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jfsn06

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    2005 SWP LGT Wagon

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  1. Sorry to hear about your issues. It’s getting to be really hard to trust shops these days not only about honesty, but also quality of work. On a side note, if you still have issues with you AOS, I would venture to check out the o-rings on the coolant line connections. They are o-ring -AN fittings. It’s possible that the o-rings weren’t lubed when they were tightening them. Also maybe you already know l, but just in case, tighten them snug then turn 1-1 1/2 extra flat.
  2. I vote leakdown test before spending any more money on anything else. That way, you know for sure the motor is good mechanically and that the overheating issue isn't from bad machining or headgasket related.
  3. Yea it's really hard especially with the yellow vs gold. Really wish we had all the cool stuff japan offered.
  4. This week has been slow, so not really much to update. I have the motor pretty much sealed up except the oil pan area. I installed the oil pump yesterday, let the sealant cure and today, I was able to confirm that it picks up oil from the oil pickup. I guess the factory packed the rotors really well. I'm currently waiting on the 08+ WRX oil filter pickup and high flow water-pump with two nipples for the oil exchanger delete. I'll be running an oil cooler setup once the motor is broken in. Once those parts are in, I can prime the motor to make sure that oil gets to the places it needs to. The reason for not sealing the oil pan is i'd like to verify that oil squirts out from the crank journals and rods. Also some more parts came in today: AEM 340lph fuel pump, AEM wideband, Mishimoto oil cooler, Turbosmart BPV, IAG phenolic spacers and 18qt. of Motul break-in oil. On a sidenote, I should be using this time to finish wiring up the Tein EDFC ActivePro since I got the Tein Flex Zs from the sedan installed on the wagon. For those doing an oil exchanger delete and are interested in the part numbers, here they are: Water pump (cast impeller) 2 nipples:2111AA065 Oil Filter pickup:15018AA050
  5. yup they are the purple ones. The black cover is probably throwing off the color. I recently sold the blue ones and somac is correct in that the blue ones are the blue and the teal. I have the purple myself. I had yellow ones too but they're not really that yellow in person so I sold them. These were the color choices for the pre-facelift: SAA3050200HN: Yellow SAA3050200GL: Green/Teal SAA3050200UL: Red SAA3050200TE: Tinted Silver SAA3050200PM: Purple SAA3050200IU: Blue SAA3050200GH: Gold
  6. This post is for those of you that have the JDM wagon powered folding rear seats and have yet to wire it to the JDM rear cargo switch I don't know how complete everyone's JDM rear seats are but to make this work you will need: -JDM rear folding switch(located on the upper part of the JDM rear cargo side panels -JDM rear seats(or at least the upper portion) which has the release motors -JDM upper rear seat hinges(these hinges have a really beefy spring that force the upper part of the rear seats to fold down when they are unlatched. Without these springs, even if you wire the release motors, the upper seat will not fold. So I took a look at the wiring today for the powered upper seat release/folding and I was able to figure out how to make it work. I don't know if SOJ used the same colors on all the wiring but mine was Black and Red. I temporarily unpinned the harness on one side on the folding rear seats and extended the wires so I could connect it to an extra battery I had. The wiring is pretty simple: Red is power and Black is ground. Basically, the release motor has constant 12v power. When the ground is connected, the circuit gets completed and allows the release motor to do its thing. What makes the seat fold down are the heavy duty springs on the hinges where the upper seat is bolted down. In terms of wiring the the switch on the cargo panels, the routing will look like this: 12v power -> red wire on upper seat harness -> black wire on upper seat harness extended to 1st wire on rear switch on cargo panel -> 2nd wire on rear switch on cargo panel connected to ground or any common ground No relay is needed and the power wire to the release motor just needs to be tapped to a constant 12v+ source so that the function can be used even when the car is off. The switch itself is just a glorified toggle switch so that the ground circuit can be completed. Let me know if you have any questions.
  7. So I took a look at the wiring today for the powered upper seat release/folding and I was able to figure out how to make it work. I don't know if SOJ used the same colors on all the wiring but mine was Black and Red. I temporarily unpinned the harness on one side on the folding rear seats and extended the wires so I could connect it to an extra battery I had. The wiring is pretty simple: Red is power and Black is ground. Basically, the release motor has constant 12v power. When the ground is connected, the circuit gets completed and allows the release motor to do its thing. What makes the seat fold down are the heavy duty springs on the hinges where the upper seat is bolted down. In terms of wiring the the switch on the cargo panels, the routing will look like this: 12v power -> red wire on upper seat harness -> black wire on upper seat harness extended to 1st wire on rear switch on cargo panel -> 2nd wire on rear switch on cargo panel connected to ground or any common ground No relay is needed and the power wire to the release motor just needs to be tapped to a constant 12v+ source so that the function can be used even when the car is off. The switch itself is just a glorified toggle switch so that the ground circuit can be completed. Let me know if you have any questions.
  8. I have the matching grey alcantara armrests if you're interested. Beautiful wagon btw!
  9. Hoping that it’s not too late of a post but if you want to retain the SRS and side airbags, this is my recommendation. I used the non SRS pieces at first but seeing how easy they can pop off i’d be scared to see what happens when a side airbag deploys. But as long as you run on no airbags, then that shouldn’t be a concern. Check my post https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5870227&postcount=666
  10. Wanted to get everyone's opinion on the best practice to prime the motor after being newly built. I know about priming the oil pump while building the motor. I have new GSC cams as well and I was told that the first start is critical.
  11. This is the result. Good beading outside but no blocked oil passages. You can always verify by doing a light check
  12. This is the result. This is honestly all it needs and keeping this far away from the oil passages actually allows it to spread just enough without blocking it after the torquing procedure.
  13. Apply your choice of sealant. Preferably Fujibond or similar. I personally use Toyota's FIPG
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