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LGTorv

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About LGTorv

  • Birthday January 1

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  • Car
    06 OBP 5MT Sedan, scrapped 06 BSM

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  1. Hi all, I'm looking to purchase either an entire OBP trunk or just the panel that has the license plate and badges on it. Mine's cracked and I'd love to just drop a new one in but a whole trunk would probably suffice as well. I don't care if it has non-GT badging. I am also looking for a front lip; Bayson R seems to be out of stock and it seems like they supply the only decent eBay listing for a preface USDM bumper lip as well. Told me 2-3 months for restock so if any of you have one kicking around I'll gladly buy it. Willing to drive a fair bit. Located 19446 - Philly suburbs. Thanks!
  2. Any plans to hit Boxerfest in York on Sunday? Hoping to go; I could use those timing cover gaskets and I'll take the rest of the stuff off your hands if it's just gonna get scrapped.
  3. Oh, to add, I know a lot of you have 05s. I'll try this on my P201-UH at some point but I'd bet they're similar enough that it would work.
  4. Hey everyone, I'm a student at the moment and don't have $300+ to drop on a JDM radio fascia + head unit, and with AE64 seemingly inactive and the Jazzy boards no longer being made, I couldn't find a way to "cheaply" get aux in my car. I know there's the upgraded headunit from the later LGTs + Impreza aux harness option still available, but there's an even cheaper option that a friend sent me recently. Granted, it's pretty ghetto and the new headunit option is what most of you would probably spring for, but that aside, here's the video I was sent. Basically, the switch bypasses two traces in the PCB. When the aux jack is unplugged it lets the FM signal through, and when it's plugged in it just sends the aux signal through the trace instead. Here's the Digikey link: https://www.digikey.com/short/3w55b2 I attempted it myself, although I made the wiring too short so it doesn't quite reach the ash tray/cubby where I initially planned to install it. Been working well for a couple weeks now. I also got a ground loop noise isolator although I didn't end up noticing much static without it though. Thought I'd share here since it worked so well for being $4. (yes the tape in the pic was temporary lol)
  5. PMed. New LGT came with some rubber ones that I don't care to drive with. Thanks!
  6. Any updates on this? Looking forward to it if things are working out.
  7. Nah, don't worry about it. Thanks though. I need some fairly small ones apparently and I didn't see them in your spreadsheet.
  8. 4S3BL676566203789 '06 GT Limited BSM/Black/5MT - scrapped after I found poor collision repair and significant damage 4S3BL676766204183 '06 GT Limited OBP/Black/5MT - to be scrapped shortly. I repaired what I could but ended up giving in due to rust. 4S3BL676056227996 '05 GT Limited OBP/Black/5MT - Turbo failure a few thousand ago, then ringland failure. On its second(?) trans. Will be getting a "new" engine from my parted out '06.
  9. Whew. Decided to Scotchbrite my journals to bring the high spots down. Ran it by a couple people that I trust and they think it'll be fine, so I'm kinda just hoping to get as many miles as I can out of this engine. Definitely not ideal but I refuse to pour more money into this longblock than I already have. Drained the oil from the spare 255 with ringland failure. I have never see oil so thin before. However, it didn't have metal flakes. I believe the heads on that engine will be in acceptable condition, and if I can get a good deal on a type RA shortblock I'd like to refinish them and go for 400 if/when this block goes. Finally measured the valve clearances properly tonight. I had to put a whole heads worth of buckets back in so the tolerances were pretty off but I believe it's accurate enough that I can figure out what buckets to order. I also cataloged the leftover buckets that I have and measured the real values with my new micrometer. Went with a $50 Fowler which I'm pretty happy with.
  10. Anyone still exchanging buckets? Looking for something like 483 or 485. Smallest I have right now is a 490 which I'll probably need to reuse anyways. I'll buy them if nobody wants to exchange, $28 per is just a bit obnoxious.
  11. Decided maybe I'm not going the 20x route. I talked to a few friends that are more experienced than I and they said I'll be alright if I just let the journals/cams be, with maybe a light polish. I cleaned up the burrs on the one journal today and started mixing buckets around to bring valve clearances into spec. Worst one so far was about .4-.5mm out of range.
  12. A little sad today. Finally took the driver's side cam carriers/caps off and got to see how bad the journals are. The one bucket is actually stuck underneath the lip of crushed aluminum journal. For context, the car that I got this engine from went YNANSB about 60k miles ago. Subaru replaced the bottom end and ONLY the passenger side head under warranty, and this is the head that was just put back on. I guess it's been fine for the last 60k but that sure is a lot of wear. Guess I'll have my extra set of heads refreshed instead of this, since they're a proper matching set. Looks like a full head refresh will be $500-$1000 with a fairly long lead time, so I'm heavily, heavily considering buying a 20x in the mean time and learning to tune on it. Local place has them at $650, and got a quote from iWire for the exhaust AVCS harness. Cheap enough for me to be on the fence about it. I also got an E85 station installed recently so I think that would go well with the higher CR of the 20x. I know you guys don't like 20x swaps around here though.
  13. <pic attached> I'm still procrastinating the subframe drop. Been dealing with engine and school stuff, but a quick measurement says 9.5" between the two mounting brackets. You might still have to add the length of the pieces in the blue rectangle to get the length of the full line though. Best I can do for now.
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