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tony saurus

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    87
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  • Location
    Nova
  • Car
    11 3.6r
  • Interests
    Metal, wood, leather
  • Occupation
    PDR

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  1. I always try tucking my exhaust as far up under the car as I can. I spent more time and tucked them even further in and higher up. I finally have a tolerable amount of leaks but I was not able to continue work as my brother / sister in law have all of their life in my garage while they search for a new home. Somehow I don’t think they want me welding next to their couches. Stock is a great sound for the ez36. I just need a different type of flow for future completion of current plans. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Odd initial suggestion: check your vacuum lines and fluid level/ condition in the reservoir. Are you experiencing any other drivability issues? Maybe you could do a bleed on your brakes hydraulic fluid to check for general condition. Make sure that all of the calipers are moving freely and that any maintenance on that system is up to date. Only because it is a system full of wearable components, I recommend an awful lot of things before replacing other components. Thankfully valves can be tested for proper operation quite easily and if you are to need to replace one, then you can be certain it has failed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. This is a valid point! Even if: the orange blue pink purple chrome colored wiper fluid if any brand is good or less than such. Then: the condition of components and the care of the vehicle has a larger influence on the longevity of components and their continued functions. Except: the case of detrimental materials and poor practices in upkeep, maintenance and repair. Volkswagon AG has a technical service bulletin (tsb) for those sensors specifically. It’s not AS relevant to other branded vehicles generally. Still relevant and something to keep in mind. During the summer I just throw distilled water in. During the winter: I add some rubbing alcohol and rain-x additive to the tank but not much else. Winters in the DMV are mild Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Not in trend but 2nd gen viper or fd rx-7. The big ole 5th gen legacy/ 4th gen outback is nice but it makes me want for a sleeker , sexier daily. [emoji17] I am a disgrace I know Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Impossible …. There is no way to make this work. All jokes aside: yeah! You can probably swap the plastic carrier above the plate recess over from one trunk to the other and avoid a lot of complications with the camera and the harness is likely the same. I don’t think it’ll give you any problems at all. Once the trunk lid liner is dropped, the lock cylinder is very easy to swap over. The most complicated aspect of this is the human aspect. If you are swapping with another owner, then you may find that this has to be completed more immediately. If that’s the case: remove your lock cylinder in your leisure before the swap to have “in hand” and familiarize yourself with the process of r&i on that component whilst leaving your own trunk lid liner “down”. Will make a swap fast and also less stressful to have visibility. Shouldn’t cause any issues with water / weather considering the angle that the lock cylinder is installed. Good luck and happy wrenching! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Sounds like good news to me. I wouldn’t disregard the replacement of the bushings if they seemed to need it; however, it does sound as if they are not yet failed. I’m glad you could resolve the noise concern without throwing the whole kitchen sink at it. Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Just wanted to check in and see if you had any success with your diagnostic process? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I mean … I hope you empty out your trunk before you ever replace any components lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I’ll never stop appreciating how great this color is at night. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I definitely recommend proper diagnostic process. That said: if it is strictly uneven, then it probably the Swaybar bushings not the endlinks or the Swaybar’s them selves. Check the torque on the brackets for sure and then see if there is any difference with the sway bar installed vs uninstalled. Saw this problem a lot on my Audi’s and it was almost always a 70$ set of bushings instead of all the other multiple expensive components you would never want to replace. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Maybe try renting a cherry picker, verifying the proper tools, and do it yourself. It’s not as hard as people would have you think if it is a complete replacement. Just don’t disconnect any a/c lines [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. You can send both harness to a pro to be merged. That would be a step one worthy of a used engine financially. Step two would probably be an open source tune to get things to talk. Still probably the same price as a used engine . The road ahead is probably as or more expensive than the one you’ve started down already Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I’m somewhat of an anomaly myself. I have good luck with the rain-x wiper blades. But I generally agree that I’ve never seen anyone else get a good pair. [emoji2369] if it works, it works. If it doesn’t, there is always a few good reasons why. Rain-x is a good reason to have a few issues with a multitude of cars Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Yeah it sounds like a bad level sensor. Give it the ole continuity test and see if it’s failed for sure Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I have to ask …. Rain-x fluid ? [emoji28] *puts on flame suit* Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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