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jcaroth

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    Boston, MA
  • Car
    2008 LGT 5EAT

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  1. If you use the signal converter posted above, you'll also need a way to convert the 12V DC power from the car to 5V (which is the USB standard voltage that the converter runs on). DC-DC converters are relatively cheap, and I agree you should tap into the same power feed you used for the camera itself.
  2. You could put an aftermarket subwoofer in there. Before you spend any money, though, make sure the woofer you buy is designed to run "infinite baffle." Also a good idea to make sure it clears those black crossbars
  3. Did this mod over the weekend. One of the best writeups I've ever seen - made the process a breeze! Thanks a ton. ...wish every mod was this easy...
  4. Yep, sorry. Bought one from Enlight.
  5. Looking to do a sound system upgrade, need that JDM double din setup. Lemme know if you are willing to part with it, thanks.
  6. Oh no... I'd recommend doing an oil change and looking for metal flakes in the oil, because you need to figure out exactly how much got damaged when the last owner blew a turbo before unloading the car onto you. FWIW, I had P0011 last winter and it went away with a new OCV (I didn't bother swapping and checking for P0021, I just replaced both).
  7. '08's do indeed have a filter on the banjo bolt under the turbo (this was the last major work I did on my car). Easiest way to get to it is by removing the inlet, as others have mentioned.
  8. Finally got around to fixing the burst line about 2 weeks ago. Wasn't too hard, all things considered. I definitely recommend getting a good flaring tool, so you don't have to stop halfway through and get a ride to the store for a new one. Also be warned, the AutoZone tool I bought at first was hot garbage. NAPA had a better version, but none looked as nice as the inline-style tool others have recommended on this thread. For some reason I can't get my pics to upload ("Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing"), so I threw up an imgur album for anyone interested: https://imgur.com/gallery/SqZFj It looks like my line didn't blow at the two-way connector, but instead where the rubber coating was removed from the rear lines to connect them to the car. It would be a pretty simple thing to check for most anyone on this forum, so I'd suggest taking a peak next time you're under your car.
  9. Thanks for documenting your process, it's a preview of coming attractions for me. Were you able to inspect the rear left line to verify that it hasn't rusted out like the right side, or are you just trusting that it should be fine because it's protected from the elements on top of the gas tank? I would also like to avoid dropping the tank if possible...
  10. I believe the connections into the 2-way connector (part number 26534AA000) are metric. Also, it might be worth replacing that while you're in there, it's only about $12 from the dealer.
  11. Did they replace both entire brake pipes or just splice in some new line to the connector inside the car?
  12. I meant to say that if your car has been inspected under the first recall but NOT the second recall (so sometime between March 2013 and July 2014), you could still have them replace the brakelines under the second recall. My car was inspected in August 2013 and November 2014, so Subaru is unwilling to do anything more for me. Also, yes. Carfax should display this info. I also called up the dealer who did all the work on the car before I bought it and they sent over their entire service history for the vehicle. It confirmed that my car was inspected and sprayed twice, but nothing was ever replaced.
  13. Yeah, this is the route I plan to go if I keep the car. It's pretty simple for the center brake pipe, but the rear pipe that runs over the gas tank might not have enough room to get in there and splice anything. I'll have to confirm which pipes are leaking before anything else, but that's going to wait until I sort out my new transmission problem.
  14. Yeah, I've done a lot of research and there are actually two separate recalls for this problem on the 4th gens: March 2013 - NHTSA Recall #13V110 (Subaru Recall ID WQG-43) for Brake Line Corrosion July 2014 - NHTSA Recall #14V311 (Subaru Recall ID WQK-47) for Brake Line Corrosion, superseding Recall WQG-43 and requiring re-inspection of affected cars If your car was inspected before July 2014, you should be eligible for service under the later recall. Unfortunately, this doesn't apply to me. It's also worth noting that Subaru updated and released a THIRD recall (WQQ-52) in late December 2014 with additional inspection requirements on all of the Impreza and Forester model brake lines. Talk about a known problem... See link: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2014/RCMN-14V830-9508.pdf Unfortunately for me, Subaru still doesn't consider themselves liable to fix anything at this point. Really turns me off from an otherwise great car and brand.
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