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jaylew

I Donated Too
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jaylew last won the day on January 23

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  • Location
    Massachusetts
  • Car
    2005 Legacy GT Limited Wagon
  • Occupation
    EE

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    I talk too much

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  1. My wife was not impressed when I read her this comment out loud haha!
  2. thank you for the gentle encouragement to spiral out of control. I can stop you at the suspension refresh rabbit hole....I already did that about 20k miles ago. The chasis is basically new, hence the desire to update the engine. Also the reason to not go buck wild on this is I also desire to get more wagons and a kei truck, which requires money, amongst other hobbies haha
  3. @Max Capacity Your build will be quite close to mine. It is definitely one I followed / will be following. Just thought I'd open up to more input (the "while I am in there" equivalent of research) @NORULZleggy I will likely stay vf40, given I already have that on hand / have a spare. Also with what Jmp can whip up, I think it'll perform just as well if not better than a stock VF52. Good to know about the GSC parts. I am not really familiar with what upgrades to do in the heads vs replace with stock @SubOperator thanks for the detail. Up pipe already catless. good to know on the DOM for the seal kit. Water pump will be replaced with new timing belt. Oil pump, idk do I get a new one or keep the existing one? all motor/trani mounts are ~20k miles old. Starter is ~40k miles old. Clutch is stock exidy wrx smfw ~20k old. I might swap that for the same unit Max has. His clutch pedal felt way lighter than mine. Engine harness has had any plastic conduit removed and replaced by the high heat tessa tape, and wrapped in a heat blanket. Connectors can be repined if they break (already done on some of the connectors). Thanks for the tooling offer. We'll see what I need. I do have a hoist and engine stand...this is my second high mileage subaru, these are a necessity haha @utc_pyro hey any knowledge is useful. thanks for the info on the intercooler. I do have a lower mileage stock unit that isn't blown out yet (thanks Max Cap for the hook up). Maybe sticking stock for now and then going full bore into the air to water cause that would be awesome.
  4. Yeah, just because of regulation changes hindering COBB and alike, I will try to stick to open source
  5. @seanyb505 There will be plenty of "while I am in there" stuff I am sure. If I were a betting man (which I am not) my budget will likely go over by $500-$1000. For science reasons, I plan to do a compression/leak down before I fire up the parts cannon. Who knows, could throw this whole plan up in the air. I'll have to see what kind of shape my current heads are even in before I worry about rebuilding the existing ones or looking elsewhere @blackobxt my bad. Like I said, I was quickly throwing this together to just get it going so I am not doing all my deliberating the night I start placing parts orders. It was a shotgun of people tagging so bound to still be missing people that would be good contributors haha @Enlight The engineer in me has been wanting to do the compression/leak down for the longest time. The scarredy cat in me has been putting it off for 5 years. Easier to stick my head in the ground and just keep adding oil every 300 miles. Its gotten me by for the past 60k miles haha @m sprank 265k on original motor. I agree on the studs argument. For what I am doing, bolts will be a good limiting factor for me to not get the itch to get greedy on power numbers once I feel a fully fresh motor haha. Yeah the more I think about it the AOS is likely overkill for a stock motor. I want to do it right, so the "bring it back to new" mentality is definitely there @boxkita about 20k miles ago, when I had the motor out for new clutch, I replaced all vacuum lines, pcv lines, fuel lines, and coolant lines (including the hard pipe that crosses over top the header). All coolant lines that run anywhere near the exhaust is covered now in a heat protective wrap. Just to stop the rubber from getting brittle too quick, and prevent that crossover pipe from classically rusting out from all the heat cycling. All of this will carry over to the new motor given the young age of the components used. @KZJonny You can't be giving away my secrets! I am one of the few LGT's that can roll coal haha Thank you everyone for the input thus far. I have updated my first post to reflect some of the feedback!
  6. Yeah the whole goal is to continue to enjoy the car for as many miles as possible. The work I have done to the chassis deserves to have a motor to match. I have never known this car to have full stock power or a normal oil consumption rate...somehow with these set backs I have been convinced to stick with the car knowing what it could be haha
  7. i was hoping to avoid a SB build, even if it is with stock bottom end components. Not really inclined for forged anything at this point since I believe staying stock will more than suffice for my goals (i could be wrong and am willing to be proved otherwise!)
