Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

AMileHighLGT

Members
  • Posts

    470
  • Joined

3 Followers

About AMileHighLGT

  • Birthday 07/20/1983

Personal Information

  • Location
    Denver
  • Car
    '06 Legacy GT Limited
  • Interests
    Cars
  • Occupation
    ASE Master wrench turner. Certified Advanced Level Specialist. Undercar specialist.

AMileHighLGT's Achievements

Proficient

Proficient (10/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. JMP is awesome hands down the best person to get a rebuild from.. I am using the stock housing but I picked up some JDM HIDs for the fogs that were plug and play. I can go out and take a look later this week for you to tell you which ones I am running. Don't worry about it. I was just curious if they were actually retro fitted. Congrats on the new addition! Enjoy these baby days while you can, by the time they are 3 its a whole different animal and they talk back to you! I find myself going through pictures from then and it makes me bitter sweet.
  2. +1 for JMP, his craftsmanship, support, advice, and quick turn around are par none. Some of these other idiots that rebuild turbos like hill country take weeks. I've got one of his rebuilds with just under 60k miles on it and love it. ~4 years old now. If you don't mind my asking, what did you do with the fogs? Did you ditch the stock housings or did you retrofit HID's to them? from what I've seen retrofitting them is next to impossible because of space.
  3. you have applied a stage 2 tune to a vehicle that doesn't have all the necessary stage 2 parts yet, that is why you are under boosting. The stage 2 map from Cobb is meant to be run on their boost control solenoid. Cobb's boost solenoid is not the same as the Subaru solenoid. It is 100% to do with the tune, and your inability to read the map notes to see what parts are needed for that tune. May I suggest you brush up on the map notes on Cobb's website?
  4. I'm surprised to see no one has asked this yet. Are you still on the stock boost controller?
  5. You wont have a vacuum condition at higher rpm even with a 0 veh. speed. Compression test wont tell you how well the cylinder is sealing. I think ive stated this before. a leakdown test will show a burned valve. it just may not be severe enough to stick out at you. if you dont see any scoring with the boroscope then your cylinder walls should be ok. i had 108k when i pulled my motor due to #4 ringland failure, walls were not scored up. in the pictures you have of the cylinder wall and piston the junk at the top of the cylinder wall is called ring ridge its just the area on the cylinder wall that does not get scraped by the piston. I would venture to say your ringlands in that cylinder are PROBABLY ok. When i pulled the head off my motor for the fuct ringland, the ring ridge was excessive, and comprised of nothing but burned oil sitting at the top, in a cake like consistency. sorry i havent been around here lately man, started a new job.
  6. If it is a burned valve, it would come and go with temperature as the block warms and cools. I have seen that before. I had a cracked ringland. It would pass compression testing it finally failed one and then a leakdown test confirmed it. I compression tested once I knew something was up. I had a cyl 4 misfire. It wouldn't log any misfires when cruising and accelerating. Only at idle. And even then there were some times it wouldn't at all. I understand why you're asking. And yes it is logical, but if you think what happens inside the cylinder walls, that's all pretty violent stuff going on. And when it comes to cars and car repairs always expect the unexpected.
  7. If i come of as an abrasive ass, insert adjective here, thats just who i am. I tell you how i see it. I know i have some good points, i do this for a living. That works too, as long as you disabled the system in any way is all that matter. I understand work and family commitments man, i hear you. Just so you know often times exhausting the easy options first is costly, and time consuming. Im not saying youre wasting money with the mr injector stuff, im not judging you. I just think it would be cheaper and less time consuming in the long run for you if you dont do the easy and basics, you need to be chasing the essentials to good complete combustion in all your cylinders. I didnt go back to look yet There is no issue from me with you documenting on here, im doing it myself. On the contrary!! I am happy to see you undertake this on your own, in a day and age where 'Men' aren't really men anymore in the real sense of the word, guys who would rather pay someone to figure out a problem on a car and then get dirty fixing it. Mad props dude! I am more than 'interested' to see YOU succeed at nailing this down and never experience that annoying ass misfire ever again!! I am here to provide any knowledge and assistance that I can to you, and any other member in this community. My abrasiveness has nothing to do with wanting to start an internet