foodhngr

Sold mine a month ago for 1200. There’s several people in the Subaru B/S/T groups on facebook ready to jump all over them. Ironically, only kept mine for emissions testing as I’ll be moving a lot in the next couple of years, but couldn’t resist cashing out since the market is perfect for them right now.

Thanks for the reply, Max. Unfortunately I'm not finding the answer in that sticky. Maybe I just don't know how to interpret all the info, but I don't see anything glaring that could potentially answer if the rear diff is universal between MT and AT. Well, i already ordered an OEM wheel bearing/hub for $120 and a used OEM axle for $60, so just waiting for those parts to show up. I appreciate the Moog recommendation, but that ship has sailed. Ironically enough, I followed SBT's walk through for the wheel bearing relpacement. Everything was going fine until the axle came out with the wheel bearing and was seized together. That's where the creativity that lead me to my current issues arise from

Anybody with some insight? As an aside, is the rear differential the same as a MT vs. AT on the 05 LGT (I wouldn't think so, but doesn't hurt to ask) if I do have to source a replacement from a junkyard?

Hello LGT family! Come with me as I describe to you my recent misfortunes and field the forum for some advice/diagnosis/opinions. So last week, I was driving along and the rear passenger wheel started making a horrible sound that sounded like metal on metal grinding. I diagnosed a bad wheel bearing by raising the car up and giving the tire a good push/pull test and got a decent amount of play. No biggie, I was planning on doing the rear brakes this past weekend anyway so I might as well throw a new wheel bearing in there. Mistake #1: I cheaped out and bought an autozone wheelbearing for $60. After some research here, OEM is the only way to go with wheel bearings on this car which will be addressed when I figure out the next problem. As I was pulling out the wheel bearing, the old bearing itself was absolutely seized onto the CV axle and i ended up pulling the entire axle out of the rear differential along with the bearing. To complicate things, I tried pressing out the wheel bearing from the axle from a combination of videos I watched on youtube (mistake 2). Now the end of the CV axle where the axle nut screws onto is absolutely torn to hell. I decided to get a cheapy axle off rockauto (mistake 3), which ended up not fitting properly. So extremely frustrated and irritated, I tried to make the OEM CV axle work and managed to get the axle back in with the new wheel bearing, but also simultaneously absolutely thrashed the axle nut threads. Decided to give it a little test spin to see if my desperation efforts were successful or in vain. Since I'm posting here, you can probably guess the result. Anyhow, when driving the car it likes to pull to the right suddenly in a jerky motion AFTER letting off the accelerator. Also at low speeds, the car makes a creaking/crunching/grinding sound when turning right from the wheel/axle in question. Also the ABS light is on (likely due to replacing with a non-OEM bearing). I'm concerned that the rear differential may be damaged and hoping it is actually just the CV axle/bearing giving me these issues and sounds. My current plan is to not drive the vehicle as I certainly don't feel safe at the moment. I'm going to track down and order an OEM wheel bearing and OEM replacement CV axle. Then going to swap the rear differential gear oil out and take it to a shop closeby and have them do the swap cause I'm no longer willing to keep messing with this one axle. Any thoughts/input/suggestions is appreciated.

I'm currently in the same boat as you are. I wasn't very impressed with my most recent tune (done open source at a shop), and due to my current location being far from a reputable tuner, I will be going e-tune. I tried to sell myself on the AP and justify the money, but I can't. You can find the tactrix cable online for $170, then add $250-$300 for a protune in there and you're looking at $500 with tax included. AP is going to be close to $1k with a protune and tax. I'd rather save $500 and sacrifice the convenience factor. As for logging, I'm using a VAGCOM at the moment plus btssm on my phone ($25 total) for the convenience factor. If i need more in depth log, then I can bring the laptop out. But btssm works well to monitor the overall health of the car. So is $500 a reasonable price to pay for convenience that can be achieved another route? In my mind, no.