Radmandan2

Not a problem, but a precaution as I’m putting in a 320 amp alternator. I’m installing the alternator for some audio equipment. The 320 was on sale so I bought it.

I think I found them the two braided cables coming off both cylinder heads. Not exactly sure though, Any help would be much appreciated. Currently doing my big three upgrade and already did battery to chassis and charging wire. If these two braided cables are the ones I need to upgrade what type of wire should I use? I used 1/0 gauge for both the charging cable and battery.

Thank you for your concern for my hearing, i appreciate that. 2)The amp is wired with 0 gage wire both positive and negative. Interesting development today - we installed a 1000cca battery to test the difference to see if that was the main issue. While it did improve the peak before cutting out it didn't solve the issue. Another thing he thought it possibly might be is the positive connector that connects to the terminal itself being to loose or somehow being screwy i guess. So next time i see him with the improved battery we are going to replace those connectors entirely. the positive may be the issue, as we connected my battery back to it and torqued the posi down very tight worked for a few seconds then started to cut out again. So this whole issue might have been that the connector was not right when we put the 1000 cca battery on. Anyhow Progress has been made, 1)he tested the battery on a snap on battery tester and was healthy i believe only having lost 1 amp from the 375 it originally had. now 374 3) The positive is connected to the connector screwed d He actually upgraded the ground wire that connects to my neg terminal. The positive is correctly fused. Another weird thing is the startup voltage dropped i think it was about 11.4 at the amp connection when just turning the ignition from 12.4 i think up front... https://imgur.com/a/RKpl5g2 : shows where the power wire hooks too. (https://www.virustotal.com/gui/url/b1fe915b01bd095afa1ab5ce7ed4acc46e5ef730294047822ba45ef37287a51b/detection) the amp is dropping the startup voltage by a full volt, i forget the actual #'s i will call him tomorrow and put those up here. We called hifonix and the guy we had on the line was no help unfortunately. That dropping of a full volt confused the hifonix guy aswell. it just doesn't make any sense that its the amp though as it happened with another amp granted it was the same model but that same amp works just fine in my brothers car.

well that would make sense, but everyone i have talked to and the research ive done suggest that it would just put more stress on the charging system which is already maxed so from what ive researched it wouldnt even be able to charge. I appreciate the suggestion and will do some more research.

When i asked the Apex people they said that it is compatible with my car and wont trip an engine light. i also found this manufacturer thru another subaru legacy owner with a 3.6 r on one of my earlier post. he said he had one of theres installed with no issues but it was a 3.6 so i guess i dont know for sure. Again if your still reading, thanks Rad.

Well, its a complicated story, but I have two 15" nvx subwoofers hooked up to a Hifonix brutus brx 3016.1 d amplifier wired at 2ohms 2000 watts max rated. (side note: in test on youtube the current pull at 2ohms to 1% thd was 128.4 amps, my stock alternator puts out 130 amps at full load. on the dynamic test which fits the music i listen too the amp pulled 150.3 amps. so i figure by that, i could use the alternator anyway and or that could be the whole issue.) I'm having an issue where the volts to the amplifier are dropping and causing the amp to go into protect mode. I had the system installed at connected car audio in NH. He's been in the business a long time, but who knows what that means. He does seem very knowledgable though, and i did not have any issues with the system until ab 8 months after the install i brought it back to him and he changed the ground location and it was working fine apparently but then it got home and stopped working again. (this is the most recent occurence) Another interesting little quirk ab it was that when it first happened i switched out my brand new hifonix amp (which worked for 8 months) with my brothers old one (same model) it worked fine until the amp combusted and smoked till dead, ab 5 days later. after ab 2 months, I bought another brx 3016.1 d and it worked fine for a couple of days then the same issue arose again although this time the amp did not blow up and still is working. My thought on that is that the amp was probably used to his system in a way or it was just being under powered. The first thing that comes to mind is a new battery deep cycle 800cca optima yellowtop havnt ordered that though as i have to fabricate a new battery tray. the reason i think it may be the battery not having enough power is because after i take the positive off for a while (a few weeks) they seem to work for a bit at any volume, not always at full, but as i explained after ab two months of no extra load they worked for three days no limit. at this point they are working at a low level less than 25% of what they should be able to run at. whenever i go any higher the amp cuts in and out. Anyway the alternator stock is clutched and runs at 130 amps at full capacity. i also just wanted piece of mind in the future because i did have dimming issues beforehand when the system was running. The alternator was also on a 200 and some odd # sale so i sent it. I apologize for the long winded response, but I'm just trying to give you all the details, im really in a tough spot here unfortunately and any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you, Austin.

I’m installing an apex alternator 320 amp in my 2016 Subaru Legacy 2.5 l. They said you could get a Ecu tune to raise the idle, but it isn’t required. I’m just wondering what the trade offs are if I don’t get the tune? Could the car end up not running correctly without it? Also wondering how much it would cost doing something like that would be for a car that doesn’t have many mods made for it. If you have any thoughts or suggestions that’d be greatly appreciated Thanks, have a great day -Rad 12/5/19 --- Interesting development today - we installed a 1000cca battery to test the difference to see if that was the main issue. While it did improve the peak before cutting out it didn't solve the issue. Another thing he thought it possibly might be is the positive connector that connects to the terminal itself being to loose or somehow being screwy i guess. So next time i see him with the improved battery we are going to replace those connectors entirely. the positive may be the issue, as we connected my battery back to it and torqued the posi down very tight worked for a few seconds then started to cut out again. So this whole issue might have been that the connector was not right when we put the 1000 cca battery on.

I’m powering a hifonix Brutus running at 2 ohms ab 2000 watts rms for two 15” nvx subs. I have the stock 130 amp but I believe it’s wearng out after ab a year. The 130 obviously wasn’t enough in the first place, so I’m trying to upgrade. I’m gonna look into the apex company greenlantern recommended.

I’ve been doing some research, but have had no luck finding a higher output alternator. Preferably I’m looking for at least 180 amps, not sure if that’s even possible with the 2.5. Any help would be appreciated, thanks - Rad

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Hi, wondering if anyone knows of a way to get the chrome side trim on the rocker from the 2017 legacy to the 2016 legacy. Edit: found that there rocker panel moldings, really just wondering if the bottom rocker molding in the picture would fit on a 2016 legacy? I found a website to get them but don’t know which one would have the chrome trim on it. https://www.oempartsinc.com/oem-parts/subaru-rocker-molding-96051al03ann?origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjwk7rmBRAaEiwAhDGhxLxHtvsLHJs257AIYnHd-HiZkcZcuegyUhdKfYZtSGUMQbSOIEfn0hoCTaUQAvD_BwE Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk