tobykinkle

I have a 1999 Legacy RHD, my 1998 Legacy RHD and a 1996 Legacy (project car). I replaced the knock sensor on both of my RHD cars (cheap and easy insurance.) I have had the 1998 for about 7 months, put about 500 miles a week on it for work. My 1999 runs better, but the right rear strut housing is almost gone (big hole from outside to inside) so I havent been driving it, and havent had a chance to get it fixed. One of my friends told me to check the convertor with a temp gun, so I tested both front and rear cats. Car was warmed up and just came from doing 100 miles, and measured at 2000-2200 RPM. First converter temp going in was 160F-170F, going out was 260-280 (100 degree difference, which is good.) Rear converter going in was 108-120, and the exact same going out....so my rear one is bad according to that test. The rear cat isnt monitored by an oxygen sensor, so that could be why it didnt throw a code. I ordered a new one (what's more money spent lol) and hopefully this solves my problem.....if I didnt need a RHD for my job, I would be bringing it to a dealer. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Automatic. Car does it with or without AC on. Just did (3 days ago) the timing belt kit, front/rear differential fluid changes and head gasket (exhaust getting into the overflow.) Plugs looked good when we took them out. Also drained and put in new transmission fluid (was just done with filter 4000 miles ago...came out red in color.) Has brand new coil and wires, but I swapped them out with my other Subaru, and that didnt change anything soni swapped them back. All of this done, and still a slight hesitation (not as bad, but still there.) I'm at a total loss. I have legit tried everything....some twice. About to take it to Subaru and have them figure it out. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I installed 2 ga. wire from battery to alternator, 2 ga. from battery to starter and I also upgraded the grounds all with 2 ga (from battery to engine, from battery to frame, and from frame to engine.) I was having electrical problems with another one of my subarus and was told this would solve it....so, I did it to both of mine just in case. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I ran my scan tool and have not had any codes, other than a P0400 (been on forever.) My mechanic is going to check the timing belt and pulleys Monday...probably just going to have him change them anyways. It did do something weird today....only hesitated twice and stalled once, and when it did, the temp gauge was a little above the middle line. After the first hesitation, I ran with my heat on, and went up a steep hill....didnt stall...didnt hesitate...nothing. ran perfect. Turned the heat off and the next long hill I came to, I stopped at the mailbox at the top, and it stuttered and died. Started right back up, completed the next 60 miles of my mail route with the heat on full blast, and it was perfect. I'm so confused....I wish it would just pop a code on and tell me what it is lol... Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I have a 1998 Legacy Post Wagon (2.2l) that just recently, in the last 2 weeks, has developed a hesitation, but only uphills (steep or gradual), and only when I back off on the throttle and then try to start off...she will stumble, knock a little, and sometimes stalls. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge, and when my car was idling 22-25 PSI, under load, it was between 28-32...when it hesitated, the pressure didnt drop. Took the vacuum hose of the FPR, and PSI went to 35. Car off, key on, was not getting a pressure reading, so I did end up changing the pump to a Walboro. With the new pump, key on, car off, pressure is holding at 30... start car, pressure holds at 27 when idling, 26 when going down hill....max PSI I saw was 35, and that was on a straight with the throttle matted. Better power now with the new pump, but still didnt change the hesitation issue. Installed new NGK plugs, NGK wires, NGK coil, transmission filter, fuel filter, air filter, oil and filter, OEM thermostat, OEM radiator cap...still the problem exist...had my battery and alternator checked, and they came back perfect. No codes....nothing....so at a loss right now. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yup...replaced the alternator again, put a fuse in, and it has been running for almost a week without popping a fuse.... Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Update: fixed the interior light issue...one of the fuses wasnt pushed in fully. I also noticed that the voltage was running around 12.5 volts today, and everytime I stepped on the brake, it would dip to around 11.8-12.2 volts. If I turned on any loads, it would dip below 12 volts. So, I figured there was a grounding issue, so I changed all of the battery cables and added a couple more grounds (from engine to battery, from battery to chassis and from chassis to engine.) Voltage now seems to be at 13.4-13.6 idling, and with all the loads, it dips to 12.8-13.2. However, when I put it in reverse or drive, and let it idle, it drops to 11.8-12.2 volts. The second I start driving, it goes to 13.2-13.5. I can let it idle in park for hours, and it wont blow my tailight/running light fuse. I put it in reverse or drive and it is fine. The second I give it gas, it pops the fuse....I'm so lost. Could the alternator be faulty? (I replaced it 2 months go because the original one was shooting fire.) I checked the connections on it, and they seemed ok, however the positive bolt connection on top looked like the plastic was cracked. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Update: for some reason, my dash lights just stopped working too. Fuse for them is not blown. Weird thing is, both that fuse and the taillight/parking light fuse are good, but I still dont have parking or tails.... Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I have searched on this subject and have found some answers, but not the exact problem I'm having. I have a 1999 Legacy Postal wagon. The other day, my wife noticed I didnt have any tail lights. Checked the fuse and it was blown. Replaced it and it instantly blew again. Changed all the bulbs (every exterior bulb.) Put a new fuse in, and it blew again. Tore apart the back and found a corroded ground wire and a little cut in the tail light harness. Repaired both, put a new fuse in, and problem solved...for a day. Going to work this morning, and when I backed into my parking spot, I noticed no taillights. So, went home, tore apart the back hatch, and all the panels out. Looked for any broken wire or anything, and it all looked fine. I put a new fuse in, turned off every load in the car...no heat, no AC, no headlights....just the parking lights. Sat for about 30 minutes, idling and fast idling....lights stayed on, fuse was fine. The second I put it in drive, the fuse blows. Turn on all loads (radio, AC, interior lights. Headlamps...everything...changed the fuse and it was perfect...idled low and high for 30 minutes...put it in drive and POP goes the fuse. What am I missing? This is my daily driver, as I work for the post office.