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MarcoLGT

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    2010 LGT

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  1. Bringing this back from the dead... Hoping someone has a set they never installed and willing to let them go.
  2. When did it start pulling? Guess they didn't give you a sheet this time? The nuts can't be that expensive, worth giving them a shot. Can try cross rotating the front tires see if the pull goes away/other direction. Not sure how old/worn they are. Or the steering wheel wasn't straight when they set toe if. Rear camber seems a bit heavy on the negative side, but they're close so I'll assume they noticed the adjustable lower arms in the back.
  3. They recommend new nuts because they are self locking/oblong at the end to keep them from backing off. I reused mine after doing front wheel bearings. Bolts shouldn't need to be replaced especially if they were just off/not seized. Unless they are trying to get the alignment in factory specs and you need more adjustment range to get there. Did they give you an alignment sheet after they looked at it?
  4. That's a 4th gen Definitely a roll and maybe a pull, check in the 4th gen section they'll be more help. Tires look to be BFG Comp A/S. If so those things meaty on the sidewall or corner tread. All tire brands will fit differently.
  5. Looking good, can't wait for the final result. Don't think you can get a better price!
  6. Happy to help when I can. I know often things can get lost behind a keyboard. A few times I read a post of mine and feel I sound like an A-hole and that's not my intention, nor do I think you sounded that way. I miss-read your original post then felt like my post was not 100% necessary but at least some good info came from it. And that's the point of these forums, to learn and help others. But we have to be careful not to spread misinformation as well, which is not the case here either. Best of luck to ya!
  7. If the driveshaft is coming out make sure to mark the driveshaft and the differential flange with a line. Tape or a paint pen works. When putting back together line them up. Keeps everything in sync and no vibrations later.
  8. I posted that then checked the overall diameter and realised it was not that big of a difference. Post wasn't neccessary and you were spot in from the get go, my bad. There were some other factors not given like wheel width. Tire manufacturer can also play a big role, but all this info is out there between this forum and many others. Problem has been solved but at the fear of still rubbing at 60 kmh. Definitely follow Locosiete's advice and check to make sure all the push pins are in and good beforehand. I say give it a go at 60 and see what happens. No damage to the tire which is a good sign. what's one more time?
  9. The 45 in the tire size is an aspect ratio. So the sidewall is 45% of the width. Increasing tire width but staying the same aspect ratio will increase the circumference of the tire. 245/45 tire has a sidewall height of 110.25mm vs a 225/45 with a 101.25mm height. Overall diameter changed from 25.97in to 26.68in. Now not that big of a change and others have ran it without rubbing. Also missing wheel width here
  10. I think Poconoracing shot me a picture of the same spot on a different thread, appreciate the offer. Seems to be the go to location. Congratulations! Huge gains everywhere over the Cobb map. Just shows how much is left on the table with OTS tunes vs a competent tuner.Enjoy the new power!
  11. The TSW wheels are flow formed/spin forged/rotary forged or whatever they want to call it. Essentially the barrel starts off as a chunk of cast metal and it gets pressed into shape while being spun. Gives the metal tighter molecular structure. It's like forging without the high cost and creates a lighter/stronger wheel. Enkei does this on their RPF1 and PF01 (racing wheels). Plus many others. Many manufacturers offer a similar process. Always a good habit to check out wheel weights. Lighter will always give better performance accelarating, braking and handling. In the 5th gen photos section aftermarket wheel thread someone has the Option Labs, last page. Worth looking at if ya have not yet. If the TSWs are that much lighter, go for them. They've been around some time now. Konig offers decent price wheels and flow forging, not sure if that goes together. Wheels are always a pain, spend weeks/months looking for the right bolt pattern, width/offset, style, weight, price, color, compliments the car... Good luck in your search!
  12. Appreciate the picture of the stock inlet and the link! It was a good read. Where did you mount the solenoid? If you don't mind me asking
  13. Your GS adapter is already slotted. Mcg slotted his 3" gasket and used the GS slotted 2.25-2.5". He also threw on some exhaust putty and fixed his leak. Not saying that's wrong, just trying to avoid it. Everyone has their own way. Mine happens to be the longest/biggest pain. There's no way I'm swinging for the intercooler, just a pipe dream. I like it because it gets rid of that pesky intercooler to throttle body coupler and replaces it with a straight one. They did actual testing on their unit. At least that's how I justify my wants, lol. I tend to over think things and try to shoot for perfection, maybe that's my problem and why nothing gets finished...
  14. At least it's fixed now! Always the worst chasing down rattles. It happens, saw a tech at work just throw on some red loctite. That would be a fun toy! Light weight, 1UZ is pretty damn reliable, not sure about finding R154s anymore, did that dance a few years ago. They are a hot item in the Supra/SC300 community, or used to be. So they charged an arm and a leg. I remember a video when they did cash for clunkers. SC400 1UZ would not die after pouring in the liquid glass. Should be great for beating on the track!
  15. Mcg - thank you for the write up! It's a huge help. I purchased one of those adapters originally but cancelled before it shipped. Grimmspeed 077046 may offer better flow for this transition, but it's technically for a donut gasket to 3" flat gasket. The holes aren't slotted, so I passed. It may work, only way to know is buy it and see. Until now I never realized you cut the stock side off thw adapter, oops. Plus there are no pictures of the AVO adapter. Its like no one really makes an adapter for our car. Unless the AVO adapter fits properly, but the flow from 3" - 2.25" is not smooth. Scubaboo - That gets me in trouble, a deal too good to pass up. Like right now, a GS intercooler and boost control solenoid for $805 shipped. The intercooler goes for $845 itself! Yet I must refrain... So i just checked what I have (AVO 3" gasket, AVO adapter, stock 2.25" gasket). What I can see the AVO adapter should work. The extruded piece to the stock exhaust measures 1/16" bigger than 2.25" and judging from mcg_ picture/measurement that should work. The 3" gasket will need the bolt holes slotted. The AVO adapter will need the bolt holes slotted, they're drilled for a 3" flange/gasket. This was matching up to the stock exhaust gasket. And the AVO downpipe holes may need to be slotted slighty, they already are but did not match the stock gasket holes. Or one could slot out the stock flange holes on the car, but mine is rusted to hell, so I'm leaving that alone. I want the bolts to go straight in, no angle at all. Less likely to leak that way. Also found the AVO adapter does not sit flush against the downpipe flange, has a slight rock to it. So either the GS 2x thick 3" gasket #076001 will work or I'll have a machine shop check the adapter and downpipe, see what they think. Last thing I want is the coating destroyed on my new downpipe. Have something else for them to do anyway.
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