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200kSpecB

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    135
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  • Location
    Alberta
  • Car
    2008 Spec B. - 2012 S4
  • Occupation
    Student

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  1. Haven't been on here in a long time... Took the spec B out for the first time in months, haven't driven it much since I got the S4. I gotta say the spec B might be more fun to drive, you can really feel the weight difference between the two. It definitely cant compete in a straight line though lol
  2. I’ve been buttoning up some things with the car the past few months, I pulled up BTSSM for the first time in a while and saw this on the LV. Not too familiar with this stuff but looks like the ecu is pulling fuel in high load? Potential boost leak? Worth mentioning is that I’m getting lots and lots of knock notifications but really can’t seem to pin point when or why, they seem to be consistent but random. I’d guess about 20 notifications in an hour of spirited driving (IAM still at 1.000 though?) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Definitely not since new, owned the car for the past couple years now and the turbo didn’t look like this about a month ago... I actually did use an octane booster (can’t remember which brand) a few months ago because the tank had been sitting for nearly a year, could that be the cause? I’m not too familiar with this stuff, is the residue something I should be worried about? Also, would this be related at all to the white smoke in my exhaust? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Was working on the spec b and noticed the exhaust was pretty thick white smoke. At first I thought it was just condensation but then after the car warmed up it was still smoking the same as before... pulled the down pipe off and saw that the exhaust side is completely rusted out? Anyone know what could be causing this? My best guess is that a seal went bad in the turbo and it’s burning coolant but I’m not really sure... any ideas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. well tightening the bolts a quarter turn seemed to have solved the issue for the time being but I don't trust the car anymore. I’m really leaning towards selling it in the near future, as long as nothing else breaks in the meantime
  6. That’s the next step, I’ll see tomorrow. Praying that that’s all it is Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. D25 heads so no half moons did some quick searching and cant seem to find anyone with a similar problem here or even on NASIOC I had the tranny out and started it up and could see the oil starting to flow from that bolt so unfortunately it's definitely the bolt
  8. Yup that’s the one... case halves were decked by my machinist so i know they were flat. I really have no idea what could cause this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. So I've been chasing this oil leak for nearly the past year and I finally found where its coming from..... seems to be leaking oil from around this case bolt????? Now I'm at a loss, I reused the bolts but put all new washers. Likewise I'm sure I put silicone on the inside of the block between the halves. And I'm sure I torqued all of these to spec but maybe I missed this one? or maybe I stripped it somehow (although I think I would've noticed this).... Anyone have any ideas of what might've happened or what might be causing the leak? If its stripped then I'm at a crossroads... and tempted to get rid of / part out the spec.
  10. I was actually thinking of the wrong thing, I was thinking of people logging AFR through the TGV but from this looks like oil pressure is also possible... https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/btssm-afr-oil-temp-oil-pressure-rear-o2-tgv-left-275477.html and if I remember correctly this is the plug you're looking for
  11. Yup thats the oil pressure sensor but the OEM unit is more of an on/off switch. You have two options: you can either unthread that guy or locate the other plug closer to the back of the engine and install the new sensor there (most people like this option the most). As for checking the oil pressure, again you have two options: the easiest option is to run an aftermarket gauge and sender and place the gauge somewhere on your dash, OR the complicated way is you can delete your TGVs and do some stuff that I can't remember and then create a custom field in BTSSM to read the TGVs from the ECU but it actually reads oil pressure.
  12. Had a compression and leakdown test done and the results came back ok... I dont have the numbers with me but it was about 2-5% leakdown which to me sounded good but the compression was +-100psi. To me that seems extremely low, I didn't ask if it was done hot or cold but I'm assuming the shop knows better than to do it cold. My ring end gaps were on the loose side could this be causing the lower compression? Or is it most likely that it was done cold? Guy at the shop said it's most likely that the rings haven't seated yet since the car's only gone a couple hundred miles since the rebuild but I'm not too sure about that.
  13. I didn't really pay attention to the timing at idle but coasting in gear with no load it sat steady at 24°. I feel sorry for it too... as far as I know the tune is stock so something funny is going on. I haven't been getting the car into boost and I'll keep it that way until I figure out what's going on.
  14. Ended up being a torn wire going from the alternator so now the electronics seem to be a lot better. On the other hand, IAM is still stuck on 0.500 and I can feel that the engine isn’t all that happy. The car idles a little rough on startup and I keep setting off be knock warning in BTSSM. Also the car seems to sit at 24deg of timing... I’m not sure what it should be but seems wrong to me? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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