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Sarang

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About Sarang

  • Birthday 02/18/1989

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  • Location
    Phoenix, AZ
  • Car
    2020 Crosstrek, (2010 LGT stage 2+ sold)
  • Occupation
    Program Manager

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  1. I'm looking at the new BRZ too, but now it looks like I might get a company vehicle so I'm tempted to save the money instead... Being an adult is weird.
  2. I bought the springs from a dealership. Go to parts.subaru.com and look up the part numbers, then you can see if a dealer near you had then for cheap. I think it was around $36 per spring for me.
  3. Check out subtle-solutions for a lift kit and replace your struts with OEM. If you want stiffer springs, get the 2013 springs. They're a bit stiffer, which is nice. There is a thread in here if a guy who put outback suspension on his legacy and he got it to work fine.
  4. I would take a good look at your suspension bushings while you're under there. Worn/torn bushings can result in increased NVH.
  5. You are correct. I put 2013 oem springs with KTB struts on my 2010. It made it WAY better, like the car should have come from the factory.
  6. I had the same struggle. I failed the first time, then went and bought some punches and tried it again, and ended up getting it with a nail that was the right size. Worst fing mod install of my life. I do everything on my cars, but if I was going to do it over again, I'd have a shop do the pin.
  7. It's also worth noting that the 2015+ WRX turbocharger is different from ours, so a charge pipe from the WRX will not bolt on the same. I have wondered if you could make one of them work, but it's not guaranteed.
  8. Agree with Stewdogg: It's pretty simple, just kind of tricky. I have big hands, so I had to ask my girlfriend to undo one of the clips that are hard to get to with my meaty digits. It's all very intuitive and it's pretty easy to wing it. You are dealing with gasoline tho, so try not to die in a fire. It absolutely can be changed out, what a stupid thing for the dealer to say. If you're not the type to do it yourself, any shop should be qualified.
  9. Why are you buying from a dealer? There's really no reason to, unless you're in one of those states that requires it, and you just have to pay for a salesman when they're not adding any value for you. I bought my 2020 Crosstrek from CLS cars. They gave me an OTD price for exactly what I asked for, lead time to expect, and when it came time to pick it up, the guy handed me the keys and printed out the paperwork. Picking up the car took 15 minutes, and ordering it took three emails. I would buy from someone like them. http://www.clscars.com/ They can order any car, except exotics. The fact is I regularly buy chillers and other equipment for $100k or more from the likes of Carrier and Trane, and I can do that via email and by signing a paper. There's no reason why you should have to physically go to a place and haggle over a piddly $50k car, especially if you know exactly what you want. Salesman make sense if you need them to help you figure out what to buy, but if you know exactly what you want, what is the salesman for? Just order it.
  10. Welcome. That's a great color. One of the upsides of the '10-12 LGT is that it's a bit of a unicorn. Not that many aftermarket parts fit it. That said, a Cobb accessport and turbo back exhaust really opens it up.
  11. This is exactly my feeling lately. I like the new BRZ because it seems like it will be a good fit of handling, decent power, fun and reliability for a DD. It will also come out about the time I should be in the right financial place to think about another new car.
  12. I replaced my '10 suspension for new struts and stock '13+ springs with Whiteline sway bars front and rear. That was about perfect for me. It went from bottoming out turning into the grocery store to feeling like a slightly sporty sedan. I would highly recommend a stiffer rear sway bar at a minimum. It kills that stupid floaty feeling that the car has stock.
  13. How strong is the magnet? I tried something similar years ago, but found that the phone would fall off on any bump or turn.
  14. That's a good point too - my dyno numbers were 297hp/380tq My torque peak was at ~3300 RPMs It's pretty impossible to compare actual hp numbers from one dyno to another, but my torque was like 26% higher than my hp, and yours are equal.
  15. What RPM are you hitting 16psi boost? Mine would hit ~17psi at 2700 RPM and it felt very torquey from then on. Below that, it was like a 2.5 with a restriction. On the top at about 5000 RPM the torque fell off a cliff, so I wouldn't really consider it a top end turbo. From looking at dynos of older LGTs, and driving my buddie's '09 WRX stage 2, I thought my '10 LGT had more low end torue.
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