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XT-sub

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    NSW, Australia.
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    (Australian) 2019 MY19 Outback 3.6R CVT.

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  1. Going by the 2015 Legacy FSM, it looks like the front bumper has to be removed. If so, that is quite an easy job if you are careful. Two people with towels & tape for paint protection helps. There should be instructions on subaruoutback.org forum how to remove the front bumper (gen5 Outback is equivalent to gen6 Legacy), or perhaps someone has made a YouTube video. Front Hood Lock Assembly – removal & installation pdf: 17 Front Hood Lock Assembly.pdf
  2. The screw does appear to be a Torx Plus 5-point. The TS40 5-point bit I used is that badly made it could be either a Torx 5-point or a Torx Plus 5-point. The document that came with the kit that contained that Torx TS40 5-point bit makes no mention of Torx Plus (see below attached scanned image). If that is a 40 size, then yes.
  3. I’ve attached a photo showing the original screw fitted to our Outback alongside the TS40 Torx 5-point bit I used. The bit is far from perfect having a couple of points more rounded than others. That bit isn’t a tight fit in the screw, but we are only looking at 40 inch/lb torque.
  4. I haven’t seen that part number BTP40P bit, but it looks like a TS40 Torx 5-point bit. The following may help. It must be a 5-point Torx bit, not a 6-point Torx bit. If the screw in your car is the same as the new screw as shown in my post I previously linked to (the new screw doesn’t have a pin in the centre), then a TS40 Torx 5-point bit will fit & a T40 Torx 5-point bit should also fit. TS40 Torx 5-point vs T40 Torx 5-point: A TS40 Torx 5-point bit has a hole in the centre & fits TS40 Torx 5-point screws which have a pin in the centre & also fits T40 Torx 5-point screws without the pin in the centre. A T40 Torx 5-point bit doesn’t have a hole in the centre & fits T40 Torx 5-point screws without a pin in the centre.
  5. You are welcome. I didn’t use a torque wrench on the screw, I just hand tightened it firmly but not too tight. Depending on what screw is fitted to the steering rack on your Legacy, you may not need to source the TS40 5-point Torx security screw bit. You may get away with a T40 5-point Torx screw bit. The new screw is a T40 5-point Torx screw & the original one on my Outback was the same. The T40 5-point Torx screw bit would have done the job but the TS40 5-point Torx security screw bit in a kit was readily available where I shop (it fits both TS40 & T40 versions of the screw). I hope it fixes the noise.
  6. Here if it helps: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/list-of-recommended-independent-subaru-repair-shops.538265/ 'cardoc' (forum username) in Austin TX is highly regarded on that forum if you are near there.
  7. It isn’t clear. It could be to adjust backlash & fit the new spring, or it could be just to adjust the backlash. Either way, going by the TSB, the backlash adjustment is more labour intensive whereas replacing the spring is a piece of cake. It does sound pricey but the cost of labour can quickly add up. I suspect a good recommended Indy mechanic would be cheaper. I think on subaruoutback.org there is a list of recommended Indy shops in the US.
  8. Yes, steering column recall. If you want to check the EPS tension spring yourself, in addition to the link to the TSB posted by ammcinnis, below is a link to post #269 by OHSCrifle in the topic I previously linked to. It has a link to Tim Wong’s YouTube video: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/front-end-rattle-clunk.377209/page-7?post_id=6096141&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-6096141 Note: 40 inch/lbs isn’t much torque, so I wouldn't use a power tool to refit the screw. A brief list of how easy it is to do is posted by CdnScooby in post #245 here: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/front-end-rattle-clunk.377209/page-6?post_id=6030997&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-6030997
  9. Thanks. I think the backlash check/adjustment plus the new spring is the longer term fix. Good to see your Legacy’s steering rack is still noise free since 2020.
  10. Do you know what work was done on the EPS steering rack? My suggestion (which is the reverse of what the TSB flow chart indicates): Check the EPS tension spring to see if it has the newer spring fitted (an easy 5 to 10 minute job once the car is up on front ramps). If it has the newer tension spring, check the dimensions to see if it has lost some of its tension (became shorter). The dimensions are in my post #330 in the topic I previously linked to. You will need Vernier Calipers to check the dimensions. Link to post #330: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/front-end-rattle-clunk.377209/post-6389701 If the spring hasn’t been replaced or it is now shorter (lost some tension), replace the spring (a relatively cheap & easy job). If the spring has been replaced & has the same new spring dimensions, consider if it is worth the cost of getting the backlash adjustment done as per the TSB. ... Doug, Did you have the backlash adjusted & the new spring fitted, or just the new spring?
  11. I don’t think mice would like it. Tef-Gel is rather pricey but a small amount goes a long way. I still have a 60g tub I bought many years ago & I use it on my boat plus everything I fit to our house exterior with 316 SS bolts, screws & pop rivets where galvanic action could be an issue (we live on the coast & get a sea breeze which carries salt air). The worst part about it is; being a very sticky gel, it requires Shellite or similar to clean it up. I had a look at a similar ground bus-bar on our current 2019 Outback 3.6R that Ohjai had problems with, & without opening it up, my guess is the wires may have brass female spade connectors pushed onto male spade connectors which are part of the bus-bar. The bus-bar appears to be plated steel, so that connection would need protection against galvanic action. Using crimp or solder ring connectors under the ground bolt like Ohjai did seems to me to be a better way to make that ground connection, providing the bolt & connectors are coated with something suitable.
  12. You may find some helpful info in the subaruoutback.org ‘Gen 5: 2015-2019 > Front End Rattle/Clunk’ forum topic here: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/front-end-rattle-clunk.377209/?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#replies
  13. I’m certain it isn’t for electrical insulation. My guess is that plastic box retains the compound or gel around the wires & earth (ground) bus-bar connections. It would also offer some minor mechanical protection. The compound would be to keep moisture out which could cause corrosion to the wires & also to prevent galvanic action between any dis-similar metals. On our Australian spec Liberty (Legacy) & Outbacks the horn connections have a similar compound at the horn connections. If I was to repair the connections at that earth bus-bar I would make sure all connections were liberally coated with something like Tef-Gel or even heavy duty Lanoline Grease after making all the connections. I use a product called Tef-Gel on my boats to waterproof & prevent galvanic action. It is a very good product commonly used on boats between aluminium & stainless steel fittings. Link to Tef-Gel’s website: https://www.tefgel.com.au/
  14. SilverOnyx posted an Automatic Transmission Fluid Application Guide table in the subaruoutback.org forum topic ‘CVT fluid color’ which lines up with your research. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/cvt-fluid-color.532659/post-6106430 Perhaps contact a dealer & ask what CVT fluid should be used specifically for your vehicle VIN.
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