Subsandwich

Yeah. I'm glad the gates kit has the red gap tool thingy. I'm surprised Subaru didnt list an SST in the FSM for it

Maybe check the throttle body. Sometimes they get gummed up.

Thanks both, I'm guessing the the OP of the thread had an AT since none of the guides were present. Couldn't see much else in terms of pics except for the gnarly cam sprocket broken by the vice grip. But it's good to know that the guides are there and serve a purpose.

All jokes aside, did a timing belt change without completely reading the instructions. Thus result was a hard crank no start. I did a few other maintenance things while doing the timing belt, and after all the troubleshooting I figured I needed to see if I messed up the belt. This is what I was greeted with Being impatient, I decided to just go ahead and purchase a replacement belt from NAPA for $240. Yeah... Apparently the little red thingy in the Gates timing belt kit matters... And eye-balling it doesn't quite cut cleanly. Rather it grates the belt. Anywho, is there a reason for that belt guide bracket thingy? I've read other posts where people did timing belt changes and found the bracket missing.

Just did my timing belt today, MT LGT. While replacing the water pump it dawned on me, why not run an AT radiator on the MT cars, and run the oil cooler thru the Transmission Cooler portion of the radiator? Anybody else have this thought? I tried searching here and NASIOC but haven't found anything. I'm guessing it might take away from engine cooling capacity, but it would seem like a super easy "oil-cooler" upgrade.

Wanted to post this last year, but for those who want their lid to close, this is the hinge that's jacked up: Mine would only move with extreme manual force, even after oiling it up. There was metal-on-metal grinding. Not sure what caused it, but in my quest to have a lid that closes I ended up having to buy a new armrest. Thankfully to parts-bin engineering, it's still in stock and sold new. P/N J2010AG000JD. Able to find it on eBay for cheap sometimes (at least I did so last year).

That's extremely reassuring to hear. I drive to save gas, so i rarely hit boost above 10 PSI anyway. Sometimes I just get bit with the wrenching/modification bug, and I need to be told that I'm being crazy.

This may indeed be a stupid question... but has anyone done a head gasket replacement just as preventive maintenance? For s**ts and giggles? Any major HG issues for high-mileage turbos? I know the HG issues were mainly with the NA models, but I'm getting ready to do a timing belt change, and in the spirit of "do it all at once" thought about the head gaskets. My car isn't giving me any issues or hint of concern that my head gaskets are going, it's really just a "why not?" since I'm stuck at home and not daily driving my car. Again, no signs or symptoms of HG failures. Car drives perfect. No coolant drain or oil consumption. I'm putting down slightly-more-than-stock power at more-than-stock boost (286whp @ 21psi) and my car has 160k miles. Any thoughts? My search game might not be the greatest, as I tried it on here and NASIOC and haven't really found any opinions on it.

It set me back just a little north of 2k shipped to Hawaii, but i think I've seen them listed some places for just under 1800. Damn that Hawaii tax...

The Hipermax S replaced the GTs, but they didn't have an LGT specific model, so I just went with the 2.5i coilovers (AF005). https://www.hksusa.com/news/hks-new-coilover-series-hipermax-s When doing a make/model search, the AF005 does return for the LGT models: https://www.hksusa.com/products/80300/AF005/4003 and when I looked thru their previous application charts, the coilover PNs were the same for both turbo and NA models. I never had the GTs so I can't give you the comparison:icon_cry:. What I can tell you, however, with great certainty that these are definitely better than Raceland Coilovers by far! To be fair, I don't do any track days, but am always trying to build my car with the "maybe I will eventually" mentality.

PM sent!

So I didn't install these today, but better late than never! Took 6 months from the time of purchase for them to actually arrive at my door. According to HKS the drop is -1.4 in up front and -1.3 in the rear for the Sedan. These ride amazingly comfortable! Although I did set my dampers for more "comfort" orientation.

Nice. I would inquire more about the ringland failure, mainly did it fail before/after mods, and if tuning was changed to help it out. The other thing to be aware of is the whole forged vs oem piston debate (I'm not an expert, just from what I read forged pistons may introduce cold slap, and burn more oil, and require another rebuild xxxxx miles down the road). Otherwise: - <edited> What area is it from? Rust belt states do numbers on the car - Nothing in the mod list mentions changing timing belt and all other consumables, since the engine was rebuilt it would've been good to get that done at the same time. If it was changed, ask specifically about what kit was used (some kits, which escape my mind, have been shown to fail earlier than expected) - Nothing mentioned about clutch in the mod list. Is it stock? Going out? How about master/slave cylinder? - Ask if the Banjo Bolt still has the filter or if it was stripped (again I'm not an expert, some people like it one way, other prefer the other). - Check the Turbo Bypass Valve (I don't see it listed in the mod list, sometimes they can go bad and limit boost, otherwise, some people rice out and convert to a BOV) - As always, it would be nice if you could take it out for a good test drive - Even better if you can get it to a lift and do a thorough inspection, or have someone else do a good inspection for you (check leaks around head gasket, not as common on turbos but this has been further boosted and rebuilt, check brake fluid color, look for fluid leaks, etc) That's all I can think of for now

Nice looking car with decent mileage. Being a PA car, check for rust (suspension parts, doors, engine bay esp around radiator mounts). Looking at the car I say: - The back is debadged. It was either done on purpose, or the car was resprayed, so check for body work - If you can get a mechanic to inspect it, especially for boost leak. After I bought my LGT, turned out that my stock IC was leaking and my BPV wouldn't hold boost past 11 lbs). - Check fluids and check maintenance records if possible. 100k miles I'd inquire about belt services. Given your experience with imprezas, you know the importance of oil maintenance. As for 2007, I have one, check the following: - Dashboard, door panels, horn cover - Touch and feel it, mine had a gooey, sticky feeling. After googling, this seems like a common issue. I ended up replacing my dash and one of my door panels. Will probably replace the other door panels as I find more. And I'm definitely looking to replace my horn cover. - Check the center console cover (the arm-rest thingy). See if it latches. If not (and you want it to) you'll need to replace it (I'm going to make a post on it later when I have time). - Check the trunk lock mechanism and see if it pops up without assistance. The Torsion bars seem to be a notorious failure point and my trunk only opens if I lift up while I press the trunk button on my fob. The remote trunk release in cabin is electric, so again, someone needs to lift up on the trunk while the remote release is being used. If I were in the market for an LGT and I were within a 100 mile radius, I would've checked this car out. Given the market I'm not sure if you can negotiate the price down, but that price actually seems pretty good (to me at least, to each his own)