connects to the radiator has a RED marking on the end of the hose. Most of the OEM rubber cooling hoses have color markings, sometimes along with an arrow or letter. They can still be FUBAR'd really easily (the heater hoses... Top hose from firewall connects to the lower port on the engine block). 100% mark your hoses prior to removal... I think paint pens are easiest. I find I start to forget things the longer I work on a car on a nice hot day. I have seen the flow chart to and from radiator shown both ways online. Apparently the Tribeca flow IS the opposite on the front side (radiator and external ATF filter). Anyone with stock PLEASE HELP with hose plumbing on the external mount. I have it entering the lower port and exiting the upper port. I found that direction on a factory schematic, and not sure if it's universal, 4eat,5eat, not generation or model specific. Here was the original radiator BTW. That was the trash on the backside of the condenser, front side of radiator with upper and lower packing intact. It was still maintaining temp on the short drives I still made before the fix. I think it is a total waste of money to modify any of your engine cooling if the engine is stock. All aluminum double radiators, modified engine oil coolers, and ATF coolers or different temp thermostats. Only makes sense pushing more power and track conditions. Maybe I'm wrong... Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  10. Why not just disengage the crank sensor so the vehicle won't catch and pressurize the system without full crank case pressure? I agree [emoji817] with not starting a virgin system that isn't broke in and has residual lube from the last start. Ideally, a system would always be in that scenario. Change your oil with a Subaru with a top mount oil filter is another situation you momentarily starve the system until the filter is primed and pressurized. I think your system is spot on in your situation. It would feel like someone scratching their hands down a chalkboard knowing you put 1000 mi wear in the first minute of your shiny new system. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  11. I think extreme motor sports carries after market quality parts, a lot geared towards people looking for "upgrade" performance. If I have the website correct, there are a ton of aftermarket exhaust set ups for 2.5l Subaru's. I only mention it because, to a point, we pay for a quality OEM part because it says Subaru on it. I wouldn't cheap out on what your replacement mid pipe is fabricated from or the welds. I know you aren't looking to create more flow or less restrictions to the system. The bottom level buy in products are basically just quality replacement parts. I am militaristic about OEM parts with a lot of my car. Your not going to affect the integrity of the mechanics with a cheap exhaust pipe, but they constantly heat and cool and exposed to the environment as much as any part of the vehicle I know. If the car is in it's later stages in life, go for the bargain brand. Otherwise, consider it a 5 to 10 year investment you won't have to second guess as the undercarriage naturally ages over the years. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  12. It's great to hear people post their maintenance experience regardless if it has been posted before. Everyone's experience can be a little different since where we live and keep our cars can make a huge difference on how easily things go. I got an 09 legacy H6 and the engine definitely sits much tighter in the engine bay. Having smaller hands is also a major bonus here. I'm just getting the back plugs done now after trying to go at it without a low profile ratchet and a cheap 3 inch extension that sucked. Seeing hits on google of people jacking the engine up a few inches makes me happy that smarter working people share the better way. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  13. I started it up and put a rag around the muffler and ran it idle, 2000 rpm, 3500 rpm. I made sure I didn't from cold to op temp. When I went to check the rag stuck around the muffler, there was water evident on the ground. There was no smell to the rag. Seemed when cold to hot there was more condensation. For whatever reason, I had went to the other tail pipe to confirm (yes I know it's not a straight flow back from each header). Small amount of condensation while hot. Does it run rich when cold hence the presentation of more condensation on the ground? Water vapor is made when fuel is combusted but should there be any noticable presence from the tail pipe? Never tried to pull any codes from ECU. Is there a log history with a generic scanner at auto parts store? Will a mechanic who doesn't have software for Subaru but has a decent scan tool pull codes from all computer modules? I really just need to drop the radiator in when I get it. Unfortunately, I'm gonna pay someone to do the suspension and tranny mount. I don't have the tools and it's got to be the dirtiest job anyway. I'll be looking at the oil and coolant when I drop radiator and replace O ring from engine oil cooler. Not sure that's any conclusive indicator. I would think if anything it could be a pin hole leek into the sleeve that might even seal up when at op temp. Definitely might drop the mystery coolant conditioner in with new radiator. No boil or bubble in water expansion tank. Coolant always at mouth of radiator all the time. Coolant does draw back into radiator from hot to cold. I'm gonna be throwing in a new set of plugs also. Would a plug show any sign if there would be any coolant leak into cylinder? I know the H6 isn't known for HG issues. I guess if no one answers back to the post I'll rest easy with that because I have lost sleep for the last 3 nights worrying about a what if. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  14. I read the 3.0R/limited had higher ground clearance. Think GT spec b had the same. I'm kinda jealous the limited comes with Bilstein front struts standard. Really think that upgrade would probably keep the internals of the CV axles less likely to wear. Maybe a stiffer sway bar. The boots on my salvage are original and don't show signs of age. I'm gonna pull boot and just regrease. The chick that was original owner must knew she was gonna buy a new one for a while. LCA rear bushing looks dangerous, ball joints don't even need pry bar to see play, kinda just holding pinch bolt to castle nut. Imner tie rods rubber is falling out. Just hope struts have held up. Caught the coolant leak slow leak top/bottom of radiator. It was a Denso. Gonna put stock rad to replace. All new coolant lines, engine and ATF cooler lines, oil cooler gasket. Considering replacing metal up pipe from water pump... Gonna do heater core hoses too. I don't truly understand how corrosive wrong coolant is to system over the long run. Coolant flow is so key to these, it makes me wonder why anyone would ignore proper maintenance. Don't think tranny ever been drained so drop pan, strainer filter, figured I'd do spin on. Not any noticable preventative done by original owner. Somehow has a Dayco serp belt, think AC pump might have seized, it's Dayco but it said Japan on it. Starter is Dayco USA Tennessee... guess was replaced. I knew it had an external coolant leak when I bought it, but all the dried coolant on insulation on the hood has me questioning how original radiator went. I'm gonna find out if it has any small internal HG coolant leak tomorrow. I can't imagine I could find any independent mechanic who do it for less than 12-1500 to fix very early so doesn't wear engine prematurely. I found a shop in Asheville NC, real small shop, no real overhead that would be where I will take it for anything EZ30R specific. PLEASE tell me how you found a 3.0R 09 limited with so few miles that low price? Sounds like the deal no one could refuse. Must be private owner. At this point, with all the money dropping in mine, the only mod will be taking the 17" six spoke, sand blast them and paint dark gold. I seen the same rim on a GT spec b, I honestly think it's the most agressivle styled rim. Maybe if I had deeper pockets, a ram air intake, raptor headers and drop the 3rd cat, open exhaust and have it tuned would be about the cheapest performance upgrade I can think of totally NA. All the other mods, semi closed head, turbo, intercooler, or a ridiculous supercharger are a dream I don't know how other 3.0 owners take on. They would become track cars and wouldn't want to drive it and add anymore miles than necessary. I wish I could experience one though. Post up some exterior/interior pics of yours. Is it a southern car by any chance? I think you found, for the money, a rare find. Just wondering exactly how it is optioned out. I honestly don't like Subaru navigation and that space could be used for a much better purpose. Wish a 6 speed box was an option. Really think it would put more torque right off the line, which is only gripe I have.about factory set up. I love smooth power band over 2k and car probably would be better suited for a rolling run. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  15. Im starting to question buying used 100k, no maintenance records (it was a trade at original dealer). I'm temporary in TN and didn't know a decent local mechanic and conned into taking right down the road to pep boys for a pre buy inspection. Actually paid $90 to have them put it up on lift, and pull wheels to look at anything. Got told I needed both CV axle and sway bar linkage. Never considered them touching the car, I just personally had no way to get under car and the boxer engine with the plastic under cover don't reveal much top side. The engine runs good, no slip or hard shift... but I got it up on jack stands and pulled the engine cover to see I need to go back to pep boys after I fix what's broke with used parts to have a meltdown in front of them and letting them know I need a refund for the free ride the parts changer had driving it (he was even playing the stereo when he drove it, LMAO. The lower control arms... Rear bushings, ball joints, and outer tie rods are so bad I'm surprised something hasn't already catastrophically failed while driving. It had one OEM axle past the point of just rebooting. Other axle is mystery brand but no obvious damage...not sure on the pair of axle they were pushing but their mark up on their part quote was like going OEM. Also missed the Denso radiator first owner put in seeping coolant top and bottom at plastic aluminum housing... Packing material makes a great sponge I noticed. Oil cooler leaking at seal and oil leaking at oil drain plug. I wasn't really happy that radiator was replaced, aftermarket and doubt green coolant was aluminum friendly. I got $1800 in OEM parts for things broke, and 100000 maintenance... I'm gonna pay someone else to do suspension and axle. I'm starting to question what I bought myself into. Tires need replaced ASAP but I'll just drive when it's sunny and not agressivle with current rubber. Am I in for further punishment? Tranny must been overfilled when the original radiator was replaced. It's over the top of the top full hot when it's sitting cold. Yes, everything from internal strainer, screw on ATF filter, ATF oil cooler lines are being done immediately. I hope when I drop the pan, the magnet doesn't look too bad or lots of build up on the pan metal. The steeler changed the oil (lol, and a full tank of gas), but Subaru tech overfilled the engine oil! I'm starting to build my own conspiracy theory they "topped EVERYTHING off" so I could come back for a new car since even Subaru sales are ridiculously low at the moment. I just totally don't trust anything about the original dealer selling the same car, again, and they didn't know I should have got a roll back to take it home. The salesman did say jokingly when I was buying that here in Tennessee they can sell you a car with 3 wheels legally. Think that's an ironic comment now I was under it. The good out of the bad... there are almost no seal leaks or weeping. Minor Cam cover and bottom of timing chain cover. But I did see trace of oil at one head gasket. I think I would drive the car into a brick wall if I needed a head gasket in 10000 miles. Or part it off to bail me out of the what I remember previously owning a 130k BMW that got totalled out right after it was [emoji817]. If I thought I wasn't gonna roll it to 200k I might have Rock Auto economy part replaced. Maybe sold it off at 150k and been a learning experience. My major concern... I have never checked the coolant or exhaust for hydrocarbons. Really never been behind the car when started cold and smelled for coolant or water vapor...I don't think the car salesman would have been so cooperative. Can anyone please give me their wisdom and knowledge about how the EZ30R engine holds up if you blew out the radiator and just pushed it until every light on the dash was flashing? The first owner was a younger female. I noticed she had brought it to Sears for maintenance repair the known records. Pretty sure they made a good paycheck from her repairs but she wasn't maintenance friendly considering I don't know how she was driving it with the suspension blown out like that. It could have been that 3 wheel unicorn for her trade. I know it sounds like I'm trying to get someone to read some tea leaves. Is there anything I should do to get the most out of whatever life this car holds? Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
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