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BAD-WOLF

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  • Location
    Iowa
  • Car
    2005 Legacy GT 5MT
  • Interests
    Turbo cars and stuff!
  • Occupation
    Auto Mechanic

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  1. Thanks for your input, I’m going to check out a 2012 this weekend. Is the MY13 trans only in use on the 13 or other years?
  2. With my fourth gen LGT down for the second time since I rebuilt the engine I’ve been looking into getting a 2011-2014 outback 2.5i to drive while I repair it. I’ve been searching around on both forums for info on the engine and trans combo, but I was hoping I could get some more “personal and prioritized” information about your experiences with this driveline as far as what to look out for and what to expect seeing as the Legacy should share the same driveline option these years. It’s not going to get beat on, that’s what I’m keeping the LGT for it will be strictly a commuter/road tripper. Thanks in advance and if I’m mistaken on any of my above statements pleas set me straight!
  3. I don’t believe so, I know this to be the case on other vehicles such as the Volvo turbo bricks but on ours we seem to have on the fly adjustment.
  4. Anyone know off hand what bulb the 05 JDM headlight uses for the turn signal.
  5. Took everything apart all was aligned and tightened properly. Replaced strut mounts, and it quieted down. Funny thing is they didn't look that bad just weather cracked. But I've learned my lesson, always do the mounts.
  6. I wonder if that is my problem, when I put the new shocks in I put the shaft through the top hat enough to thread the nut on the shaft then released some tension on the spring so it would sit in the lower perch to keep it from spinning while I torqued the nut . The spring appears to be sitting properly in the lower perch. It's more of a clunk, Initially I thought rear sway bark links, I shook those down and they're tight, any other trouble spots I should check?
  7. Well the way I did it was in a wall mount spring compressor. 3 arms hold down the top of the strut mount 3 arms hold the lower portion of the spring. Undo the shaft nut and the strut falls out of the spring. I do it all day at work with no problems. Everything else was done as shown in the walk through. I'll probably be taking it apart and revisiting it all again.
  8. Good ideas, however I have triple checked the shaft nuts for tightness, and the strut mount was never removed from the top of the spring but that is something I will have to double check! The only thing I did out of the ordinary was use the stock flat washer then put on the koni lock washer, then put on the koni shaft nut. Thanks for the input by the way, these things perform amazingly and quite comfortably with the stock springs, that rattle just gets on your nerves rather quickly.
  9. Just installed my rear Koni's waiting until the weekend to install fronts. I'm using stock springs and my stock strut mounts. Strut mounts were never removed from the spring, I did them in a wall mount spring compressor, everything seems tight but I'm getting clunking coming from the rear that was never present before. Was worse on left side, made sure it was tightened down, now is worse on the right side. Any ideas?
  10. That's great info, tell me more! How's the engine doing, how was the tune, what do you suggest? I'd like to ditch this stock tune ASAP, to me that thing is poison.
  11. Since I replaced my shortblock and valve train it's been doing pretty well, just some minor stutter here and there. Thing has just over 500 miles, and I replaced the downstream o2 sensor last night to see if I could smooth out the inconsistent idle. Since then it's seem a little beet more stumbly when I roll into the throttle. But I haven't driven it a whole lot since I installed it, maybe 10 miles or so. Possibly needs to learn new trims? What do you guys think. I'm waiting until the 3k mark when the engine is completely broken in to tune, so I'm running stock tune with a GS Uppipe, but pushing it little by little here and there, breaking it in the way I want to drive it but never revving over 4500-5000.
  12. So there is that much of a size difference or is it a locking tab location issue?
  13. Looking at the turn signal, thinking is it possible (seeing how you notched the housing) that you could notch it so as to use the USDM dual contact signal socket that way you could use a switchback led.
  14. Yes that was my initial assumption, good to see I'm not the only one who thinks so. I told that to one of the senior mechanics at my shop and he just laughed at me, I didn't think it seemed too far fetched but he's one of those Subaruphobes so I don't expect him to know much about my car.
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