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MGT

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    Northeastern PA
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    2012 Legacy GT

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  1. Completely fresh 18g build so maybe I'm just not used to all these new noises but I'm hearing this rattle under boost. Wastegate flutter? Exhaust leak? Rod knock? Doesn't really do it if I just rev with no boost. It doesn't appear to be knocking under boost although I did see some knock readings show up under low rpm but I'm thinking that's because I just flashed the tune. I wanna say its just the aftermarket wastegate actuator they put on. Maybe someone could tell me if I'm just being paranoid haha.
  2. Welp. Bought the car in 2016 and 4 years later finally decided to splurge and make the car as good as I can thanks to all you wonderful folks and this forum. I also replaced transmission 3rd-4th synchro's and shift fork during this time. Build Engine Mods New Sti Crankshaft New Sti Exhaust Camshafts Sti Valve Springs/Retainers Manley Pistons 99.5mm 8.5:1 & H-Beam Rods King Race Rod & Main Bearings STD ARP 11mm Head Studs Sti Thermostat IAG TGV Deletes New 11mm Oil pump Fueling Mods ID 1050 Injectors AEM 50-1215 High Flow 340LPH Fuel Pump Turbo Mods BNR 18G Turbo Cobb FMIC Kit (2011-2014 WRX) GFB MACH 2 TMS Recirculating BOV GrimSpeed 3-Port EBCS (2015-2018 WRX) Gauges / Sensors AEM 30-0300 Wideband Gauge AEM 30-4406 Boost Gauge AEM 30-4401 Oil Pressure Gauge Cobb 315650 Fuel Pressure Sensor Suspension Koni Yellows with H&R Springs Whiteline Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit - BSK015 New Sparco DRS Wheels W/ Continental True Contacts Tour Tires (Stock Size) Misc Invidia Q300 Turbo Back Exhaust W/ High Flow Cat. SouthBend Stage 2 Clutch Torque Solution Billet Clutch Fork Verus Engineering Billet Clutch Fork Pivot Clutch Damper Valve Delete Perrin Brass Shifter Bushing Perrin Shifter Stop Perrin Short Shift Adapter W/ Sti STS Primitive Racing Skid Plate Media Suspension Setup Intercooler mock up - Had to use spacers for crash bar and cold side was tight, but didn't have to cut anything other than the bumper. Final product - Bumper already beat up after 150k miles so I didn't mind hacking it up a bit to fit the piping. Engine bay - Might get SD tuned in the future and do away with the ugly recirc hose. Also have to tidy some things up. Functional for now though. Gauge Setup - Had to use tiny flat head bolts to secure them to the top of the climate control. Might come up with some sort of bezel for a cleaner look in the future. Case Halves with old crank - Thanks for the workbench @GTEASER New crank, pistons, heads, studs... All together. Trans was kind of tricky, but next time shouldn't be as bad. I definitely skipped over some things, but just figured I'd share the major steps and interesting parts. Just about everything pictured was done throughout this year. Still in engine break in, but the engine, trans and suspension changes all seem to be working well. This is a great car regardless of what's been done to it.
  3. I'd like to document the whole process for my own personal experience. If I mess up the build and it grenades I'll certainly learn where I went wrong.
  4. So I wanna do an engine build for fun. (I don't want to just buy a built shortblock and call it a day.) I have a 12 GT. I'll need oem case halves/oil pan if I remember correctly. What else should I consider with our cars? I plan on upgrading where I can. (Sti crank, cams, head studs, etc) I'd like to take my time and find deals on all (new) parts. I also don't wanna go too overboard and just get what I can to make it a bit more exciting to drive. I already have a stage 2 tune with supporting mods. I'm starting fresh to replace my tired, high mileage, engine I have now. Looking for advice, good deals on parts if you come across anything or any ideas/feedback to help me along the way. I'll also post any progress I make on this thread. I appreciate any input I can get!
  5. Checked that out today with a buddy of mine. He ended up getting a 3.6R at another dealership instead. Unsprung clutch, lowering springs, deck screws holding the fenders on and they put the exhaust on because it was straight piped at one point and sounded horrible. Someone put a new turbo on it. Also I guess previous owner spliced into the main harness instead of getting an adapter for an aftermarket radio that was previously installed. I believe the dealer corrected that though. I'd personally stay away...
  6. Late reply but I need some insight. So last year I replaced my fluid entirely with Motul Gear 300 and the issue has only gotten progressively worse still. Do I attempt to fix my transmission myself or replace it with a used one (60k) ~ $1200. I'm afraid I'll just keep spending money on oil for no reason. I have been getting away with just double clutching for a while now but I'd like to get it properly fixed. I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks! My transmission has 150k+ miles on it. Edit: I've decided to try 3qt redline lw shockproof + 1qt motul cocktail first. I'll report back if it makes any difference.
  7. Anyone ever replace synchros? My 3rd gear grinds all the time, and I've replace fluid and clutch since it started and still have the issue. Would I need any specialty tools, how do-able is the job once I drop the tranny?
  8. Yeah I have the factory short throw shifter as well so it's a good feel. Also ordered koni rears last night with the eBay discount. Now I'm just a set of springs and mounts away from a koni setup. Can't wait
  9. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BRMpnyP44k]Perrin short shift adapter 2012 LGT - YouTube[/ame] Exchanged my paper weight for a bigger paper weight today. Ignore the cotter pin the old pin shot into oblivion when I punched it out.
  10. Just bought a 2010 Forester X 5 speed to use as my daily while my car gets fixed... Time to build race car.
  11. Koni's site catalog suggests to use the 8610-1447S for the front inserts. Just wondering what the difference is between that and the 8610-1453S inserts? I plan to pair them with 13-14 springs all around.
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