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  1. Looking for a clean hatch for a 2005 Legacy wagon in Atlantic Blue Pearl within 150 miles of 06810.
  2. Good question.... There are a few reasons. #1 I had a mechanical R160 LSD on hand and a ring and pinion set to match ratios was easy to find #2 If I used a R180, I'd have had to use the larger axles and corresponding hubs. #3 An R180 is overkill for my application. An R160 can hold 450+WHP and I had no plans on pushing it that hard. The MLSD gives great feel and performance. #4 An R180 and the corresponding components add a lot of weight compared to the R160 which is sized just right for my application
  3. Also, FYI.... the first 7500 miles on the new motor were on a break-in tune running very low boost. I was chasing down a few issues at the time and didn't want to tune for power until everything was sorted. The issue turned out to be a leaky injector. The injectors were all sent to Injector Dynamix, cleaned and flow tested. I never had a problem after that with them.
  4. Year, Make and Model: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited Wagon Color: Satin White Pearl Miles: 167,XXX on chassis... Less than 30k on motor and most major components Transmission: 6 Speed Manual Version 7 STi Title: Clear - no accidents Lien: No liens Location: Danbury, CT 06810 VIN: 4S3BP676656314564 Seller's email address: cdwauto at iCloud.com Asking Price: $14,999 OBO Please email me for more pics. This site is VERY difficult to upload pics to. I have over 50 pics of the car and I can share an online album with you of them. This is one of just 61 Limited wagons produced in 2005 in Satin White Pearl with tan interior and a manual transmission. As you likely know if you’re looking at this car, 2005 was the only year Subaru imported a manual transmission 2.5GT wagon to the US. I purchased the car from the original owner at 132k. He had done a lot of maintenance and some minor modifications mainly to wear items as they needed to be replaced. After I purchased the car, I drove it for about 7500 miles before pulling it all apart for my build. I have owned about 30 WRXs and 9 Legacy GTs so I know my way around these cars. My vision was to build a reliable daily driver that that could do everything. I wanted a 4 season car that could perform, look good, had tons of utility and was NOT an automatic. I didn’t want to sacrifice driveability for performance. I have heard way too many horror stories of people buying built motors only to have them fail after 5 or 10k miles so, I decided to go with a brand new OEM EJ257 factory short block (luckily I got a BB/BB block) from Subaru and tune it to power numbers that were proven not to over-stress the motor and could give it the longevity I was looking for. I settled on 330whp as my target and built the package around that. The car is totally balanced and dialed in right now. The car was tuned by Mike Botti at ACI Dynamix in Seymore CT. It put down 322hp and 341tq on the hottest most humid day of 2017. Peak boost is 19.5psi tapering to 18psi. There is lots more in this engine if you want to push it but I never did. It's plenty powerful enough as it is. It's tuned conservatively. The boost comes on gradually and smoothly for engine longevity. Clean CT title in hand with no liens. Non-smoker car that has been well taken care of. AC, heat, cruise control and all other power options all work exactly as they should. Sunroof does not leak and slides smoothly. I have a 3” thick file of receipts and records for this car. No accidents and clean Carfax. I have an OEM catted downpipe that comes with the car and can easily be swapped in for anyone that needs to deal with emissions testing. This car passed CT emissions without a cat just last year. If you’re looking for a turn-key car that can do everything, come and take a look at this one. All the work has been done and this car is ready for another 150k of use. Motor: New EJ257 short block at 139k New 12mm oil pump at 139k New oil pan at 139k New EJ257 oil cooler at 139k New PCV valve and hoses at 139k New coolant hard pipe at 139k New Subaru Head Gaskets at 139k B25 Cylinder Heads cleaned, checked for cracks and straightness, valves lapped, tested for leaks, cams & buckets shimmed, Brian Crower valve springs and retainers installed, new valve seals New ACVS solenoids at 139k New valve cover gaskets at 139k New cam seals at 139k New Group N motor mounts at 139k New Gates racing timing belt at 139k New Gates water pump at 139k New timing idlers & pulleys at 139k New power steering and alternator belts at 139k Power steering pump rebuild at 160k ARP head studs at 139k New front oxygen sensor at 139k New rear oxygen sensor at 139k TGV Deletes at 139k GrimmSpeed electronic boost control solenoid Power steering flush at 160k New thermostat at 160k New coolant temperature sensor at 160k Coolant flush at 160k TurboSmart recirculating blow off valve TurboSmart wastegate actuator Infamous Performance turbo oil line filter kit Billet SPT battery tie down Billet SPT oil cap Magnetic drain plug Exhaust: Helix crossover pipe, heatwrapped & shrouded Heatwrapped & shrouded OEM manifolds New heatwrapped Invidia catless up pipe at 139k New Invidia catless down pipe at 145k Stainless steel flex joint added to downpipe to allow for exhaust movement SPT v2 cat back exhaust Fuel: Deatschwerks DW65c fuel pump Injector Dynamix top feed injector conversion rails Injector Dynamix 1000cc top feed injectors with correct couplers crimped to factory intake harness Custom fuel lines with multiple dampers Induction: GrimmSpeed TMIC with gold heat reflection tape K&N Typhoon intake Gimmick silicone turbo inlet BNR 18G Turbo Cobb turbo heat shield Driveline: JDM V7 STi 6 speed manual transmission installed at 139k and had under 40k on it then Exedy organic clutch disc at 139k Exedy pressure plate at 139k STi OEM flywheel resurfaced at 139k JDM v2 R160 Mechanical Limited Slip rear differential Custom hybrid axles with new boots rebuilt at 139k New Front & Rear wheel bearings/hubs at 139k Poly shifter bushings at 139k Suspension: RaceComp Engineering Tarmac 1 Coilovers All new OEM front & rear suspension bushings at 139k Perrin 22mm rear sway bar Perrin rear sway bar stiffener brackets Perrin front sway bar New front sway bar bushings at 155k New Group N front sway bar end links at 139k New OEM steering rack boots at 139k New ball joints at 139k Brakes: StopTech front Big Brake Kit New StopTech slotted front rotors at 165k New Hawk street front pads at 165k New rear pads & rotors at 155k Motul brake fluid flush at 165k Interior: AutoMeter boost gauge AutoMeter EGT gauge AutoMeter LED backlight dimmer switch for gauges AEM wideband AFR gauge CubbyPod for boost and AFR gauges DashPod for EGT gauge 2012 STi driver seat (original tan leather seat in very good condition also included) Jazzy stereo input with hardwire for iPhone lightning cable HomeLink auto-dimming rear view mirror with 3 garage door opener buttons Extended armrest Hardwired DashCam Hardwired radar detector power source OEM trunk mat OEM subwoofer OEM rear cargo cover OEM trunk mat 2 sets of keys with remotes New OEM 6sp shift knob at 150k Exterior: 2004 STi BBS goldies 225/45/17 Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires with 65% tread remaining STi style front lip Thule bike rack Lightly tinted windows Hella Supertones I know there are a lot of things that I'm forgetting too! Cons: I can’t say that anything is really wrong with it but I’ll list things that are less than perfect. There are some acorn dings on the roof. There is a black stain on the inside of the hatch trim piece. Some of the plastic interior pieces have nicks and scratches on them in line with a car of this vintage. The body has its share of small imperfections. It looks like a 10 out of 10 at 20 feet but is really an 8 out of 10 when you get up close. However, there is NO rust on the body at all which is incredibly rare for a Subaru of this age. This car is 100% ready to go. I can confidently say that I would drive it across the country tomorrow without worrying at all. The suspension is firm but not uncomfortable like most coilover setups. I retained the factory rubber strut mounts which make a huge difference. Also, the RaceComp Engineering coilovers on this car are made from stainless steel so the collars don't freeze to the threads after one winter. They are totally rebuildable as well. I have taken exceptional care of this car and fixed any issues as soon as they came up. I can say that at this point, I've got the car totally sorted out and it is a real pleasure to drive. It's not loud and obnoxious at all. It drives mildly when you just want to commute smoothly which is how I put the majority of the miles on it. The turbo spools up early with very little lag and it pairs perfectly with the close ratio JDM 6sp to keep the motor in its' powerband. The StopTech big brakes are virtually endless and have lots of bite. The pedal is firm has very little play before the brakes pick up. Shifts are very crisp and there is no grinding or funny noises coming from the gearbox. I am not interested in any trades. Cash, cashiers check or wire only. If you need to get financing for this car, please don't waste my time. Get your money lined up before calling me. I am willing to ship this car at the buyer's expense. No brokers, no low ballers and no scammers. I have always bought cars based on their condition, no their mileage. Mileage only tells part of the story of a car. Although there is 167k on the chassis of this car, every wear item and major component has been replaced or rebuilt with OEM or high quality aftermarket parts within the past 30k. There are no oil leaks. The motor purrs with no knocking, piston slapping, valve ticks or smoke. Since the car is freshly rebuilt, all the fasteners come off easily with no frozen or rusted bolts. Great care was taken in the building of this car. I've got over $30k into this car not including all my labor. The car is located in Danbury, CT near the mall. If this ad is still up, the car is still available.
  5. No EJ255 motor I’ve ever seen has that round gasket. I believe the black rtv is the one for extra oily areas so use that.
