Loya1ty

2016. Just hit 139k. I love it but just didn't make sense to keep. Got a lower trade in offer than I wanted but even with neg equity I still dodged more repair costs. 1.9 Apr on 2023 Wrx so I bribed the wife and succeeded somehow. New owner of this gem:

I regret selling my Legacy officially lol Truck def gave off the hemi tick this morning, so I've got quite a laundry list of repairs that are creeping up on urgent status that I can't really be dropping a few thousand at the shop so will probably be doing it myself.. except it'll probably take me a couple of weekends. That 3rd car would be nice right now lol. Any chance anyone is selling for around 4-5k?

Big fan of the Mazda styling and driver oriented driving and comfort (passengers aren't quite as high but decent). The big reason we ended up with the Highlander over the CX-9 is due to the lame sales team at the Mazda dealer, and knowing the highlander would retain its value better since we knew it is our bridge SUV while the baby/toddler stage wreaks havoc lol - then it's probably an update to a Volvo XC-90 hybrid (but may consider the new CX-90/Grand Highlander/Telluride). Hard to beat Volvo comfort though but pricing is important.

Quite the list Point XD gonna be a few days of test drives when the time comes. I came across this low priced, high mileage '18 3.6 outback: https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/4S4BSETC5J3323607 Unfortunately, it appears based on service records that oil changes were barely done over 166 miles lol not to mention from sources such as dealer, midas, and walmart. i'd wonder what that engine looks like 0.0

I'll also be hanging onto my truck for a while yet. Turns out the dealer I bought it from didn't disclose severe structural damage to the rear frame. There are no accidents reported, this was just brought up at Carmax when they were able to see Auction disclosures on Experian Auto Check. I half wonder if its just from rust, as I looked and didn't see any bends/pinches, repairs, or cracks any where, and I've towed upwards to 10k pounds with it a few times. Regardless, Carmax will milk that shit and only offered me 12k :D. Even listed they would need to replace the rear bumper, and there is zero wrong with the current one. Oh, and a transmission replacement because it downshifts a little hard lol bunch of crooks, the whole industry. Good thing I love my truck, but was really looking forward to a 3.6r outback build.

Everything is overpriced these days . The new gen WRX has grown on me a good bit. Rear bumper and taillights are still meh though.

Considering getting back into a Subaru The truck has been nice, but I've taken care of most of my home improvement supply hauls and don't have much use aside from picking up free shit on facebook lol I figure a 5x10 trailer will be plenty for my needs if I can land a 3.6r outback. Found this one: https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/4S4BSETC6H3243517. But idk if it was just a really poor cleaning/detail job or if it got water inside at some point based on the photos. Either way, looking around for a wagon as long as I can get a good offer on the truck. Happy 2024 car hunting all!

oh man... brb, returning the ear rings I just bought for my wife let me get back to you on this.. see if I can work some xmas magic. but def intrigued. Was it your old post that I commented on before seeing you driving on 50? couldn't find my posts.

SOLD. Settled at $4000. Much lower than I would have liked, but buyer was serious and helping out a refugee (good story either way lol). Registration, taxes, and insurance were also motivated to get it out of my driveway.

yep, which is why I'm salty it had to be replaced at all. Been so well maintained and probably will go 300k+ strong with just normal maintenance items. Just need to find the right buyer.

The valve body I've read a lot of folks have had to replace, solely due to a solenoid failing (low voltage usually). Subaru doesn't sell the solenoid individually, and 3rd party marketplace solenoids can be hit or miss. The issue arises when doing the replacement, the valve body is attached to the transmission so you're essentially opening it up as well. Some model CVTs have the valve body on top, others on the bottom. I'm actually unsure which mine is. The reason I opted not to DIY is that the valve body has a lot of little parts - sensor harness, o-rings, bolts, etc. and can be finicky. The story I got was the tech 'mis-placed' an o-ring and ended up getting sucked into the tranny. The 2013 CVT is actually known to be pretty strong - in response to sprank. I don't remember the information precisely, but there was a change/improvement at some point during the 2013 model year - hence the diff location of the valve body itself. I never had a problem, which is why I pushed back on the dealer to provide me detailed information as to why the tranny was slipping when there were no signs of transmission issues previously and plenty of recorded cases of the valve body being replaced without further issues.

All good, open to feedback! If I get some time I'll def be returning to stock. I'm getting close to dropping to $5400 but might throw it up on Auto Trader first. I'm certainly not happy about the added CVT asterisk >_<

Buuuump. Save me from VA property tax and Sept registration expiry

Dang.. I've got it listed on FB marketplace too. Didn't think it'd be this hard to sell