poconoracing

Rockauto.com NGK Coil - $69.79 ea

Posting this in case anyone else comes across this problem My 2010 GT - 134k miles would suddenly stall, like someone hit a kill switch. Completely randomly, with no consistency on the time run, temp, weather, etc. No CEL, no other symptoms, car would crank but not fire. Come back it it later and it would sometimes fire right up. Diagnostics verified crank signal, fuel injector pulse but NO spark at any of the 4 coils. At the coil plug had power, ground but no control signal at any of the coils. Thinking the drivers in the ECM went bad, I went after the ECM behind the dash. I verified powers and the main grounds. I was just about to condemn the ECM when I noticed on the ignition wiring diagram the ECM has grounds that run through the Engine harness back to the grounds under the hood on the drivers side of the intake. Turns out they run through PINS 34,35,36,37 and 40 of the large engine connector. They are the larger pins in a left to right row in the center of the plug. In my case #35 had been bent in slightly and was breaking contact intermittently. using a dental pick i bent it back into place and no issue since. No one has touched that plug in better than 2 years, really odd failure. But nothing better than a cost free repair Edited to add the wiring diagram from the FSM for the ignition. ignition.pdf

For you guys that PMd me for them, check your inbox. If you didn't get my message let me know

Wouldn't they then get updated? The accessport manager phones home when you launch it. It doesnt matter really anyway, doing some more poking around those are all for the 2010 GT. The WRX files are in a separate folder

Here is what I have. DM me if it'll help you Two of the below are for a 2008 WRX. I'm not sure how you would tell them apart **update, they are all for the 2010 GT - the wrx files are in a separate folder

You have a test light or a voltmeter? Check for 12v at the big red wire. should be hot all the time assuming it is, have someone get in and try to crank the car (clutch in, key turned to start) and check for 12v at the small terminal wire. If you have 12v there with the key in crank and clutch in, replace the starter. If you dont have 12V at the sense wire ... check the clutch switch and the starter relay

Mobil 1 5w40 Turbo Diesel Truck is a close equivalent to T6 You are looking for a synthetic diesel oil with API Rating CJ4

I'm in NE PA, similar temps to OP. I've had moderate success with AMSoil Severe Gear 75w90. Better in first, still not perfect. Car has been hard shifting in the cold since I bought it.

Believe or not ... my forester appears to have had the same issue with the starter. Swapped it out a month ago with a new one from Autozone. Not one no start since..... Thanks for sharing.

Agree talking to the dealer is worthwhile. If no luck there I woudl try to determined if the short is internal or external to the radio. Disconnect the battery Pull it out of the dash and disconnect it Put the fuse back in and reconnect the battery If the fuse blows with the radio disconnected the short is in the harness .... start with the connector and work your way toward the fuse panel. Look specifically at places where the harness comes in contact with the dash. If the fuse doesn't blow, the short is very likely internal to the radio - replace it - junkyard or aftermarket

FYI the issue you likely have is the parking brake calibration. After changing the parking brake pads you need to force the system to calibrate via SSM or a high end scan tool. Basically what it does is exercise the PB a few times to find when it’s on and when it’s off. If you check with your local garages, I do believe the snap on verus has the functionality to make the car run the calibration. If not you’ll need access to Subaru Select monitor. My son in law did the same thing and I had to fix it via SSM3 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

134k on it. front control arm bushings were shot so i needed t do some work anyway. i went with the stock 13-14 setup because i live on a dirt road up a mountainside. i cant reasonably lower the car as much as i would like to. the car handles well. much flatter in the corners. much less boaty/accord like. downside is my stock springs were obviously pretty tired. the car is about 1/2 in higher all the way around. only been a few days, we will see how she setttles in.

13-14 replacement KYB's and 13-14 springs. Also did Mevotech lower control arms w/ solid bushings. After alignment, car handles well. definitely stiffer in the corners. Only concern is the front wheel gap is a bit bigger than it was. hoping the springs settle some over the next couple weeks.

Bought a front wheel bearing .... cause the wheel it probably shouldn't move 1/2 an inch..... Going to need to blue wrench tomorrow to convince those bolts to turn. Oddly it did not make a sound, no groan, whine or any indication it was bad.

Still have this?