  8. thanks for the input. I had the thought in the past of doing the heating mod...just forgot to add it to the list. Thanks for reminding me! And thank you for the hoses. I have all new OE PCV hoses on the current motor. Roughly 18k miles on them. We'll see how they are doing given how much oil I consume with the current motor (I am assuming its oil circulating through the PCV system from worn rings
  9. So, I am planning on getting a new SB and refresh the heads as a 20th birthday for my car. That is the high level thought process. I would like to get input from others on the details. I will list wants / needs and update as the peanut gallery chimes in. Expectations: Stay relatively stock and happy. 250-300 crank HP. Nothing crazy that is beyond the stock numbers these motors see from factory. I wish to have a fun more reliable (I know wrong platform for reliable) daily driver. I am not looking to break the bank (again I know, wrong platform for this thought). $3-4k all said and done. Its a 3 season princess. The moment there is potential for road salt, she gets put in the garage. Shopping list - Type RA or normal EJ257 short block - Refreshed heads (send off existing ones to machine shop) to what extent, idk. I am all ears for what to do to heads that have 265k on them. - new head bolts or studs. I wouldn't go oversized if I went studs. I am leaning towards head bolts as it doesn't mess with the expected stress/strain of the motor requiring a new hone - upgraded oil pan and pick up (killer B, IAG, moroso) - Jmp refreshed VF40 turbo let him do his magic to refresh a tired turbo. Not sure how crazy to go given my goals - stock side feed injectors (send old ones out for clean and checking) doesn't require a whole conversion process to top feed with no real benefit given my power level goals - upgrade fuel pump maybe AVO unit or AEM-50-1215 - Solid turbo inlet pipe I like the solid ones over other types but not needed. Just any new inlet pipe even OE is good - cylinder 4 heating mod for reliability. I know it doesn't cool anything down, but just makes the temps more consistent for better tuning - stock headers - intercooler Likely go some used AVO style. I have had the thought of doing an air-to-water intercooler that still goes in the stock location. Could be a project down the line. I like the idea of consistent intake temps no matter what - new AVCS gears and oil control valves again I want it to be reliable and not worry - new coil packs for reliability sake - maybe new throttle body again reliable and not worry about worn out potentiometer of an old throttle body - AOS maybe this is more for peace of mind but with a pretty stock set up it might be overkill - fluid damper crank pully - new coolant/oil heat exchanger maybe delete and go just oil cooler. This is a 3 season car - refresh all fuel lines and evap around the gas tank (it needs to be done regardless) - maybe the fuel pump wiring upgrade though that can be done at anytime - STI fuel pressure regulator upgrade - all rubber hoses new already done to the original motor, and will carry over to the new motor - AFR and Boost Gauge I plant to fit them in the cubby of the dash so I don't have to stare at them all the time. Maybe a multi display type gauge so I can add on other parameters down the line and keep it a simple form factor @JmP6889928 @boxkita @m sprank@tysparks81@Max Capacity@Enlight@Infosecdad@KZJonny@Scottydunno@Code@seanyb505@BoozeRS05@Febreze Mee@Gex@utc_pyro@Underdog@SubOperator@DoctorDaveLGT@solidxsnake *if I am missing any good possible contributors please tag them so that I can include them in the fun. I was quick to set up this thread so I stop procrastinating and can get to actually planning instead of being all talk with no walk. I would like as much input from you all as possible!* Thank you ahead of time for any input!
  10. All this talk of the kit. My only suggestion to do the job totally right, would be to re-pin both connectors so that there is not any soldering nor bottle neck of remaining smaller gauge wire. True pin to pin larger gauge wire upgrade
  11. lol I did the same. Except i had the whole subframe out so I wasn't on my back doing it. Like you said, anti- seize goes along way in addition to new bolts. There is always a next time! Rest assured, you're not alone
  12. If @KZJonny backs out of the injectors, I could be interested, but first come first serve, they currently have his name on em. Otherwise, if anyone has the new WRX 6 speed for a reasonable price, I would be interested ill keep that in mind. the shipping and hassle to get it out here might be the killer but who knows as I tally up my engine build
  13. I'll get that started and tag those who will be helpful...leave out those who just want to see my wallet burn haha
  14. I know I said I would go new SB...but this is tempting. What would the damage be for that? I still need to figure out how much I'd add on to my build in addition to the new SB to know what my running cost might be (i.e. do i keep stock oil pan, stock head bolts, replace the 265k oil pump, etc)
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