148am

Mind giving a brief rundown of the setup you use to tune? A little while back, I tried to track down ECU defs so I could monitor with BtSSM (which I had used in the 05 OB XT that preceded this car). I recall coming close but never finding an exact match for my ECU ID 75221A7707. I'd love to make these improvements but I'm starting from scratch and don't have a whole lot of time available to play around.

Thanks for keeping the informative posts going on this car. My wheezy '11 6MT and I are real jealous of your new torque curve. I haven't gone down the tuning / self-tuning rabbit hole at all -- which am generally happy about given an almost total lack of free time -- but this is making me reconsider.

That's certainly not what I expected you to say. I'll report back if I come up with any info that might be useful to include here, since your threads seem to be pretty encyclopedic.

Thanks for the detail. Sounds like the SuperPro bushes should be safe. I'm not looking to make this Outback into something it's not meant to be, but I would like it to not feel like it's wobbling down the road. Any thoughts on similar improvements to tighten up the rear suspension without rebuilding the entire assembly with new bushings? If I hit a manhole or similar break in pavement with one side or the other, I feel the tail of the car shift it's weight to the outside. Not exactly confidence inspiring and nevermind what it does on a bridge seam in a bend at highway speed. I know the shocks and struts need to be replaced but they're worn, not leaking/damaged. I've had the car less than a year, 80K on it. Was at the dealer for an included oil change recently where I asked them to inspect and test drive. No damaged parts, and "drives like they all do". Great, thanks.

Thanks for the details on these, and for the discount info. Do you have a sense of if the superpro LCA bushes restrict wheel travel towards the end ranges? I don't go rock crawling or anything close to that in my '11 OB, but I want to avoid an overly stiff bushing (compared to stock spring setup) that might send too much stress into the frame mounts.

Cold winter temps, I'd guess. More expansion/contraction.

In skimming back through this thread, I didn't find anyone else's log showing timing (but I probably skimmed right over some, sorry about that). I wonder if anyone who has looked at these things can say if the logged timing data I'm seeing is typical. Looks like odd behavior to my untrained eyes. The log below is with the car at ~190°F, stationary and in neutral (manual trans). Idle is lumpy but steady at 750 RPM, then starts misfiring more sharply when I bring the revs up slightly. Timing is bouncing around during the former, then sets dead even during the latter. What gives? I'm lining up for some more diagnosis this weekend: swap coil packs, check plugs, compression test, test crank position sensor, check for vac leaks. I'll likely run a can of seafoam through the manifold for good measure.

I've read through and have been following this thread, as my recently acquired 05 XT has a no-code misfire on cyl 1 that I've been whittling away at as time allows. Great info in here and thanks to @StkmltS for letting the scope expand a bit along the way. Thanks to @heiche for BtSSM related hardware help. I learned about BtSSM through this thread and got it up and running last week. Excellent program.

Damn, too bad. Not enough demand anymore?

Are you still offering these lines? Link in the first post is dead and I can't find them on your site. Thanks.

Hey folks, my 98 GT wagon needs head gaskets. Anyone have cam sprocket holding and lock tools, and crank pulley holding tool for EJ25D that they are willing to loan or rent? I'm on the northern OR coast so there's a good chance it would involve shipping the tools. Thanks