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ivan.ej255

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    BM9 GT 5EAT

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  1. Ah yeah forgot about Firedrake! I always see their posts in social media and they seem to be great too. I think you're in good hands with any of those 3 shops. You're right every time I visit this place and also the FB group my wallet gets thinner lol. Even though this 5th-gen platform is known to be "lacking" in terms of aftermarket support, I still find it very enjoyable as there's still so much we can do to it. Case in point: I recently found out that the JDM 5th-gen Legacy tS (tuned by STI) has an all black headliners and pillar covers like the modern WRX STIs... but that's a topic for another day
  2. Hi, I don't have my Windows laptop with me right now but think it starts with "Tumble" in the parameter list.
  3. Hi, thanks for the update. You can log and compare left and right TGV in RomRaider logger. With my car there is a little voltage variance of around 0.02-0.05v between left and right but I don't think it's enough to make a difference. I will still look into it though, I will thoroughly check on this when I have my car in the shop for AVCS filtered bolts and cam seals replacement. Reading back, I think it's now clear to me that we don't have the same 'problem'. Mine doesn't change with load at all, it's the same with A/C on or off, Drive or Neutral, etc. I think what I'm experiencing is just a little 'nuisance' not really a bad vibration, it's just I don't want to feel that the engine is on at idle as it is with other cars in this class
  4. Hi, Scubaboo! Yes, I had mine retrofitted. I bought facelift headlights from a 2013 LGT, then had those retrofitted. So the stock headlights with the stock projectors are still with me, kept them as spare. While researching about this conversion I found out that for our cars which are factory equipped with HIDs, buying the cheap(relatively) facelift assemblies from/for USDM cars won't work since they're not factory HIDs- they don't have the wiring for auto-leveler(because they don't have the auto-leveler motor at all) and no built-in enclosure for the HID ballasts. There are aftermarket solutions but I want everything to look OEM. For projectors I chose G5-R projectors with Osram CBI bulbs and I initially reused the factory 10 year old ballasts. The G5-R looks identical to the latest Morimoto D2S 5.0, but the beam is much fuller and much more intense. G5-R with the factory 35 watts ballast can match the output of D2S 5.0 on 55 watts. Eventually though my factory 10 year old ballasts started to show signs of deterioration (intermittently turning off/on) which made me upgrade to aftermarket 55 watts. I made sure they still fit inside the OEM location (inside the headlights). Now with the 55 watt ballasts, the light output is unreal lol. Even beside newer luxury cars with their fancy adaptive LED lights my lights still come out on top. Not to mention the ultra sharp cut-off that is unmatched by ANY factory car. Also, since the projectors are now bi-xenons, the high beam is much more intense since I now have 4 lights for high beams (high beams from the projectors + separate OE halogen high beams). The best available bi-xenon projector right now in terms of output would be the G5-BRT. It is almost the same as the G5-R but with added AR coated blue lens. This makes the light beam more intense(+∼10%) at the expense of reducing color temp, a reduction of around 500Kelvin. Best combos for me would be: G5-R + Osram CBI bulbs(5500K)/+ 55 watt ballast: -This is my no.1 choice and is the combo I used. Resulting color temp would be around 5000K(5500K bulbs + color reduction of the high power 55 watt ballasts). G5-BRT + CBI/CBB bulbs (these 2 have the same color when warm, both around 5500K, CBB is just more blue at startup) + OEM/aftermarket 35 watt ballast: -Color temp would be around 5000K too but a bit less intense then the first combo since this is only 35 watts. If you use 55 watts the color temp would be around 4500K, almost like a halogen color. Color is "all-weather" as some would call it, but I've personally experienced no significant gains by going from 5500K down to 4300K. You can also use Philips XV Gen 2(XV2) or Osram Nighbreaker Laser(NBL) HID bulbs which are both arguably the brightest OEM-grade HID bulbs available in