legacy_specB

Trap speed was 127mph. And yes it's a built 5EAT

Haven't been able to make another event since with all that's going on in the world. We ran 11.8 on street tires. Had tons of wheel spin in 1st to 3rd. Hopefully the next run will be with proper tires on a prepped track. Will update once that happens.

Whoops! Sorry. Car has a fully built engine, ported heads, BW EFR 7670 turbo. Car made 501whp and 403wtq, but for the run we were around 470whp with a shot of nitrous to get it off the line in 1st up to 5500rpm. We installed a window switch that made sure that the nitrous was only spraying up to 5500rpm. Reason for this is the transmission would not shift if it was allowed to spray any higher. We also had to raise the rpm to around 8200 and limit throttle to 60% just before the shift to ensure that it shifts properly. Transmission has a Hexmods VB, solid center diff bushings and a new center diff that was cryo treated and shot peened before install. Clutch packs are Exedy clutches. We machined the Steels to allow us to pack more clutches in each clutch pack so for eg a clutch pack that usually has 5 clutches now has 9. This way we hold alot more tq. IPT high stall converter. IPT says it's a 4500 stall but I've never been able to stall it that high. Highest I've seen it go is about 3800. Everything else with the drive train is stock. Stock axles, driveshaft etc. As mentioned before the car ran 11.824 but the mph was wrong. Time slip showed 140mph but the track team said that it was higher than it actually was. Hope this helps. If you guys have any more questions just let me know.

Update!! Took the car to the strip about a month ago and ran an 11.824 on street tire with tons of wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear. Who says the 5eat cant hold power lol

I know its an old thread but I ran 11.824 on my full weight 5eat Legacy Spec B just over a month ago. Car is making 501whp and 402wtq on C16. I can post the dyno graph and time slip if you like.

Event: Street Shootout Location: Wallerfield international Raceway Date: 16/02/2020 11.824s - legacy_specB 5eat Ambient Temp: 88F Elevation: Sea level Weather: Clear Car: 2005 Legacy Spec B Tuner: Ryan of Rtune Transmission: 5EAT transmission Peak Horse Power at RPM: 501whp @6600 rpm Peak Torque at RPM: 403wtq @6500 rpm Fuel: C16 Engine/Power Modifications: EJ20 engine, EFR7670, Built engine, ported heads, GSC S2 cams. Driveline Modifications: Built transmission, Hexmods Valvebody and Solid bushings, IPT Clutches, Stock driveshaft and axles Suspension Modifications: BC Coilovers, Cusco sway and strut bars, Perrin endlinks Other Modifications: Full weight and street tires

Ok. Sounds good. Have you done anything at all to the transmission so far? Do you know what power level you are at currently?

You can try some of the suggestions I mentioned right now and see if shifts get better at redline. What sort of power are you looking for? What mods etc.

Resetting the TCU in addition to cutting throttle at redline will result in a faster shift. This in conjunction with the VB mod and raising line pressures through the ECU etc. This will only work when shifting at redline. Dont expect a 20ms shift tho.....as you would need access to the TCU programming for that..

The valvebody mod applies to every 'mode'. However, the valvebody sends different line pressures depending on what mode you drive in. Full auto uses a lower line pressure than sport mode or manual mode. This is why generally full auto mode is smoother. The delay in the shifts has nothing to do with the valvebody mod. This delay in manual mode is a software delay and there is no tuning around it as we cannot access the TCU to remove that delay. The best bet is to do a TCU reset and then drive the car how you would like the car to drive at all times in manual mode. That way the valvebody will relearn your driving style and shift to match that style when in sport mode. So for example from the factory the car will try to get in the highest gear possible as quickly as possible. Let's say that at 20% throttle the car shifts from 1st to 4th at 2000rpm for each shift. After the TCU reset put the car in manual mode take a long drive and shift every gear at 3000rpm. You will notice that when in full auto or sport mode the car will try to rev to 3000rpm every time before shifting and will even hold lower gears longer. Hope this helps

Faster firmer shifts is actually better when it comes to wear of the transmission components. Less time shifting means less slip between shifts. As mentioned if the shifts are firmer that means other components of the drivetrain will be absorbing the shock of the shifts. A simple way around this is reducing the throttle through the DBW tables a couple hundred rpm before redline so that at the moment of the shift the transmission is seeing less tq than usual thus making the shift faster, less slippage and less shock at the moment of the shift. Once the new gear is selected and full throttle is reapplied the shock seen by the transmission is considerably less and more gradual.

Yes I pulled it myself and sent it to upgrade. Who quoted you 1500 to remove, upgrade and reinstall?

The VB mod shifts like stock at partial throttle but shifts quicker and firmer at WOT. Stop and go traffic there is no noticeable difference. You start getting harder shifts when you start interfering with the clutch packs and dont set the clearance right. Once the clearance remains close to stock it drives and feels like a stock transmission until you step on the gas.

The VB upgrade definitely does make a big difference. I currently break loose in 2nd and 3rd on dry pavement lol. Depends on your power levels tho. VB upgrade alone will only take you so far....

Update! Fuel issues sorted. Car is currently at 501whp and 402wtq. 5eat still holding on with no signs of slippage.