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06-XT-Owner

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About 06-XT-Owner

  • Birthday 06/14/1970

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  • Location
    Ohio
  • Car
    06 XT
  • Interests
    Old cars
  • Occupation
    Retired

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  1. I had an axle stuck in the rear hub on one and beat on that thing for 3 days. I used heat and any other method I could think of or find on the internet to get it out. I finally found a video that said to use a large hammer drill/chisel with a pointed tip on the chisel setting and that finally did the trick. I ended up replacing the entire hub because I beat on it so hard that I bent the hub assembly. Good luck. That can be a frustrating job. Tom
  2. Your video shows your security light being lit when the car won't start. Have you tried a different key? Seems to me to be something with the theft system. Maybe I'm missing something, but that seems to be the first place I'd start. If the security light goes out and it still does it, then it has to be something simple like a relay. Keep us updated. Tom
  3. How did you replace the torque converter? Did you pull the engine? If so, I think I remember that torque converter being held in place by a snap ring on the inside of the transmission or front diff. I'd be interested in knowing what method you used to swap it out. Glad you got it resolved and glad that you posted what it was for future searchers. Tom
  4. I'm thinking that you have a clogged banjo bolt filter causing oil starvation to the turbo, causing the turbo seal to go out? Those mesh filters are very fine, but I agree that taking the OCV out and hooking it up to 9V to check it is the way to go. If it operates freely and is clean, you need to look at that filter. As far as the oil smoke, seems too much of a coincidence that it'd smoke that much and throw a code as well. Keep us updated, and I'd check the shaft play on the turbo. You should have some play, but if it's enough to rub the housing....time for a new turbo. Keep us updated.
  5. Thanks for those posts. My daughter was the primary driver of this car for a while and she works 3 miles from home. So that would all make sense. Since that stuff is primarily in the valve cover (and in the larger of the 2 PCV hoses coming off the valve covers, would a catch can help? I'm considering routing that larger hose into a catch can on that side of the engine to possibly help out with this issue, although I'll be driving it longer distances now that I'm the primary driver. My daughter is back to driving the 01 Outback that she likes better because it's a 5-speed. Go figure. (insert image of proud dad picture here). Tom
  6. Given that my filters were dirty, I'm beginning to think it could have been an oil flow problem, or just the one cam being a tooth off that caused those codes. The more likely cause is the tooth off, as when the VVT advanced, the computer saw two different readings from the cam sensors and since it didn't know which was correct, it could have thrown both codes. That just a theory, but now that I've removed the banjo filters and am in the process of adjusting the valves with different buckets, I'll put the engine back together and see what happens. I'm going to pressure test the coolant system with then engine out and see if I have any leaks. If it holds pressure, then I'll assume the cold weather is the cause of the white gunk and I'll run my PCV hoses through a jar to see what's happening there.
  7. Underdog, Both of the banjo bolt filters were still there, and both were dirty, although not so bad that it would prevent oil flow. The oil lines between the banjo bolts are clean. The white gunk appears contained in the larger PCV hose and that one valve cover. The OCV valves are clean. I read your article about taking apart the intake cam gear, but I don't think I'm ready to dive that deep into it.....that last question about the cam gear was directed to your expertise. How can one tell if it's stuck in the open position? Tom
  8. Thanks for that apexi. It's very cold up here right now, and my daughter was driving this car, and only making very short trips (less than 3 miles) to work and home. I may route my PCV hoses to a jar and see what happens. At least until the weather warms up, but I'm also going to try to pressure test the coolant system while the engine is out of the car. I'm blocking off the upper and lower radiator hose connections along with the heater core connections. I'll fill it with water and apply some pressure to the system and see if it holds. If it doesn't, I'll start tracking down the leak. If it holds, then I'll have to assume that your theory is correct and hopefully, my catch jar will allow me to catch the white crap. I'll then drive it until summer and then pull the valve cover off again and see if the white stuff has returned. Any ideas on how to check the cam gear to see if it's returning to it's home position?
  9. Very cool idea. Thanks for that. That's my kind of solution for a problem instead of spending $200 for a specialized tool. Tom
  10. Thanks. I posted it over there. We'll see if I get any hits.
  11. Here is what I found when I pulled the valve cover off my EJ255 (2006). I recently replaced the head gaskets, and had the heads pressure tested at the machine shop. Any ideas where else that much moisture could be entering into my oil system? Also, any suggestions on how to troubleshoot it with the engine out of the car? The oil and pan are both clean and I don't think I'm losing coolant. At least not in the last 1000 miles since doing the head gaskets. I posted this same question over in the Outback Forums, but since it's an EJ255, I figured there be more people floating around over in this area. Thanks for any ideas. Tom
  12. Underdog....I think my codes were from my driver's side intake cam being a tooth off, therefore the ECU seeing a difference in the two intake gears. That's the best I can guess without being for certain. I'm going to pop those two cam gears off tomorrow and pull that oil line from the front of the head to the OCV and check for clogs. Do you have a link to your DIY priming tank? I think I'm a little more concerned with the condensation in my valve cover at this point. I'm trying to figure out the best way to test for water intrusion into the oil system with the engine out of the car. Tom
  13. Let's see if this picture-link works. If not, sorry. I'm a moron.
  14. Here's an update. I pulled the oil pan today, and it's clean. No debris, no shavings, all is clean. I also pulled the valve covers off to check my valve clearances, and all of those were good. Two of the intake valves were a little tighter than the rest, but a .007 feeler gauge slipped right in whereas a .008 would not. So I'm guessing all is well there. I think allowable is .0071 to .0087 or something like that. Now for the not-so-good finding. I do have quite a bit of white gunk in my driver's side valve cover. I'm obviously getting some moisture into my oil someplace and it's collecting in the valve cover. Any ideas on this? Since I have 2 vent hoses on each valve cover, is there a way to redirect those into a container of some sort and monitor what's going on there? Can someone help me understand those hoses? I'll try to post a picture below Tom
  15. Thanks for those replies. I do have a BlueDriver scan tool that I can track live data, but I'm not sure if it will read the OCV duty cycle and VVT. I've never tried to do those. Here is an update. I pulled the engine as I want to check my valve clearances since I didn't know to do that when I replaced the headgaskets. I may be asking more questions concerning that task. I found that my driver's side intake cam was off by 1 tooth. I'm pretty good about making sure the timing marks are dead on and rotating the engine a few times by hand when I replace a timing belt, so that is bothersome. I wonder why it's off. Did it skip or maybe I really was off a tooth and didn't notice, but I'll do better when putting it back together this time. My rear main seal has a very slight leak, so I'll replace that while I'm in there, and I'll reseal the oil separator plate and put a new o-ring on the wrist pin access plate also. Why not do it when the engine is out. My turbo seems to have slightly more side-to-side play than I remember it having, but it still doesn't move in/out. How much side-to-side play is too much? It's not rubbing the housing edges, but it's getting close. I would estimate 1/16" play from pushing it all the way from one side to the other. When pushed towards the edge, it probably has about .004 clearance between the housing and fins. Don't these things have a little play when there's no oil pressure or am I just being hopeful? Lol. All the advice is appreciated. More to follow tomorrow when I pull the valve covers and oil pan. Tom
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