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legacybt

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legacybt last won the day on September 7 2023

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  • Location
    Vancouver, BC
  • Car
    2005 Legacy 2.5GT Wagon
  • Interests
    Maximizing my Thanked:Post ratio
  • Occupation
    Mech Eng

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  1. Confirming location per 2005 FSM - brake booster goes to the plastic fitting beside the metal one.
  2. Nice build, interested to see what comes next! Re. tire selection: I'd put a vote in for Continental Extremecontact Sports, I loved the ECS for the 2 days I got to run them before my engine let go... ^ 10/10 interior mods
  3. Still one of the most outrageous fitments on a stock body LGT . I can't get my head around a wide tire on a +30 offset fitting, considering how tight my 255/35R18 on a +42 is up front on rolled/pulled fenders.
  4. Clean install! Interested to see the results. Routing it through the front structure definitely cleans up and shortens the plumbing. Are you using the raceflux viton lined hose or something else? Worth noting that a lot of braided nylon hose has a max operating temp of ~250f which doesn’t leave much margin for the hotter supply line. Good to see the silicone wrap on those! https://www.anhosefittings.com/lightweight-nylon-braided-viton-sae-j30-r9-hose-for-fuel-and-oil-10an.html
  5. Resolved by attempting to start the car… looks like everything was hooked up right, it just needs an attempted start cycle in the ECU/BIU to display fuel level instead of only key on.
  6. Ok, I hooked a 10 ohm resistor up across the circuit so simulate what should be a pretty full tank. Still nothing. Does anyone know what the voltage between points 1 and 5 in the diagram in my last post should be while the gauge is reading? I measured 1V and I don’t know if the BIU should be monitoring at a higher voltage (5V?) - I’m thinking something might have been damaged in there.
  7. I've recently installed a V1 Radium fuel hanger and now my fuel gauge reads empty, but sweeps on key on. I'm moving through troubleshooting what's gone wrong and am hoping for some assistance from some of you knowledgeable people! There is a bunch of custom wiring done so I'm in for a bit of an adventure, but the circuit should match stock. I've tested the following points. 1,5 = 61.5 Ohms (BIU to ground, both senders in series) 2,5 = 61 Ohms (Local harness to ground, both senders in series) 2,3 = 19 Ohms (Driver side sender plus some harness) 3,4 = 42 Ohms (Passenger side sender plus some harness) 4,5 = 0 Ohms (harness ground to chassis) I also shorted the passenger sender connector so I had 42 Ohms between the BIU and ground, but still no reading at the gauge. Next steps = install a 20 Ohm resistor between points 2 and 4 to bypass all of my new wiring and see if the gauge reads. I'm hoping to get answers for a few questions: - are the resistances I'm measuring in spec for expected fuel sender values that should read non-zero at the gauge? - Any other ideas for what the culprit might be? - If there are iffy connections anywhere, could you expect the BIU to read something different than the multimeter? Thanks!
  8. Another update. Engine fit-up is getting closer. There's been a good bit of custom plumbing, sourcing fittings and electrical harnesses exhaust and turbo outlet elbow welding (thanks to a friend) with plenty more to do. I wanted to stay TMIC (we'll see how long that decision lasts) and worked to find the shortest turbo-intercooler routing possible. Very happy with the result, hoping my measurements for space between the turbo and wheel arch are accurate Setting valve lash was also a super slow process doing it the first time. Exhaust cams: 20004727 Cosworth EXH EJ20 WRX 268/10.2 - I can't find any info on the specs aside from some old forum posts. Intake Cam: Cosworth 20004723 Cosworth EJ25 STI 277/11 - I'm a bit concerned about them not being nicely matched, but oh well. I'm going to run them as-is. Turbo: GTX3071R Twin Scroll with dual Tial MVR Wastegates plumbed back into the exhaust Grimmspeed TMIC Mooresport fuel rails and Goodridge Aramid lines (not pictured) ID1300CC injectors Turbo/EWG setup: Engine: Fitting up turbo outlet elbow: Turbo welded: DIY Cylinder 4 Coolant Mod: There is a ~10mm restrictor in the hose that also prevents it from kinking To do before engine install: Get the header heat shields to clear the Killer B oil pan (taken way too long) Weld up fuel distribution block bracket Plumb BPV back into intake (better boost recovery, nice-to-have because speed density) Route coolant hoses to EWGs Route vacuum lines Install engine accessories and timing belt Fit turbo oil feed Re-do turbo coolant lines in AN Install wiring harness on engine Properly install cam covers Wire up speed density harness (ordered all connectors etc) Install sandwich plate for oil cooler Wrap or build heat shields for up pipes Things are starting to feel real! It's a slow process.
  9. Engine build update time. I've been reassembling a new-to-me long block. - STI block and nitrided crank - Cosworth rods & pistons - Cosworth KK3766 CNC ported big valve heads & cams - Grimmspeed head gaskets The engine had terrible leakdown numbers when I got it, fortunately only due to carbon buildup on the valves stopping them from seating properly. I partly tore the engine down, checked ring gaps, inspected bores and had the heads cleaned and serviced. Before: After: More to come!
  10. ToTD looks like it was an amazing drive! Have you decided on an oil cooler setup?
  11. I’ve run Kartboy on my Whiteline setup for 10ish years without issue
  12. Huge fan of this build, and can’t wait to see those brakes when they’re done! Any dyno graphs for the new engine or is it still in break in period?
  13. A couple more photos of the front knuckles and hubs for a size comparison. I’m not excited about the increase in unsprung weight, but I am excited about the increase in strength. Combined with two piece rotors I’m hoping these stand up to some longer term track abuse. Note the difference in spline length between the LGT and STI front axles, the axle nut won’t be fully threaded on. GD front axles are the same overall and have the right spline length, so I’ll be using those instead. Next up: engine stuff.
  14. Yeah, it’s cheap enough as long as I’m removing and reinstalling the studs. Cash job for a local machinist, so it’s pretty reasonable! I’m enjoying it recreationally; it’s my daily so I don’t have plans for it to be built up as a full track car. I unfortunately don’t have the space for a second car, and there aren’t many cars out there that tick all the boxes like this one does - space, speed and fun. Ideally I’d like to be able to get out to the track 2-3x a year. Re. the GR Ohlins coils - I also had rear top hats waterjet and I drilled them out to fit the Ohlins bolt pattern.
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