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ohno06gt

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ohno06gt last won the day on October 1 2022

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  • Location
    Ct
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    2006 Legacy gt wagon

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  1. In that situation the raised wheel turns freely with a crunchy sound coming from the rear diff/axle stub as seen in the video in the first post. Another forum member stated that is normal operation for an open diff.
  2. Ok what about that crunchy sound when I spin it? Is it possible that the wheel bearing is shot but I'm not getting any play because the brakes are holding it in place?
  3. That's what I'm seeing as well. Trying to see if the diff came in any other cars. Is one wheel supposed to turn like that with the other on the ground?
  4. One wheel shouldn't spin like that with the other on the ground or am I wrong?
  5. I don't see the 5eat listed on any of those. Checking around for some local part outs. How bad is the replacement? Is it possible to remove/install the diff without removing axles from the knuckle? Edit: Didn't realize I posted this in classifieds. If a mod sees this please move to the appropriate forum.
  6. Noticed the car was shaking around 60mph. When I turn right and shift the weight to the driver's side it gets worse and the vibration almost goes away when I turn left and shift the weight to the passenger side. I thought it was a wheel bearing. Jacked up the car and none of the tires have play. With one rear wheel on the ground the other spins freely with a nice crunchy sound coming from the rear diff. The car is an 06 with a 5eat. Which differentials are compatible?
  7. Yes I cleaned both surfaces with isopropyl alcohol. Thinking about trying a t-bolt clamp or something similar. I just have to be careful when replacing the clamp. The vacuum fitting on the compressor housing is directly below the inlet. I swapped clamps a few weeks ago and ended up tearing the vaccum line. Had to pull the turbo to reconnect the line.
  8. In the beginning of June I installed a Perrin turbo inlet on my 2006 Legacy gt. A few times a week I've been having to readjust the inlet and tighten the clamp back down due to it slipping off the snout of the turbo. Right now I've been using the original clamp but have been looking into other ways to secure this thing to the turbo. I get the inlet fully seated on the turbo but within a few days it slips back a good half inch. Does anyone have any recommendations on clamp types/sizes that might work better?
  9. Looking for either jdm facelift or valenti/hanabi tails for 4th gen wagon.
  10. I had bad luck with subiestickers. The overlay for my front emblem was too large. I measured the emblem to the mm and he sent another one that was too small. I just gave up lol.
  11. Thanks man, I must have been looking at the wrong troubleshooting chart. It started working again for a 5 mile drive, when I restarted it stopped working. Probably going to order the sensor today. Just trying to decide if I should get another Denso or an AEM wideband.
  12. Dealing with a p0031 code in a 2006 Legacy gt. It was happening intermittently for for a few weeks but now it's constant. Afr is stuck at 14.7 on accessport. It is a denso 02 sensor that has 15k miles on it. I checked the resistance on the 02 sensor heater circuit and it's 6.9 ohms. The diagnostic chart said that if it's under 10 ohms the sensor is good so I'm looking elsewhere. The 02 sensor voltage was reading around .6 on my accessport when the car was warmed up. The chart I was following said to check the output signal from ecm while the car is idling. How exactly do I preform this? Do I unplug the connector from the ecm and check the terminals on the ecm? Back probe the connector while it's still plugged in? Any input/advice will be appreciated. I know very little about electricity so I'm learning as I'm going along. Thanks
  13. Starter is most likely original from what I can tell. Yesterday it was in the mid 40's so I tried to jumpstart it and got the same results. Tried to do a voltage drop test on the starter but not sure if I did it correctly. I had a probe on the wire going to solenoid and the other probe grounded. When first cranking it read around 8v but dropped to 6.5v as cranking slowed down.
  14. Tried to start my car this morning, it cranked a few times then I heard a whining sound for a split second. Now it's cranking really slow and won't start. Battery voltage is good and not throwing any CEL's. It was -20 degrees outside this morning. Any ideas? Possibly starter? My neighbor said it probably jumped timing but I don't see how that could happen just starting it. Any input will be appreciated.
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