sperry

I'm moving to Portland at the end of the month... let me know if you want a paying customer's car to do this to. The catch is that I can't do the 6MT swap unless I can get someone to buy my WRX sans the 6MT it would be donating to my OBXT.

If I were in that business, I wouldn't warranty anything that requires the layman to engineer and fabricate an oil line filter kit based on adapting another kit. Either require a specific kit, warranty it anyway (because perhaps the newer cars don't have the oil starvation issues that the older cars have?), or say "sorry, no warranty until someone comes out with a good 2010+ line kit". I'd hate to see people that aren't comfortable or capable trying to build their own oil feed line just to get a warranty if the risk of screwing up the turbo because the line isn't right is higher than the risk of using the OEM line. Again, it comes back to the quality of the OEM line on the 2010s. I haven't been paying attention since I've got a 2009... but I haven't heard of the newer cars having turbo failures. In fact, I haven't heard of frequent issues since the switch to the vf46 in 2008, compared to the nightmare people have with the vf40s. Is the oil line really something people with newer cars should be concerned about? Sure, it's a good idea to have a nice high-flow serviceable in-line filter on any turbo... but is it as risky on the gen5 cars as it is on the gen4?

Do the newer cars even have the same problems as the older cars with the turbo feed line clogging? Seems like a silly requirement if the 2010+ cars have a completely redesigned feed line, especially if there's no bolt on filtered feed line available yet in the aftermarket. Denying warranty coverage to someone who's unwilling or unable to reengineer the existing line kit to fit a newer car sounds a little harsh.

Also, are there any issues with VDC? Or is all that run via the ABS system? In other words, the VDC system doesn't hook into the 5MT gearboxes at all does it? Maybe just the neutral position switch (which runs to the ECU)? I think on the 4EAT/5EAT gearboxes, the VDC system can actuate the center diff solenoids to control rear wheel power delivery... but since the 5MT's don't have that, I assume the VDC on the manual cars is entirely part of the ABS system.

Bryan (or anyone else for that matter), have you seen high EGT's on the TD05-20g LGT setups? I ran a TD05-20g on my STi swapped time-trials WRX for a while years ago, and it was an incredible blend of low-lag and high output, but on long pulls I'd see 1800+F EGTs. During long track sessions, it was hot enough that stuff like the radiator fan housings and plastic timing covers on the motor were melting. A friend of mine more recently ran the same turbo on his STi for autocross. Again, it was a great blend of spool and power, but the small-ish exhaust housing apparently lends to high EGTs... he eventually decided just to got back to stage 2 on his stock STi turbo due to the high temps and a fuel pump issue he no longer wanted to try to solve. At the time, we didn't realize that the EGTs were just a side effect of the particular turbo, but when my friend sent off his request for an E-tune to Clark Turner for a TD05-20g map, Clark's response was "whoa, that turbo is going to have high ETGs!". I'm wondering if the LGT style TD05-20g turbo will have the same temperature issues as the WRX/STi style turbo. A 20g is likely larger than I want for my outback, but knowing how "in the sweet spot" that turbo was for making early torque without giving up tons up top, I might consider it if doesn't exhibit the same EGT issues we noticed on the other cars.

IMO, the "correct" solution here is to figure out the proper way to machine the LGT trailing arms so you can simply bolt in the '08+ STi rear hub/bearing assemblies. But that assumes you're also able to just bolt on STi backing plates, ABS sensors, e-brake bits, rotors, calipers, and everything just lines up. Oh, and that you're running an R180 rear-end with STi axles. Then up front, you would just use STi knuckles/bearings/hubs and get STi lower mounts for whatever coilovers you're running, since most coilovers are available in various flavors for the WRX, LGT, or STi. I've got a WRX with an STi motor/6MT swap I keep thinking I should part out, then steal the 6MT to swap into my OBXT. But it would be nice to be able to also swap to 5x114.3 with the 6MT, if I could do it by simply buying new STi rear hubs and machining my existing rear trailing arms instead of paying $700+ for Spec-B rear axles. You'd think a couple of hours of labor at the machine shop and new hubs wouldn't be much more than the cost of the axles, and you'd end up with the much better bearings and better wheel selection. But I'm thinking the headache of sorting all this out isn't worth the better bearings. I'd love to see some before and after photos from Antho303T's conversion to know what sort of machine work they did on their conversion.

Yeah I checked them out. Unless I missed something, they're all with the full TBE on the car which I'm just not willing to do on a daily driver. I've seen the dyno charts for STi's running just a DP, but that's a different turbo, heads, and even the stock CBE on the STi probably flows more than the LGT mid-pipe, so it's hard to make a useful comparison.

I'm at 4200' altitude, so I'm in a similar boat to you. However, E85 is a PITA. It's not readily available at my local stations, and I don't want to be looking for a station that carries it on a road trip. If this were my track car, I would consider it (I used to run 100 octane in my WRX time trials car before it went to $9/gal)... but for a daily driver, I need to stick to plain old crappy CA 91. My current plan is to run stage 2 on my vf46 with a Cobb DP and AVO TMIC, and everything else stock. Cobb AP for EM, and I'll probably touch-up the OTS map with AccessTuner-Race. But I'm still interested in seeing the results for bumping up to a really mild stage 3, with the addition of a 16g or 18g turbo, injectors, and a fuel pump. Certainly, I don't expect to get the same numbers other folks get on those turbos with full TBE, intakes, TGV deletes, EWG, etc. But I'm wondering if I can get to just under 300/300 and still have a quiet car with stock-like lag... just with more mid-range power. I've got an STi-swapped WRX and a Miata for hoonery... I want my OBXT to be comfortable.

Is that in response to my question? That doesn't help much, since I'm asking about a different turbo, different exhaust, and different fuel. Also... how did you get away with E85 on stock injectors (even with a fuel pump)? Doesn't E85 need like twice the flow over pumpgas due to the lower energy density requiring a bunch more fuel?

I would kill to see the dyno chart for a BNR 16g w/ just a TMIC, downpipe, injectors and fuel pump on 91. That's as far as I'm willing to go with supporting mods because I'd like to keep the car relatively stock/quiet. I might be willing to also do a mid-pipe if I can keep it quiet enough with a straight-through resonator or something. If the torque is around 280-290 ftlbs and comes in early, and the horsepower is over 275, I probably wouldn't bother with an 18g. Anyone running something like that?

I'm not limiting myself to stock injectors or fuel pump. I just wasn't going to upgrade them unless there's a need, simply because it's just one more thing to have to tune for. Is there no need for injectors on the 16g? What sort of power curve should I expect on the 16g vs the stock vf46, assuming just the downpipe and TMIC? All the dyno charts I'm finding tend to have more work done than I'm planning. I guess, with all the other stock restrictions in the intake, and my low target power, the TGVs probably won't be worth much. I just figured they're relatively cheap (it's mostly just labor), and you can't tell they've been touched unless you've got a sharp eye. Oh, and I'll be running 91 octane pump gas on this. Not interested in E85, or eventually going to E85. It's just too much of a PITA to get it where I live to bother on a daily driver.

Quick question for you guys that have experience with these turbos... I'm looking at a mild upgrade to my '09 OBXT, however I want to stay very close to stock in terms of supporting mods. I figure I'm looking at a downpipe, a TMIC, TGV deletes, and a reflash to support a mild turbo upgrade. My goal would be 275-300 awhp with matching or better torque. I'm explicitly *not* planning on an intake or exhaust except for the downpipe, as I want the car to remain stock sounding. This is my daily driver and I just want it to be a bit more fun... plus I want to avoid trashing the clutch and gearbox with tons of power. What do you think about the BNR TD05-18G for my goals? How would it compare to the vf52? (I ask because the vf52 is known to work with stock-like exhaust). How's the lag compared to the stock vf46 or the vf52? I would like stock-like (or better) lag of course, but I'm not sure the BNR EVO16g will get me to the power levels I'm shooting for considering the limitations of the stock intake/uppipe/cat-back that I'd like to keep. On the other hand, I'm happy to trade away top-end to avoid bad lag. Again, the car is a daily driver, so having little lag and smooth power delivery is more important than ultimate power or top-end. What sort of fueling mods would I need to support this? Deatchwerks 650cc injectors and fuel pump? How far will the stock 560cc injectors and pump get me? Any recommendations for specific parts? I just scored a deal on an AVO TMIC, so that's picked out, and I'm leaning towards the AVO downpipe and fuel pump, though they seem a little pricey, because they look like well made gear. I'm coming from an '02 WRX with and STi swap, so I'm not totally up on what's out there for the LGT/OBXT. Thanks guys!