Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

johnjapan

Members
  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

johnjapan's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Thank you so much! That's super helpful. So far I've only had wiring diagrams (which is all I need in this case) but this has so much more. Before this issue presented I'd been having issues with the secondary air system (I'm actually booked in with Subaru to get it fixed), which seems to run directly off the circuit from the main fuse (MB-33, MB-34). I have an inkling that these two problems are related. I'll have a look down this route and see where it takes me. Thanks again!
  2. OK, so it seems like the 120a main fuse has blown. So I'll get that replaced, though now my thoughts are onto why it has blown.
  3. Since Friday my 2006 Subaru Legacy has been becoming almost completely electrically dead, before eventually starting working again. It started with my dashcam and FM transmitter (both connected to the 12v cigarette lighter socket via a USB adapter) switching off while I was driving. I pulled over to check, and when I tried to switch the car on again nothing happened. . Fast forward to today, I've replaced the battery, and learned a little more about the problem: - It doesn't seem to have anything to do with what's plugged into the 12v socket - I've removed its fuse. This didn't seem likely anyway since the circuit is only live if the engine's on. - It doesn't seem to be a ground fault - I've checked the voltage between the engine body and exposed metal on the car. It's 0 volts. - Things that don't work: remote locking, central locking (via switch inside), interior lights, instrument panel doesn't turn on when the key is moved to the on position or the door is open, door chime. - Things that do work: hazard/warning lights (and corresponding indicator lights on the instrument panel), parking lights, horn, driver seat motor. - It's not a low battery as it when it eventually recovers, it starts by itself. Also, jump starting doesn't make a difference when this happens. Battery terminals are tight, battery is new, alternator was checked by a shop and it's OK. Is this likely to be the main relay, or something else? If the relay, then am I correct in thinking it's behind the glovebox? Thanks!
  4. Thank you. I might not be able to do such a mod over here, but it's good to see the parts involved and where they are.
  5. So Subaru estimated about US$740 (80,000 yen) for repairing this. I'm not exactly sure what work needs doing in particular to resolve the problem. I also had a stall yesterday going forwards (I pulled into a junction and slowed down to let a car pass, only for the engine to stop). Is this likely to be related to the P0410 code? Could it be the EGR valve?
  6. So I took it back to the shop and all they did was clear the code and tell me that it's because the battery is dying. So I took it to a national car maintenance chain and was told that the battery isn't great, but it's OK. They also told me that the cause of the code isn't likely to be the battery - which makes a lot of sense, considering the car would be running on the alternator when running. Anyway, the code is P0410, which my reader tells me is "Secondary air injection system".
  7. So I received my 2006 Legacy Touring Wagon (2.0 GT) on Monday evening and did a fair bit of driving without issues yesterday. I switched the engine on to drive to work this morning (Wednesday) only to find that the check engine light is on, and the Sport/Sport Sharp/Intelligent mode display is flashing on "Sport" and any attempts to switch to S# or I is greeted with 2 beeps but nothing else. Yesterday and also today it has stalled while I've been reversing, despite being an automatic transmission. I do have a warranty with it, but the garage is closed today, and of course I'd like more information about what it could be for myself so that they don't lie to me. I've seen suggestion that it can be the O2 sensor fuse, although on fuse box diagrams I've found online I can't seem to find a fuse for that, nor could I see it on the diagram in the car, although part of that is obscured by a toll card reader. Does anyone know what this problem is likely to be? Thanks in advance.
  8. I wish I could do that! I contacted another salesman about a similar year of the model car, and they wanted an extra 75,000 yen for it (US$700). It's so tough to get a good deal here.
  9. I'm interested in purchasing the following car, but I'm a little concerned about the mileage and timing belt. Sorry, the page is in Japanese. https://autoc-one.jp/used/detail/15103514/ The car has done 87,000 km / 54,000 miles so far. Timing belt (and associated parts) replacement here seems to sit around 100,000 yen / US$930 from asking around. I'm also given to understand that the timing belt should be replaced around 100,000 km / 62,000 miles, so the car isn't really far off that. The salesman (not a Subaru dealer) has stated the a mechanic has checked and the belt is supposedly still in good condition, and he has also stated that the belt should be replaced around 130,000-140,000km (81,000-87,000 miles), but I'm not sure if this is accurate, or if he is just trying to get a sale. What do you guys think? Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use