Plastixx

I have a shift stop, brass cable bushing, and short throw adapter (modified OEM). There's no cure for feel of the DBW + manual trans though. This is my first car with that combo and it's a horrific thing.

I'd like to get another ~2 years out of it. It's only at 92k right now, but it's getting pretty old for a salt belt car. Also need to do a lot of other things to it. Struts, timing belt, and the passenger side of the engine started ticking lightly about a year ago. Hopefully it just needs the lash adjusted and it didn't drop a valve guide. I just hate paying someone else for something I can technically do myself. I'm just not in a position to be able to do it right now. Hopefully it shifts and feels a little better at least. I've driven manuals all my life and this is the first one that I actually loathe having to drive.

Had to call a shop today to get a quote for a clutch job. Clutch fork snapped right when I got home from work. Talk about being lucky and unlucky at the same time. I don't know if the clutch itself really needs replaced, but if I'm already paying the ridiculous labor charge, might as well replace it all. $2175 total.

I don't think it's the problem here, but the solonoid/control valve can be found aftermarket (not a dealer part). It can be difficult tracking down the exact one you need though. Sometimes they just get stuck and a whack on the case with a screwdriver handle can free them up. I wonder how much experience OP's mechanic has with these systems. They don't act like a traditional system. They will cycle the pressure hi/low if there isn't a heat load even if you have the criteria set per the FSM. Temps are still fairly cool in most parts of the country.

I know the point of a variable displacement compressor is efficiency. I was refering to the fact that Subaru still uses the clutch-less variety.

Interesting. Just looked at the compressors being used on late model Subarus and they're still clutch-less. Most other makes use clutched ECVDCs. It has to be a desperate cost cutting measure by Subaru. Can't think of any other reason for it.

I would guess that they chose not to use the ECVDC on the GT because of the performance aspect of the car. Another easy way to tell is if you have a bi-directional scantool. A system with a standard compressor is "dumb", so there's no control module with live data available for it.

That doesn't look like a variable displacement comp. I don't see a control solonoid on the bottom rear corner.

I don't think it is. Do you see a control wire for the coil? The pulley on a clutch-less, variable displacement compressor can look more like a clutch than a regular pulley because it's designed to sheer the outer part from the inner in case of a compressor failure that causes lockup. Early variable displacement compressors were all clutch-less. Eventually they realized how retarted that is, for obvious reasons, and started putting clutches on them.

There is no clutch or fail safe. This excerpt from the FSM isn't there just for shits and giggles... The dealer I bought my car from pulled the engine to put in a new clutch but never refilled the AC. Since I bought the car at the tail end of winter, I didn't even notice that it wasn't working for a couple of months. I discovered the system was completely empty and knew the compressor was probably toast, but tried to refill the system anyway. I purchased a new evap valve and desiccant bag kit, since they should always be replaced if the system is opened and they don't cost that much. When I removed the old desiccant bag, it was completely grey and there were metal flakes in the plastic filter. The internals of the evap valve was also covered in grey metallic oily goo. After replacing the parts and refilling the system the AC worked, but not very well. It's been about 28k miles since then and it's still technically working, but if I watch the OBD live data for the system, it can barely build 100psi on a warm day.

Clogged/faulty purge valve or blocked vent (spiders/bugs) at the canister. It's also possible for the vent filter to get wet if you go through deep water.

I know some of the connectors are for the aux input, steering controls, satellite radio, and USB media hub kit. Pretty sure I only needed the standard harness and an antenna adapter when I installed my DEH-80PRS. Didn't care about losing steering wheel controls. Make sure you get a long antenna adapter, like the Metra 40-SB10-18.

Get the BCA brand hub I already mentioned. It's literally OEM. Reuse the axle nut, it's fine. Only time I've ever used a new nut when doing work is if an axle came with one.

Get BCA from RA. BCA is the same company as NTN, which manufactures the OEM bearings. My FR OEM bearing went bad at 88k. Replaced it a year ago with a BCA. Also, if you live anywhere with snow/salt, they can be pretty stubborn to remove. I got one of those thingamabobs on Amazon for like $60 that you bolt to the hub and smack with a sledge hammer. Made pretty quick work of it.

If you still have the 13 year old OEM struts, I personally wouldn't go through the trouble of putting new springs on them. Get a new set of KYB at the least. They aren't that expensive.