  6. It’s very difficult to bleed a slave cylinder in the car. Try taking it out as a unit with line and master and bench bleed it. That way you can get the bleed nipples at the highest point to allow the bubbles to work their way out. From your symptoms it sounds like there’s air in the line. The pedal should feel about 10% firmer than the regular 5sp clutch pedal and grab at the same spot.
  7. I'm having this problem too. Just took tons of pics for a classified ad on my iPhone 7 and they won't upload. Also, I have the "Live" option in the camera app turned off. Is there a fix for this yet? Oh, and why is legacygt.com so opposed to outside pic hosting?
  8. I'd bet your issue has nothing to do with your torque specs. The fact that you're using a torque wrench puts you way ahead of most clutch changers. My first guess is that you're having a throw out bearing/pressure plate finger issue. If you're slipping, then your clutch is slipping between your pressure plate and flywheel. We can confidently say that your flywheel is still bolted to your crank so I'd look for an issue with the clutch form before I pulled the transmission. Pull the slave cylinder and the fork lever plug and rod first to examine the clutch fork. You'll have to pull all this stuff anyway to remove the trans. Pull the clutch fork boot off and shine a flashlight down into the bellhousing to see if anything obvious comes up. Also, take a look at the flywheel cover on the bottom of the trans for any debris that may have gotten stuck in there or broken off of the clutch/pp. Those would be the first steps I would take before pulling the trans. Also, how is your pedal feel since is "popped"?
  9. What wheels are you running here? Size and offset? Looks fantastic.
  10. I'm gonna get back under there this weekend and see what I can see. I had an issue before with my downpipe hitting the trans crossmember because my Megan Racing up pipe was too long so I replaced it with an Invidia. I guess when you piece together all these aftermarket parts, it's no surprise that everything doesn't line up just right.
  11. Question for a 6sp swap guru..... I swapped a v7 6sp into my 05 LGT wagon. It's all in there and working great. The issue I'm having is with my exhaust. I've got an Invidia up pipe, Invidia catless downpipe, BNR 18G turbo and an SPT catback exhaust (v2 I believe). At the flange where the downpipe meets the catback exhaust, that's the 3" two bolt flange, I have a leak. The flanges do not meet up flush. It's like the downpipe is pitched downward creating a gap on the bottom of the flange. I tried massaging the catback flange and using multiple gaskets but it won't seal. I'm wondering if I have the wrong combination of crossmember or trans mounts. I am a 6sp mount from an STi and the trans crossmember from my LGT... if my memory is correct. Has anyone else ran into this issue? Possible solutions? I'm trying to avoid cutting and welding.
  12. Has anyone ran into this problem.. My Invidia catless downpipe does not meet up with my SPT exhaust correctly. I'm getting a big leak around the top of the two flanges. I am running a BNR 18g, Invidia uppipe, OEM legacy gt motor mounts and a v7 impreza STi trans mount. My SPT exhaust is hanging from OEM rubber hangers. I'm wondering if the Spec B trans mount is a bit thinner than the STi one which would drop the rear of the trans a little bit and line up the flanges.
  13. Did they tell you what didn't fit? I swapped a 6sp in my car and used a stock STi 6sp shifter and bought the two rods as directed by this thread. One thing that I didn't find in this thread (it may very well be in here somewhere) is that the reverse lockout cable is not long enough on the stock STi shifter. I had to make an extension to get it to work. I say this because you said that the shop said that it "didn't work" but you didn't mention exactly what didn't work. Maybe the rods are fine and the lockout cable is what's not working. Also, if you purchased the spec b rods and the shifter is what's unknown, just buy a used 6sp shifter. They're relatively cheap and if that solves your problem, then it's worth it. We KNOW that a stock 02-07 STi shifter with spec b rods works in our cars.
  14. Just hit 140k on the chassis. Have just over 800 on the new ej257 block. Running great. No CELs! Have a small oil leak to sort out but not a big deal. Can't wait to tune this thing for power in a few hundred more miles.
