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aperson

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About aperson

  • Birthday November 18

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  • Location
    CNY
  • Car
    2011 Legacy 3.6r & 2002 WRX Wagon

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  1. It'd be cheaper and easier to just use a sandwich adapter and run an external oil cooler with a thermostat. Cooler and thermostat are around $60US a piece and a sandwich adapter is around the same. I also find it weird that Subaru would remove the built-on oil cooler for a single market. Do you do your own oil changes? The factory oil cooler is just a sandwich adapter and might go un-noticed unless you know what you're looking for.
  2. Mine does this every so often, I ended up taking the throttle body off and cleaning it. I also used BTSSM and my Tactrix 2.0 cable to reset the ECU and allowed it to idle for 10-15 minutes to re-learn the idle and it seems to have gotten better. The only issue I still have is harsh downshifts to first under deceleration.
  3. Depending on where you are the MIL light working properly may be part of your state inspection. I know it is in NY but it all depends on who you know.
  4. I believe there's also some sort of run timer or distance measurement for how far the actuators pull the brake cables. I had this consistently last year and ended up the parking brake shoes needed to be adjusted. Spun the adjuster out so the shoes barely scrubbed the drums and it went away. I still get it every now and then but when I do I feel/hear the shoes clicking cause they didn't release properly. ALso most e-brakes lock/bind when moving in reverse so if you park on an incline with the nose up and reverse from your spot that could do it too. My procedure when parking is so hold the brake, put in park, hit the parking brake and once I hear it stop I release the brakes. Car barely rolls and I know the parking pawl isn't being stressed.
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