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Keyan

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  • Location
    Upstate NY
  • Car
    Twin scroll vf37 w/ dual EWGs

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  1. the solterra is just a rebadged Toyota bZ4X, and toyota is not making a ute, so this wont happen.
  2. assuming you've disconnected it from the brake shoes under the rotor, its most likely rust keeping the o-ring on the cable in place. yank hard and repetitively.
  3. probably 3/8 inner diameter. it wouldnt hurt to get multiple sizes from the store, it'll only be a dollar or two each.
  4. if your car is a manual you'll want to get the timing belt shimming tool to set the gap between the crank sprocket and the metal bracket. if your car is a manual it does not have the bracket and the shim tool not needed.
  5. I have not seen one that -also- covers the rear seats when folded down.
  6. the only way to remove a rivet is to drill out the rivet.
  7. theres no way a timing cover leak could cause the engine to leak multiple quarts of oil. it would be everywhere, oil on the road in the driveway, you'd be drawing lines on the ground with an oil drip if it was that bad chances are theres something else going on and the mechanic is blaming the oil leak because "we have to fix this first because its obviously leaking"
  8. i wouldn't worry about it unless after cleaning it you see it a second and third time
  9. incorrect, coolant when boiled is a vapor and heat can not transfer as well when its in vapor form as compared to liquid. boiling coolant is never a normal part of the process. that is why the rad caps apply pressure to the coolant system. higher pressure means a higher boiling point and if you can keep it a liquid then it actually transfers the heat properly.
  10. i dont see what the big deal is that the dealer said the car would need a turbo during a PRE-PURCHASE inspection. the mechanic is covering his ass by telling you its leaking. it may not be a crazy leak but you also didnt pay to have the mechanic take it apart and identify the exact failure component. plus, it is to your benefit to have a mechanic say the car needs a 3400 dollar repair. you get that to negotiate the price lower, where then as an educated car guy can fix it for much cheaper than the mechanic said. sounds win win to me.
  11. id bet theres a mouse in your headliner that ate the power wires that go to the interior light
  12. id guess you either took your measurements wrong, or the valve seats in the head are pushed in causing the valve stems to sit closer to the cams. machine shops can grind the tips of the valves to get you in to spec but i recommend figuring out why the valves are sitting too close first. you don't want to put a band-aid on a broken arm, if you take my meaning.
  13. before doing anything else you should pull codes, i recommend the white connector method which will display not only the engine codes but the abs codes in the combination meter. a simple search should bring up how to do it. the white connectors behind the fuse cover panel by your left knee.
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