  15. Here's the process I used that made this task bearable: (directions are for right side valve cover) A few notes.... While you're in there, you may want to replace your spark plugs. Tools and supplies needed: Floor jack, jack stands (2), hockey pucks (2), 14mm 3/8" drive socket, 3/8" drive universal joint, 3/8" drive extension, 3/8" drive ratchet, 14mm deep socket, 12mm 1/4" drive socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, 10mm 1/4" drive socket, 10mm combination wrench (gearwrench preferably), flathead screwdriver, razor blade, Fujibond or Ultrablack RTV sealant, new valve cover gaskets and spark plug hole gaskets, brake cleaner, oil drain pan, 2' of aluminum foil, pliers, scotchbrite pad, ATF fluid for power steering, oil, patience. 1. Remove engine cover 2. Disconnect MAF 3. Remove airbox or intake (whichever you have) 4. Disconnect power steering hose from reservoir leaving the rubber connecting hose on the reservoir. Take a 1 qt yogurt container, put a small hole near the rim, run a zip tie through and secure the container to the PS res bracket to catch the PS fluid. 5. Jack up front of car but not too high as you'll still need your jack to lift the motor up in a minute. 6. Remove underbody engine cover. 7. Loosen left motor mount about 6 turns but do nor remove nut. 8. Remove right motor mount nut and washer. 9. Loosen transmission mount nuts about 8 turns. 10. Jack up the right side of the motor carefully. Put a block of wood or stack two hockey pucks on the top of your jack and push against the bolt that holds the bottom of the heat shield to the exhaust manifold under the right head. Lift the motor slowly and be careful not to lift too far. When you start to feel some resistance, back of a hair so you're not compressing the motor into the tunnel. 11. Remove the valve cover vent/equalization hoses from the top of the valve cover. Fold them up and out of the way. 12. Unplug the coil packs and pull the zip tie style out of the valve cover. Fold the wires up and out of the way. 13. Remove the coil packs. 14. Place aluminum foil around your up pipe and on top of your exhaust manifold to prevent oil from soaking it when you pull the valve cover. 15. Place an oil catch pan under the right side of the motor. 16. Remove the valve cover bolts. 17. Remove the valve cover. 18. Clean the mating surface of the head. This needs to have ALL gasket maker/RTV/Fujibond removed. It's got to be SPOTLESS. Pull off the big chunks with your hand. Carefully use a razor blade to cut off as much as you can being sure not to score the soft aluminum mating surface. Use a Scotch pad to remove the rest of the gunk. 19. With a clean rag or paper towel soak up any oil that has collected in the bottom of the head. You don't want this dripping on the mating surface before you apply your new RTV. 20. Clean up your valve cover. Carefully clean the channel where the gasket sits. Get it spotless. Spray down the inside and outside of the valve cover with brake cleaner. 21. Rest your new gasket and spark plug hole gaskets in the valve cover channels. 22. Spray some brake cleaner on a clean rag and wipe down the mating surface on the head. Check for any bits of old sealant that may have fallen behind the cam shaft or along the bottom of the head. 23. Apply RTV Ultra Black or Fujibond across the half moon gaskets on the back of the head, along the bottom mating surface, up the cam cap and on the top of the cam cap where it changes elevation. Some spots are hard to reach so you can put a small dap of sealant on your finger and apply it where needed. The most important spots are along the half moons, the corners where the cam cap meets the head and along any elevation changes on the cam caps. 24. Carefully slide your valve cover into place making sure that you didn't unseat your gaskets anywhere. 25. Install your valve cover bolts hand tight. Use a 10mm socket and turn it by hand without the ratchet handle. Be sure to follow the tightening alphabetical sequence shown in the pic above. 26. Let the sealant cure for at least one hour. 27. Tighten the valve cover bolts a little at a time in the alphabetical sequence shown above. You should go around two or three times in the sequence until you feel the bolts bottom out against the head. Tighten to 4.7 ft/lbs or 56 inch/lbs using a torque wrench. I used a 1/4" drive bar style torque wrench. I couldn't get it on one or two of the hard to reach bolts so I had to guess at it using a combination wrench. You'll feel when the bolt has compressed the rubber gasket and bottoms out against the head mating surface. You only want to snug it up a hair more at that point. 28. If you can, leave the car overnight to let the sealant fully cure. 29. Install your coil packs and plug them in making sure to reattach your oxygen sensor wire bracket to the rear coil pack. 30. Reconnect your vent/equalization hoses. 31. Lower the motor off the jack. 32. Tighten your left motor mount and reinstall your left motor mount nut and washer. Torque to spec. 33. Tighten your trans mount nuts. Torque to spec. 34. Remove your PS fluid catch container. 35. Reconnect your PS hose. 36. Top off your PS res to the middle line. 37. Install your airbox/intake. 38. Reconnect MAF sensor. 39. Check your oil. 40. Start car and check for obvious leaks. 41. If no leaks, remove aluminum foil from up pipe and exhaust manifold. 42. Liberally spray down anywhere that has oil on it with brake cleaner both old black gunky oil and fresh oil. Wipe it down and get it as clean as you can. 43. Install lower engine cover. 44. Install top engine cover. 45. Test drive car. 46. Check/top off engine oil and PS fluid. 47. Drink 100 beers. After you've got all this done, you'll probably have some residual oil on your exhaust that's going to smoke as it burns off. Drive the car for a day or two and then get back under there to inspect if you got the job done right. Look for any fresh clean oil coming off the bottom of the head.
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