dsanford1029

I just swapped out neo max silvers "coilovers " with koni/H&R springs on my wife's 2011 2.5i. I really like the performance feel of the coilovers but she works in NYC and the roads are garbage so the bumps were extremely harsh. The new setup isn't as tight and the ride is way more comfortable. I still have the coilovers and will sell them at a good price but any coilovers you go with will probably have the same outcome "harsh ride quality ". Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I bought the rear strut mounts "forester " directly from Subaru and I checked where I bought the fronts and I actually bought them from Amazon. They look the same but obviously not. Car drives amazing now finally. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

So the dealership has had the car for one week. They installed everything and did the alignment. I went to pick it up and pulled out onto the main road . Immediately the car began pulling hard to the right. I brought it back to the dealership and the service rep said they would fix the problem. The service rep called me several hours later and stated they found the problem. It was a damaged passenger front strut mount. I couldn't believe it because it was brand new, I ordered the sti group-N B0310FE000 front mounts when I built the koni/H&R setup. He sent me a picture just to show me the damage and I couldn't believe the bearing separated so fast. They are going to replace it with a oem one that they had in stock for the legacy. This whole strut building suspension replacing plus getting the wheel alignment done has been an absolute nightmare. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Thanks for your input. Local shops around me say they can't handle the inner tie rods so I have to bring it into the dealership. Every single shop was crying about a special Subaru tool needed for the inner tie rods. I have already replaced the strut mounts with the upgraded ones from sti and the rears from a forester I believe. I had the whiteline rear lca installed and one shop said it was installed wrong so I jacked the rear to check it out. I found it installed properly so I guess these alignment shops are not familiar with adjustable aftermarket suspension parts I guess. Anyway I am going to get a price for a front and rear refresh. Hopefully it won't cost thousands. My wife and I really enjoy this car and she says she will never let it go so I am going to be spending some money to keep her going. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I recently built koni/h&r struts for my wife's 2011 2.5i. I had a shop install them along with a set of whiteline rca. I also had the shop replace the front bearings. I brought the car in for a alignment and was turned away due to the inner and outer tie rod is shot so it can't be adjusted. I am having the tie rod replaced. Is there anything else I should consider replacing? The car just hit 100k and all suspension components look ruff. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Yeah I have decided to tackle it myself. The dealership is absolutely nuts if they want someone to pay that amount for that work. I guess I will do a coolant flush while I'm at. Replacing all the hoses is a great idea as well. Thanks for all of your input on this it is much appreciated [emoji106]. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I can't see not removing the radiator to accomplish this job. But what you said has peaked my interest. If I can avoid removing the radiator then saves a ton of time. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I can do it myself but I don't have a garage and we park the car on the street with alternate side parking rules so it's not doable that way. My wife wants it taken care of so I am stuck Bringing it to the dealership. On a brighter note I am in the process of building koni/H&R spring setup with the sti group n front strut mounts and forester rear strut mounts. I am almost finished and I can definitely swap out that on the street. I think 1400 is a bit high. I can buy the whole kit for I think 275 from rock auto. The idler pulley should be included for that price. I guess I will call the dealership to get more details. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

My wife's 2011 2.5i is almost to 100k and I called the dealership where she bought it from to get a quote on the water pump and timing belt replacement. They quoted me 1400$. Is that too much? Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

The g25-550 is a great turbo and the numbers you are aiming for definitely work with that turbo in fact efficiency is dead on around 31lbs per minute. Just keep in mind that your low end power would suffer a bit. It is a expensive turbo and on other platforms it is making great power. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I run hks racing ir plugs in my Hyundai. I constantly pull them and check the gaps. I use feeler blades. I run somewhat high boost so I make it a rule just to check them every 6 months. I also change the gap whenever I replace them . If the gap is too wide all you have to do is tap them on a hard surface to close it. I use a gap tool to adjust by pulling if needed. I've been doing it for so long its really not a big deal. If you Are only buying spark plugs and installing them without checking to make sure they are gapped properly then you are missing a step in your troubleshooting steps. It will hesitate when you get to WOT by blowing out the spark completely due to the gap being too wide. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

What are your power goals? Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Did you check the gap? I have a car with a 2.0 turbo and I run hks plugs. I have to check the spark plug gap every six months due to I'm running 20psi on a aftermarket larger turbo. I also check the spark plug gap when I buy new plugs. If the gap is too wide you will get hesitation. Just my 2 cents. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I installed "Silvers Neomax " coilovers on my wife's 2011 legacy yesterday. It took all day to do it especially when I hit the rears. The shock bolts didn't want to break for me. I was debating not to get coilovers but there are no options shock/strut wise for our cars. I really don't believe in modifying donors to make shit work. One installed I drove around for a bit and it feels 100% better than the kyb/eibach's that I installed 30k miles ago. The kyb's just gave out too soon and were uncomfortable from the beginning. I guess I will let the coilovers settle for a week and adjust ride hight and stiffness plus get a alignment. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Did you scan your codes that came in? I did before I brought it to the dealership. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk