ChrisJapan

@%1; how much are those seats? Are they in good condition? Need to look for a junkyard in my area. Any suggestions for the NYC area? My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

Another neighborhood shot, but found the same exact year and paint code! It’s really cool to see the before and after side by side. Unfortunately, I could only double park next to it, so the proportions are wrong. My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

That’s one of my bucket list items!!! How’d you source the items? My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

2008 Outback vs 2015+ WRX Happened to be the only parking spot in a 15 block radius, NYC PARKING!! I always get giddy when parking next to a Subaru fellow Around 10 years difference of development and styling. I think Subaru can do better. My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

Just loaded up the car with 20 bags of soil and a 12’ x 26’ roll of astroturf and 2 people. I was nervous since I have the car lowered on coilovers, but it handled it much better than the stock suspension since I have the ability of turning the dampening all the way up. It took 800lbs of soil and the 80lbs of AstroTurf like a champ! +1 for lowered outback My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

Haha thanks for the 2 cents! I found an image from your build (Damn, you have done a lot!!!) with the HRBTHLPM (hot racer boy tow hook license plate mount). I combed the internet, and I think you have the only photo of an Outback with a HRBTHLPM. Still undecided. Shit, my account is in German now and I don't know why.

CV boots tear frequently unfortunately since their next to the exhaust. I would just replace the boots if the axles are still good. It’s a messy job, but not too difficult and it’s cheap. If you wait too long then you’ll have to replace the axle. Do your best to get OEM since aftermarket have terrible tolerances. Definitely inspect every bushing on all arms, diff, etc. I had a clunk towards the front of the car and it was a broken trans mount. It’s a cheap part. You can tell if the clunk is the trans by jacking it up, and shaking the drive shaft for any play. Other frequent issues are the sway bar end links. I would also change the PCV valve for maintenance. I had shaking at highway speeds. Nothing fixed it, including alignments, multiple wheel balancing, new bushings, new bearings and axle... it ended up being was old rotors (not warped, just heavily rutted). To sum it up, things that went wrong on my 3.0 OBW in the past 6 years... normal wear and tear on suspension components, wheel bearings, CV boots, brake components, and a warn out steering rack (still using it and it’s fine). Most of the miles are from Brooklyn and Manhattan. I’m at 120,000. MrSubaru on YouTube is great for Subaru maintenance. My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

Yes, 100% agree... although I don’t know how to change caster nor I don’t know if it’s possible??? And lmao I hate that you noticed the car dealer stickers. I literally removed the sticker yesterday. It gave me anxiety every time I saw it. Still need new front license plate frame, or one of those hot racer boy tow hook license plate mounts. It’s in the shopping cart but I don’t have a job because of COVID. My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

So I was able to perform a partial alignment (reasons below) for the first time since lowering 2” with the car on the ground with two pieces of plywood under each tire. It worked for the most part, but it's hard to make adjustments with less room underneath and with having more weight on the components. The toe was way off, 3/8” off on one of the wheels. I don't have the luxury of jacking up the car, make adjustments, and driving around to see how the car settles since I live in NYC and have street parking. As for the frozen jamb nut on the inner tie rod... I PB blasted it, torched it, PB blasted for 24 hrs, torched it again, then banged it with a BFH, PB blasted... it's now free! Next issue... the jamb nuts on the new rear Whiteline adjustable arms for toe are too big (I think it's 24mm). I gotta get a bigger set of wrenches. I was a wuss and didn't want to ruin them with my pipe wrench. Rear toe is toed in by 1/8" Other issue: when setting camber in the front using the camber plates, I was able set it to max negative camber but I wasn't able to adjust it back from max... it's too much weight to move while the car is on the ground. My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback

Damn, I'm digging your build! I didn't mean for this to happen but we both have very similar setups... I've got 245/45 with the 18" XXR 530s too. Everything suspension-wise is Whiteline. I installed BC BR with Swift springs for the Outback. I want to go to a smaller tire as well, it's too meaty and it gets chewed up. I just re-rolled the fenders and added more camber so I hope it stops the rubbing, but I haven't given it a drive since I made the changes (I live in NYC and I don't want to lose my parking spot during this crisis) The smaller tire set-up looks great. Would you recommend the change to a smaller tire?

Where are you located? My brother is looking for an Outback/Legacy with manual trans. Nice spec list! Do you have any other photos? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s Turbo Yoda’s advice on the flat 6 line up, he has great insight and has built many H6s in the past. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a nice photo of my street side NYC garage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I attempted to align the car yesterday and noticed that my newly installed white line sway bar is in contact with the exhaust... bummer. Anyone run into this issue? It may be my eBay exhaust’s fault which was in contact with one of the rear arms until I replaced it with a white line adjustable arm since it had more clearance. Other issue is the jamb nuts on the inner tie rods are seized. I left them soaking in Pb blaster overnight. I’ll try again tomorrow, and will bring out the torch if I must. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I accidentally posted this in the wrong group(what did you to your OB), sorry for the redundancy! Just made ramps for my car to keep it level using scraps from my wood shop. Used the left over wood for wheel chocks. This is to help keep it level while doing alignments. The street in front of my house in Brooklyn had a 3.5” slope to the driver side, then a stockpile of dog shit (I hate working under the car with wiffs of shit breezing in). To make matters worse, on a couple of occasions I’ve accidentally crawled on poop and cockroaches. Didn’t notice until my roommates told me! To help set camber, I’ve cut a piece of angle iron to the length of the diameter of my rims and attached a magnetic angle finder that I use to true my table saw blade. I will be doing the string method to align. It seems to be accurate enough, this guy on YT did and took to an alignment shop and he was spot on. Next step, wait for a sunny day and start aligning! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk