Rcnesneg

Please join the Facebook group EZ30R MT Swappers. The Google drive link is there and those guys are super helpful. Mitch Siegel is writing new code for the 2005 since my 2008 code doesn't work for 2005. I no longer have a Subaru - Too expensive to drive - so I got an electric wagon. I won't be around much anymore since I no longer deal with ICE engines - but the Facebook swap group is super helpful. Good bunch of folks.

Legacy GT MT rom is on the romraider website or forum - there's a list with download links to all the stock roms. Search for "Stock subaru ROM" or something like that. There is no H6 MT rom for the US. Other market ROMs may or may not fry the ECU of a US AT H6 car. If you want to do an H6 swap that's the can of worms we worked on in the EZ30R MT Swappers facebook group.

Dual mass is what the Legacy 3.0R Spec B (H6, 6MT) had (As far as I know). I believe USDM Legacy GT Spec Bs also had it. Dual mass is heavier and smoother. So it's harder to stall the engine, and the car is smoother, but doesn't rev as fast. It's easier to drive for a road car. Single mass is rougher, but will rev faster. So if you're building a car for drag racing, use a single mass. I believe the STIs use a single mass also. They also make ultralight flywheels if you're racing.

Does this help? Stock OEM parts for a 2008 Legacy Spec B? https://parts.natewade.com/a/Subaru_2009_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/49239108__6027257/MT--CLUTCH/B13-100-03.html The clutch that is there right now is an Exedy clutch which I believe is the OEM manufacturer, just not subaru branded. I think they make flywheels too but I'm not sure if they make the dual mass for a Spec B.

3 year lease on a Kia Niro EV. Electric car leases are a really good deal, and will be about half the cost to own and operate than my Subaru. Look for EV lease deals and jump on one that's in stock near you. In this case it's $209 a month, plus extra for more miles since I drive a lot. I wasn't real excited about a Kia but thought "Oh whatever, I'll go look at it" and I was very surprised. It's comparable to a brand new outback in terms of quality, space, value, how it drives, etc, except it's electric and has 2" less ground clearance. It's also not AWD. But that's ok with me - it's worth it to go electric. Leasing will also encourage me to not spend all my money on mods. After the lease is up I'm getting an Aptera. (600 mile version with AWD and the offroad kit) The 3.0R was the best gas car I ever had, and I will always have fond memories of it. And the 6MT is the best transmission for sure. I highly recommend the swap if you're wanting to go that route.

Well, The 6MT H6 has sold to it's new owner. In other news, I took it through emissions. No issues and I don't think they even realized it was a manual swap. Which is good, since the ECU, exhaust, etc wasn't touched in the swap. They did an OBD2 check and visual inspection, and possibly a sniffer, I'm not sure. This is in Salt Lake County in Utah. In any case, it means we were 100% successful at swapping a USDM H6 3.0R 5EAT to an H6 3.0R 6MT with fully working emissions, cruise control, vdc, and ABS. And I'm off to my new electric wagon! Send me PMs and they'll end up in my email if it's important. I'll be around. I also get my inbox over on the Subaruoutback.org forum. Cheers to the future!

I saw a bunch of models when I looked... $100 a piece or so...

Yes - I think the general path seems to be do the mechanicals, then start troubleshooting the ECU and whatnot until everything works. Or just do a full swap of all the electrical stuff, cruise control clutch disengage switch, neutral start switch, etc. I have also heard different things from different people doing the same OBXT/LGT swap... One person does it this way and one person does it another way, and their cars may or may not be the same if it's an 05 vs an 07 vs an 09. Basically you may have to figure some stuff out and try some stuff to get it to work on your specific car. I definitely had to figure it out on my car... Also, do a search over on subaruoutback.org. There's a couple of OBXT swap threads over there that may have information.

Read through the entire massive 6MT master swap thread also - there's a lot of information in there. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/6mt-master-swap-thread-107137.html Also here's a DIY walkthrough. This is for the EZ30R 6MT swap - but the mechanicals are all the same for an LGT. Just ignore everything canbus and ecu related in that walkthrough. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ntiKh1Rs9RkUIdw0GFQQPNcwHSUsbam8Vc8odcRlcXU/edit?usp=sharing

For the wagon - See post #273 for the current list. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/roof-rack-systems-legacy-wagon-25336p19.html?t=25336&page=19&highlight=wagon+cross+bars

H6 is the most reliable by far - And I believe the 3.6R is a little better than the 3.0R and a little easier to work on. Also it's less picky on gas needs and has a better cooling system. The 3.0R tends to struggle with cooling a little bit.

Yep - 5x100 with a 56.1mm center bore. So basically any 5x100 subaru wheel. Wheels from other manufacturers don't generally work since they don't have the right center bore. These are basically all fair game: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2239019

That would explain things if you're stuck at 35%... In limp mode with no TCM my 3.0R would run to 100% throttle but just didn't have AVCS and felt super weak. I'm guessing the EJ25 is similar, but not necessarily the same. Is it any different in sport mode? (Ie: switch from drive to M and don't do anything) Tactrix is such a useful tool...

Do you have SI drive? It's limited to 80% or so in I mode... Shouldn't be an issue on an 05. Also, if it's in limp mode due to a CEL or anything like that, it feels pretty weak and AVCS doesn't work.

Actually 05-09 all have mostly the same CANBUS with respect to the TCM. It's just not accessible on the OBD2 port prior to 2008. It's still there, just less of it and it's more hidden. The Er HC codes I've heard are common with the these swaps. I would definitely try the manual ROM and manual/auto identifier pin first on that front. I'm not sure if there is more wiring between auto and manual for the EJ25. I haven't looked into it. If so, you'll probably have to start replacing or replicating wire harnesses, switches, etc. The cruise control is also probably looking for the clutch switch (so you can disable cruise when you push the clutch in).