camvan122

Hey guys, came across something ive never experienced today, looked across the forums, and haven't found anything close to it, so here we are. So I picked up my car from my Tuner (Taylordtuning) after doing a whole rebuild. I also had Rallispec rebuild my transmission. When I picked the car up I couldn't get into reverse, I thought I was being a dumbass just not driving the car in awhile, but I realized that in order to go in reverse, you now, CANT pull the lock out, and in order to get into 5th and 6th grade you HAVE to pull the lock out up. So they have literally been swapped. Also when I was in 5th or 6th, it wouldn't do it every time, the front of the car would almost bounce around, I would literally see my Cars RPMs bounce/fluctuate 150-200 RPMs back and forth. I full well plan on calling Rallispec to see what the hell they did. But has anyone ever had this issue before? Thanks, Cam

Correct, had this laying around for about 8-9 months and didn't get around to doing the build due to waiting for other various parts due to Covid, only thing I could do is sell it on the private market, and buy the other one, but I decided to ask this question, and see if anyone had experience with this and if it would be compatible first, before doing so.

So my question for you all. It CLEARLY wasn't my brightest moment. Not sure whether I was distracted, not paying attention. Not sure... But I accidentally purchased the wrong Master Gasket set from Cometic along with my TiC stg2+ short block along with the stock B25 Heads Link to Gasket Set... https://www.importimageracing.com/products/pro2048c-cometic-street-pro-gasket-kit-subaru-sti-2008-2021 My question is, does anyone have any experience with this gasket set, are there parts of it I can use, none of it I can use, or am I going to be forced to start from scratch and purchase the entire OEM Subaru Master Gasket set for the build. Thanks guys!

Are there any notable differences between the D25 heads, and the B25 heads in terms of capability that come with the 257/255 respectively?

Hey all, currently in the rebuild process of my car, it's my first time doing all of the work hands-on, and I know somewhat what I am looking for, but I cannot find the issue of the failure, so I am looking for a second opinion. Quick substory of what happened.... Car is stage 1 pro tuned, in other words, catback/intake, other then that, car is completely stock. So a couple of weeks ago, I was cruising, rowing through the gears, and did a flat-out 4th gear pull. Before I know it, the car completely choked, and I began to hear what I THOUGHT was major grinding of the turbine against the housing, and the infamous blade whine noise. I would have bet $50k that the VF-46 blew, it does after all have 136k miles on it. So I was like well, dam, sucks but time for an upgrade anyway. I drove the car home, with no CEL light, but at idle, the AFR ratio jumped up to 18.0-20.0 mark, obviously extremely lean. Parked the car, drained the oil some metal in there, but nothing immediately frightening. I pulled the tmic, dp/up off, and pull out the VF-46, here is the catch. ALMOST ZERO shaft play, the housing and the turbine look PERFECT especially for the mileage and age of the turbo. At this point, between the serious lack of power of the car, the whining noise (extremely useless and vague I know, but sorry, not sure else how to describe it.) that sounds like the tubine hitting the housing, and the lean air-to-fuel ratio when Idling in neutral, and the lack of a check engine light, I'm not sure what other type of failures I should be looking for. The car doesn't lose any oil, headgasket/PCV were fine, and no smoke out of the tail pipe so I wouldn't think it to be a piston#4 taking a dump. Just looking for some insight on what other failure I should most likely be looking for. Regardless I have my stage2+ TIC Shortblock that will be going in the car soon. Thanks for your help!

Hey guys, not exactly sure how to post this as an official sale post, so my apologies. on my 2008 Spec. B, selling my Invidia Q300 Catback Exhaust, I absolutely love this thing, it's perfect, however turning this thing into a track car with built block, big turbo, etc... want something a bit more free-flowing. Exhaust has about 30k miles on it, I will take pictures later tonight when I get home, it's in excellent condition, with absolutely 0 rusting/scratches. I live in the Chattanooga, Tennessee area, accepting offers, willing to ship, feel free to contact me here, or by email Thanks, Cam Camvandergriff@gmail.com

Koyorad SC radiator is already in there about 5k miles in. Gasket set, TB and CP are all in the order with the short block. And the Studs they offer for with the short block are extremely expensive to have them do. Would much rather purchase the studs and do it myself if i were to do that.

EL Headers are definitely to come.in the future. Unfortunately budgeting money aside for unexpexted surprises during the installatiom/tuning process is more of a prioriy at the moment.

440XT was one of my top 3, maybe 4 choices for turbo choice, and quite often made my number one as I was swapping my mind back and forth, but I just had my heart set on going with a Garret, how is it holding up for you? any issues, or things you don't like about it that you wish you would have known about before?

Pretty sure I want to go an EWG for this car as plans are for this to be a track car soon as this is just the beginning stage for the first "power level" that I want to do, so it is more of a long term investment. As far as the FMIC goes, I was looking at the AVO or the TurboXS as I heard the quality of the core is overall very good, and fitment can be fixed by trimming the bumper, I figured manual labor on my part was worth saving the $500-700 (depending on details I chose from ETS.) from buying the ETS FMIC although I do understand it is the #1 option for these cars. As car as the downpipe, the only reason I was going catless was just me being greedy for the price more than anything, so I suppose there is no real excuse for me other than just trying to save money. At least I'm honest

Ah, was not aware that, that could be an issue, thank you for the advice! And yes, indeed I am aware of the machining costs, decided not to include services/labor in this page as I just wanted strictly hardware since those are purchases that people can change recommendations on, but unfortunately, services are universal. HG kit is already ordered, along with a new water pump/timing belt so I don't believe I am forgetting anything there. What is the average cost (I know this fluctuates greatly on many variables.) on having your stock heads resurfaced?