fight with you, do I look like Mr.Tris? Well, kind of... Bank 1 just means the upstream sensor in the exhaust. Here is what is throwing you off. You are looking at your front o2 sensor data point in your android app. Your android app is mislabeling the paramater as an oxygen sensor, even though it is not an 'oxygen sensor', it is a narrow band air fuel ratio sensor. If it were an oxygen sensor, the voltage they produce is anywhere from .1v-.9v. .1v being lean and .9v being rich. Fundamentally, air-fuel sensors work just like regular oxygen sensors, but in a mirror fashion. When the condition is rich they decrease in voltage. To the contrary, when the condition is lean their voltage spikes. This is opposite of our normal inclination to view high voltages as a rich indicator, and low ones as a lean indicator, so be careful. Subaru does not specify a perfect mixture condition in a voltage that you can compare to what you see in your app, but, in my experiences with subaru, MOST of the time about 2.4v is a perfect mix, important to note though, i have not even looked at this on a legacy so i cant guarantee that info. so this is what you do to see if its at least working in a somewhat easy fashion because im pretty sure you do not have access to a digital storage oscilloscope and a low amp probe. With engine running, disconnect the hose that runs from the driver side of the black intake manifold that runs up to the fuel pressure regulator. Watch the bank 1 sensor 1 parameter, look for a change, note how high it goes. Then force a rich condition by spraying a little bit of carb clean into the port that you just disconnected and note how low it goes. or If you have an ohm meter you could hook it up in series on the signal line, and check the milliamp draw on the sensor. perfect would be no milliamps. view every .100 milliamp above 0 as 1% lean, and every .100 milliamp under 0 as 1% rich. if you get to .800 milliamp + or - there is a problem. you would perform this test with the engine running. Better yet, if you can see a/f learning a, b, c and d that would be even better. Yes, it would be simpler, but maybe longer, and costlier, but considering the low compression results you have already posted i would just get a leakdown done. Im thirsty and its beer time. cheers!
  8. Your numbers for compression are almost 100 psi less than the minimum specified, a cold engine wont affect pressure that much. Did you unplug your fuel injectors first? spraying fuel in there will wash the oil off the cylinder walls creating a poor seal between cylinder wall and piston ring. DID YOU EVER RETEST COMPRESSION LIKE YOU SAID YOU WOULD? I SEE NO UPDATE ON THAT.. So, i have to ask, why you are continuing to chase #2 injector? Your diagnostic process, although very thorough, is only focusing one area. To have combustion you need good compression, good fuel, good spark, and air. You know you have good spark, and good fuel, so whats left? It couldnt be a lack of oxygen, that would require two fuct intake valves, if that were the case you would have a constant non stop misfire. You need to go back to compression test, those numbers sucked. see what i said above. disable the fuel system first. Also you should consider ditching a compression test, and go straight to the leak down test. It will tell you whether your losing compression past intake or exhaust valves or piston rings. It will also tell you the percentage of leakage. I dont want to see anymore updates, that are not really an update because you are chasing the same shit. over and over and over again. If you cant leak down test the motor, then pay someone to do it. My car had the same type of pattern of misfire. YOU NEED TO LEAKDOWN TEST Your o2 sensor voltage is not actually a parameter that you should be watching, because your o2 sensor is in the downpipe, it monitors post catalyst ratios for emission control.. Air fuel ratio is controlled by the forward air fuel sensor, the one that is mounted in the exhaust manifold pipe before it bolts to the up pipe ( i am not talking about the egr sensor in the up pipe right before the turbo). Air fuel ratio sensors operate differently than an oxygen sensor, and unless you can hook up an amp probe to your phone you wont know what the amperage draw of that sensor is. Also, the o2 sensor voltage you're monitoring, it does not specifically measure each individual cylinder, so stop chasing that rabbit immediately. You see your numbers indicating a lean, well yeah. The oxygen drawn into the cylinder is not burned. Therefore oxygen leaves the cylinder unburned. It acts like a 'slug of oxygen' running through the exhaust, of course youre going to see lean on the post cat sensor...
  9. I disagree. The Fa20 engines are horrible with consuming oil. Many owners have already had multiple rebuilds under warranty with no change to the condition. I know of several 15wrx and stis that literally bring on a rod knock soon as they hit around 3k miles.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use