ScoobaruSpud

Mine went in perfect but do be sure to order the right one - seems 2018 is different than the 16-17 - and I think the 18 has a slightly more open weave than prior years.

Mine went in perfectly. Easy job. Good youtube videos out there too on how to do it. Videos recommend two people for dropping the bumper but I did it solo without much trouble.

I had this issue on the driver's seat of my new 2018 3.6R. They didn't tell me exactly what was causing it but I believe there is a TSB out on the matter. It's a known thing they should be able to fix.

Regarding lifts and spacers, there's a thread you might find interesting (search "saggy butt")

What's completely useless about the parking brake? I use mine several times a day. I hate the POP on the transmission when coming out of park on an incline (something is loaded up with tension and doesn't like the sudden release). In fact, in some hairbrained idea of trying to preserve the CVT a little bit, my routine when parking is foot brake, parking brake, neutral, release foot brake, shift to park. Comes out of park later like a dream and with no pop. Gentle. As a car you want to last forever ought to.

There's plenty of posts elsewhere in the forum about a TSB for the new steering rack spring. Generally, the symptom is a rattle from the front driver side wheel well area (like a strut bearing or the like) while the car is cold and driven over uneven roads, like alligator cracked asphalt or chipseal. After a few minutes it seems to go away. There is a TSB regarding this that does not apply to all years in which the symptoms present. My 18 Legacy 3.6R was not included in the span of models Subura identified, but the dealer tried it anyway and it cured my issue. The car is also still under warranty. If this sounds like a fit, check out the TSB and mention this to your service department. I believe its a pretty easy and not expensive fix even if your car is not covered otherwise.

What's done is done for this guy and he's happy now. But I did the same thing as you the day I brought the car home with a fatter RSB. Never seemed to wander except when pushed by a semitruck air dam (everything does). I also had the TSB spring replacement in the rack to fix a rattle and it seemed to snug up the steering feel ever so slightly (maybe just in my head). I've put 18,000 miles on my Legacy 3.6R since I brought it home in June - a lot of highway miles. Loved every mile.

Like the wheels. You ARE going to window tint that car, right? Right???

I understand the spring doesn't. And I don't know the process of changing it, but if it includes popping inner or outer tie rod ends out of place maybe that part was botched. It seems by your response the spring can be changed without doing that, so go figure.

Not my experience. I have a 2018 Legacy 3.6R and the spring fixed my rattle and had no effect on my steering. Sorry about your luck. Maybe it needs an alignment because the techs somehow goofed up your toe-in when taking apart the rack for the spring? No idear. Good luck.

Yeah, depends on the look you like. An empty car with the OE 15mm saggy butt look is not my thing. And soon as I put a couple of suitcases in the back its even worse. Now it tends to look level when loaded for the highway, and subtly raked when just me in the car. In hindsight I probably would have gone with the 3/4" if they had them in stock for an equal wheel arch look, but I'm not disappointed with the look the 1" provides. To most people it looks level anyway (just ask my girlfriend lol). For a highway cruiser and gentle driving I can't discern any difference in handling. If you pushed it hard the negative characteristics may show - couldn't say. Also, I'm not disappointed with the headlight aim (untouched) as I was getting flashed by oncoming traffic anytime I had a suitcase in back before... The only other mod I did was the beefier rear sway bar. I do a LOT of highway driving (15K on this car since June 18) and I've loved every single mile of it. Loved it. And the 3.6R gets really decent mileage on the highway if you don't drive aggressively.

Nope. Just laid them down. No tools required to get where you need to go - just the 14mm wrench to loosen the two nuts per strut.

I'm told the HDPE spacers are just smooth holes, and they require washers, etc - whereas the aluminum ones are threaded. So when you're fishing everything back into place, I'd guess the aluminum ones are a little easier to deal with - no chance of things coming off their studs or bolts. The aluminum spacer threads down onto the bolt (which replaces the stud) like a big one-inch nut.

The FSM section on removing interior panels which we’re referred to by the FSM on this job is unnecessary. All you need to do is essentially remove the cargo liner and spare tire cover. Without poppimg any plastic anchors you can lift the carpet a little to access the the two 14mm nuts anchoring the strut towers. I could even reach both the strut tower nuts and the actual strut body in the wheel well at the same time which made removal amd installation an easy one person job. The pic I posted is from the hatch looking toward the driver rear strut which has been removed.