Hey all, there are numerous build pages with numerous opinions, facts, situational components to meet people's standards etc... However, as this is my very first "big boy" build, I wanted to get people's opinions on things I might be forgetting, or changes they would make to the build and I would like to hear reasons why. First off, the build I am about to list I am well aware can make more power, but I am very much a believer of buying it right, buy it once, and I don't want anything to be pushed to its limits so I can get more out of it later if I wish, and increase its reliability in the process, so here it goes. As of right now, I have an 08 Legacy GT Spec. B, with 131xxx miles on it. All it currently has on it, and has had for the past 40k miles or so, is a GS CAI, with an Invidia Q300 CBA. Currently Pro E-tuned from Dave at Cryotune Performance which was more than an amazing experience working with those guys, they're awesome. Stoptech Street/Race pack Brake Pads, along with StopTech Cryo Rotors. These haven't been on for more than 10k miles and I believe will be perfect for this setup, along with a set of Pirelli P-Zero All Season Plusses, (245/45/18) Also I have an Exedy Stage 1 Organic Race HD Clutch that is capable of handling up to 472lbf⋅ft. This setup has been perfect for a DD, but I am wanting much more out of it now, and I am well aware of the jump I am making. Also due to me having the notorious bulletproof 6-speed trans, I will be keeping it completely as is until there are more than the 5 rare instances of something terribly wrong going with this setup. Here goes. 1. RalliSpec's StreetSpec EJ-25 Shortblock~ $2995 (Reason I am going with this one instead of IAG stage 1 block is they use OEM 257 Rods from earlier years, and JE Pistons which would do more than what I need, but the Rallitec Block happens to be cheaper, use Manley pistons (2618 material which I happen to have more experience with.) and forged rods. Between the combination of Forged Rods compared to OEM, Manley Pistons compared to JE, and a cheaper price, this is the route I am most likely going to choose. Quick Summary, contains • salt bath nitride hardened crankshaft running in King XPG race-series bearings. •Connecting Rods SouthAmerican 4340 Forgings with a H-Beam Design. •ARP 2000 Rod Bolts, (Would like to have Studs, but oh well, these will definitely do.) Rod's of this quality usually aren't found in Short blocks under 3k anyways, (Not that $2995 isn't 3k lol.) •Manley Pistons with 2618 Material matched to the bores. •All block hardware including pin access plugs, covers, and the rear main seal is included. •According to RalliSpec. "This short block is warrantied against defects during the initial startup period." Which is nice. 2. ID 1050x Injecors~ $520 Not much to say here, could go 1300CC, but don't need them for what I have planned, maybe in the future. 3. AEM 320 LPH E85 Pump~ $115 4. AEM Electronics Adjustable High Capacity Fuel Pressure Regulator~ $131 5. Cobb's Flex Fuel Package~ $800 (Contains Ethanol Sensor Kit, and the Pressure Sensor Kit.) 6. Torque Solution Top Feel FRails~ $150, Probably not needed but doing the whole fuel system anyways, figured might as well. 7. Perrin's Turbo Inlet~ $283. 8. Perrin's MAF Hose~ $89 9. Turbo, here is the fun part, I thought LONG and hard about this, who wouldn't? I'm deciding to go with a GT3076R, plenty of quick spool time, plenty of power, plenty of reliability, and will allow a little bit more room to grow in the future if I wish. Also, the big pro is it's one of the cheaper turbos, and it's a ball bearing turbo for the quicker spool. $1106 10. AVO's Front Mount IC/Kit, $899 Could definitely go Grimspeed Top Mount, but between the advantages of Front Mount, and it is so sexy, just gotta go with this option instead, PLUS it's cheaper! 11. Cobb's Tuning Boost Solenoid~ $115 Not much to explain here, they all do the same. Just choose your favorite brand Ig. Or allow your OCD to take over? 12. Uppipe/EWG~ Grimspeed and Turbosmart 38/40mm EWG 2 Bolt Coated Uppipe Wastegate Kit~ $702 Now we get into a bit of territory where I'm unsure and might need a bit of help. Not sure if this is my best option or not, or if there are cheaper options that will do a perfectly fine job of what I am needing to do. 13. Crawford Single Chamber AoS V2 Kit~ $356 IAG or Crawford, can't go wrong with these two. 14. Cusco Rear 21mm Sway Bar~ $216 I actually have been rolling around without a swaybar for about 6k miles because we broke the bolt and I was too lazy to go get a new one because I knew I would probably be doing this soon LOL. Let me tell you... Squiiiiirley on 2nd gear slide turns 15. Cobb's Short Throw 6MT shifter Along with their Shifter Bushings. ~ $215/$40 ($265 total.) 16. Downpipe Invidia Catless Divorced Wastegate~ $316 This and the UpPipe/EWG I may need some help with, I think I want to go Catless, I'm prepared for the smell, and the raspiness, but I do however see that there are multiple Invidia Catless models FOR THE MANUAL Trans and would like to see if anyone knows the differences between all of them and if anyone has any objections as to why I should change my downpipe choice. 17. Subaru 2.5l Oil Pump 11mm~ $200. Not sure if I should go get the 12mm or bigger if anyone has any recommendations would be much appreciated. 18. NGK Iridium Spark Plugs 2309~ $44.80, Figured might as well do these while doing all the other crap. All of this comes up to a Subtotal of around $9302.80. I am well aware I can do a 400whp/400torque build for much cheaper but as I said I am trying to do this right, and do this once, hence why I am sharing my build to see if anyone can think of anything I am crucially missing or anything that I should change, this is my first post so apologies for it being such a long one. As I said, Cold Air intake, CBA, brake pads/rotors/clutch are all already done along with quite a decent set of tires, though I will probably be changing those soon. I await everyone's thoughts, thank you all so much!