the market right now but their color is around 4500-4800K. They're a lot warmer than CBI and if you pair them with 55 watt ballasts + BRT projectors, the color is literally like a good halogen bulb at around 4000K or less. So, G5-BRT + XV2/NBL + 55 watts = the best of the best among the bi-xenons in terms of output but the color will be like halogen as mentioned. MLED 2.0: I haven't seen this personally but based on the reviews and tests online, it can match the G5-BRT's output and is the best bi-LED projector available in the market right now. Also there's no one locally who sells this projector. If you want this you can import it yourself(I recommend Lightwerkz) then either diy or have one of our local retrofitters fit them for you. No warranty for the latter of course since the part didn't come from them. I had mine done by Redline Auto Works in QC. I've known the owner(Tots) for almost 10 years now, he also did the retrofit on my older car 7-8 years ago and had no problems with it so this shop was the safe choice for me. Also heard good things about TheRetrofitShop(GaryQ) who's also an OG in this field locally. One thing about GaryQ though, you won't be able to specify G5-R, G5-BRT, etc. as he's not very open about what's the equivalent of his projectors when comparing them to what's available overseas. The projectors I mentioned change names depending on the region. So, researching about GaryQ's projectors via cross referencing won't be possible lol. Both these guys have been doing retrofits for 10 years or more now and their pricing is also close so choose whoever you prefer. Sorry for the long post lol, hope this helps!
  5. Hi, just saw this while browsing the forum and sorry for bumping up an old thread. Subaru actually has a TSB (SB15-048) regarding this back in 2015 for factory-equipped HID headlamps on 2010-2014 Legacy/Outback(non-USDM markets). It's only a TSB however, just an updated part number for the headlamp assemblies and the HID bulb instead of a recall. As others have said here, they're citing the reason for the deterioration is "very strong ultraviolet emitted from this bulb under continuous long period of use". The new HID bulb with the new part number allegedly emits less UV which saves the reflector inside the projector from deterioration. Once the deterioration has occurred though there's no other solution other than to buy new headlamp assemblies($$$) or have new projectors retrofitted to your old ones (imo this is the better solution, as you can now have bi-xenon projectors). If you're going the projector retrofit route, I suggest G5-R, G5-BRT, or MLED 2.0 projectors. These are the current top dogs in the aftermarket and will outperform even the latest factory LED/bi-LED equipped cars without blinding other drivers. SB15-048 https://i.imgur.com/H9Vtzoj.png
  6. Just an FYI, that valve body performance mod is not the whole valve body. You will need to transfer the solenoids, inhibitor, harness, and speed sensor from your old valve body into the new one. So if you're having problems with your current valve body, replacing it with the modded one is not gonna solve it.
  7. ilib11 I forgot to mention that I also had all 4 fuel injectors cleaned last year, they found the injector in cyl 4 to be slightly clogged and dirty. Had them all cleaned then flow tested and it seemed to improve the vibration a TINY bit (still not as smooth as it can be), but it slowly came back after a few days. Most likely it was just placebo that the vibration improved lol. I've been reading about the AVCS as mentioned in your thread in the Liberty forum, and it's something I haven't looked into throughly yet. I'm always including the AVCS angles in my datalogs though and I haven't seen any evidence of AVCS malfunction. I'm gonna dig deeper into this. Regarding the Fluidampr, yes it's mainly for damping those torsional vibrations but it seems like the big side effect of that is a smoother engine overall- at least that's what I can see from Subaru owners' reviews who installed it. I'll post an update when I get it installed. Scubaboo Yep, mine has 0 misfires too on cyl 1-4, checked throughly by me with romraider and by the dealership with their SSM computer. BTW (Off topic) I forgot to update you but I had the Bilstein coilovers intalled and the ride comfort is WAY BETTER compared to both the OEM Bilstein shocks and the KYB SR shocks lol. Ok back to the topic.
  8. Hi, my 2010 5EAT LGT is having this kind of vibration too. I have been chasing this 'problem' since I got the car in 2018 and now I kind of gave up already lol. The vibration is actually not bad like how a solid engine mount would vibrate, but it's still very noticeable and I kind of just accepted that this is how the Legacy 2.5GT is. Kind of annoying knowing this is a midsize car which should have better engine NVH at idle than compact cars but my old 8th-gen civic is actually smoother at idle with load or not. Like you, I have changed all the possible culprits with all original Subaru parts from the dealership: All 4 spark plugs (changed it 3x within 1 year/10,000km just to be sure) All 4 ignition coils MAF sensor replaced 2x Throttle body cleaned 2x in 1 year Vacuum leak/boost leak test several times Compression and leakdown test several times New air filter New battery Replaced almost all of the vacuum hoses available in the Subaru parts catalog New engine and transmission mounts (1 in front, 1 on each side (left and right), 1 transmission mount)- This surprised me the most. Both old side engine mounts were trashed, but after installing new original ones there's no difference at all with regards to the vibration. In all my previous cars there's always a big reduction in engine vibration after replacing trashed engine mounts. All of the parts are installed the right way, always following the factory service manual. Datalogs from romraider shows the engine is in tiptop shape. Same results when plugged in to the SSM computer at the dealership. I've also manipulated the idle speeds thru romraider and ecuflash and yes, this does not solve the 'problem' it just masks it. I have since added almost 40,000km to it since I bought and it hasn't given me any engine/transmission related problems. After 3 years of chasing this with no positive results, I kind of just gave up 'actively' going after this as it's just another source of stress for me. Not to mention the amount of money spent on this lol. My next step would be to install Fluidampr (replaces your crankshaft pulley). I know the USDM LGT has a different drive/serpentine belt system than the rest of the world and the Fluidampr is not compatible. If your 5th gen uses 2 separate belts for power steering/alternator and A/C like the rest of the world, the Fluidampr for EJ25 application will fit your car. If this does not solve the vibration then I'm done. I'll just fully accept it as it is lol.
  9. If you want 4032 pistons then your only choices are Mahle, Cosworth and Rallispec's Omega pistons. Mahle is top notch, it is one of the most used piston manufacturer by top motorsport teams. AFAIK Cosworth already stopped producing them for Subarus so only shops that have them in stock will be able to sell them you. Piston slap on 2618 pistons shouldn't really be that big of a deal unless your engine builder doesn't know what he's doing. The bigger benefit the 4032 will have over the 2618 would be better long term wear resistance due to higher silicon content.
  10. Is that their AOS specific to the 5th gen Legacy? I emailed IAG a few weeks ago and they told me that they have a 5th gen test car and they will release a 5th gen specific AOS, but no ETA.
  11. Hey! I have the AE5F301C definition for our 2010 EDM Legacy GT 5EAT, available in RomRaider. Our local tuner Mark Bata is known as "MFB" there. I think he's the one who uploaded the definition for our cars. Is your ECU version different?
  12. Haha, both times I intended to take a picture of your car but at those exact times I was also crossing the street! Gotta be mindful of those motorcycle riders who doesn't respect the pedestrian lane while crossing Jupiter street lol. Did you install the RSB first or the KW first? I'm curious about the additional ride stiffness and the NVH the RSB will add to our local 5th gen. My rear endlinks and RSB bushings are shot, I figured I might as well upgrade the RSB if it doesn't add that much NVH. About the KW, that sounds about right from my experience with KW. Firmer ride but more consistent- doesn't get crashy on bumps and potholes. Gonna wait for your follow up review once they have settled in but looks like I found my next suspension upgrade! lol
  13. Hey, I've been inactive for quite a while but I think I saw your car in Makati twice this week! Nice and shiny LGT! It prompted me to go to this forum today lol. What are your thoughts on your new RSB? How about your KWs have you installed them yet?
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