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Blue Fox

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Blue Fox last won the day on January 16

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  • Location
    Durango, CO
  • Car
    2005 Outback XT Manual
  • Interests
    Off Road and Subarus

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  1. I am needing the factory roof rails if you still have the shell (rails that go the length of the roof, not the crossbars) Also interested in the front strut bar.
  2. THESE HAVE SOLD I have a full set of Racecomp Engineering Tarmac 1 coilovers for 05-09 Legacy along with the forged front lowering camber plates. In my opinion, these were transformative. They ride better than stock Bilstein dampers from a Spec B, and have the ability to really firm up for spirited driving. I’ve had these in autocross sessions, as well as multi-thousand mile road trips and they are fantastic. They’re made for Racecomp by KW, and show no signs of wear as I’ve kept them in great shape. Milage: 15,000 miles, mostly highway and road trips. Some autocross events, but no pot hole hits. They are in excellent condition. Reason for selling: My Outback has been transformed into a full race build Gridlife Touring Cup car, so a custom set of road-racing coilovers to meet my racing needs has been ordered. Price: $1500 Shipped to lower 48, less if picked up (Durango, Coloardo) Original purchase price for these was $2489 shipped. These come assembled and ready to bolt on, and with coil-over jackets. I will be uploading some more pictures of the coilovers as soon as I can. Pictures of the car shows the height they are currently set to. If interested, let me know, feel free to ask questions.
  3. Congrats on finding them! And yes, without the strips in the bars to fill in the adjustment slots on the underside, they do like to whistle. You can also cover these with tape if you ever lose the strips themselves.
  4. Hello, forgive me if it’s already common knowledge, but my search hasn’t come up with anything. I have recently swapped my 5-speed Outback XT from its stock 4.44 transmission and rear diff to a low-mileage Legacy GT 4.11. Main reason is that I wanted to run smaller diameter tires since the car is lowered and I’m getting rubbing issues, and the 4.44 transmission has recently blown up. My plan was to swap over the 4.11 and run a LGT size tire so I can not only run a smaller tire, but also have the speedometer show correctly, but it isn’t. It’s off by about the same as the 4.44 was with the smaller tire, leading me to believe there is a box or control unit that needs to also be swapped from an LGT. I believe this may be something to due with a BCM? that needs to be swapped over from a Legacy GT? Is this the right track of thinking for anyone who may know?
  5. The information you are asking for is literally contained about 4 posts up from this one. An Estate is a wagon, you need the crossbars for the wagon, which would be the Mont Blanc MB3747-B-02 Black 47" Gripper Load Bar Set. I regularly carry kayaks on mine.
  6. Wheels are Konig 17x7.5. 48 offset, and run 15mm H&R wheel spacers with extended studs. Tires are Hankook iCept 215/60 R17 winters. They're decent (especially for the price I got them for, $51/each), but they’re no Blizzaks. Once these wear out, I’ll be going back to Blizzaks or Hakkkappppelllllllllliitaaaas.
  7. Thanks! Finding the crossbars for the Legacy rails was a pain, but found them eventually from the Original manufacturer. The lip is some cheap one off eBay, an S204 replica I believe. The grille was a bit more involved. The middle wing section is from a Legacy grille that I then chopped up, and also chopped up my original Outback grille to make it. Lots of epoxy, cutting, sanding and filler, but think it came out nice.
  8. I'm not meaning to argue with anyone either, I just have strong opinions on the matter since I spent months chasing issues that the Legacy swap solved. Just trying to save people some headaches that I went through. But yes, if anyone is looking to lowering their Outback to stock Legacy height or lower, I would say the Legacy conversion is a 100% must to get the best ride and handling out of it.
  9. I noticed the improvement for everyday driving almost immediately. Car just felt "right" if that makes sense. Planted, no weird feelings in the suspension, no weird loading/unloading of the steering feel while going through a corner, nothing. Just felt like I expected it to, like a Spec B that a couple of my friends have. Which I was I was trying to emulate with mine. I live in a mountainous area, so curvy roads and spirited driving is a daily thing for me. I never had it on the track lowered with just the struts and springs since I never liked how it handled. Had it to a track once after the Legacy conversion and it handled like my friends' Spec B, though with a little more oversteer, which I preferred. Autocross, I took it to about 3 events (6 total race days) prior to Legacy conversion and absolutely hated how it handled when really pushing it. A few people there said it was an "uncompetitive car" and I was wasting my time with it. Another person said my problems were "classic Subaru". Once I did research, changed out all the bits to Legacy counterparts, it was like a light switch. I started shaving seconds off my times, and now in my 4th year of autocross, I'm usually winning Street Touring class (was STX, now STH with the new class rules) and currently have 18 first place event finishes. Often they get on the intercom systems between run groups to tell everyone that they're being beat by a station wagon in PAX time.
  10. You can't say "you will get basically nothing as a benefit" to someone who has lowered their Outback using both methods. There is a benefit. A big one. I first lowered mine with just struts and springs and chased so many problems with bump steer and roll center issues. The car didn't handle awful, but didn't handle correctly either. Dozens of alignments and adjustments didn't help, and participating in autocross events only magnified the handling deficiencies. I did a ton of research on this very site, and changed all the necessary components to their Legacy counterparts. The issues I was chasing all but disappeared, and fine tuning it further was a breeze. An Outback is just a lifted Legacy. Lowering an Outback without removing part of the "lift" is just a half-ass way of doing it in my opinion.
  11. You also need to remove the rear subframe spacers, front subframe spacers, and replaced the transmission cradle, steering u-joint, driveshaft, front control arm brackets, rear trailing arm brackets (and associated bolts) with the Legacy counterparts. This way you will have proper suspension geometry as if the car is a Legacy.
  12. Try to add some negative camber. Not only will your car handle a lot better, it’ll keep your shoulders from rubbing. Since I Autocross mine, I run fairly aggressive negative camber at -2.8 front, -2.3 rear. No rubbing issues, even with 245 tires. I don’t think you would need to go that drastic, but a little would be beneficial. These cars love negative camber. I’ve put 40k on my normal daily tires with this alignment and I have zero abnormal wear.
  13. Good luck. Hopefully you don’t have the acceleration vibration/wobble like every other aftermarket CV I’ve tried in the past.
  14. I haven't had much luck with aftermarket axles. CVJ Axles in Denver, Colorado rebuilds OEM axles, and they're phenomenal. I have been running them on my car for 2 years now. They're about $90 each shipped. You do need to ship them your old OEM core axles to keep the price at $90.
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