jmcgliss

Removing the actuators is a real bear - it's very cramped under the dash. My comment was to observe them as you operate the HVAC controls to determine which one is acting up. Subaru online parts diagrams can help you find the part number. The car should be off if you are removing them, and possibly with the battery disconnected for safety.

Clicking from behind the center console could be one of four HVAC actuators that control different functions like mode, temp, etc. A wiper arm and finger-like contacts lose theor trace after so many years and the sound you hear is the armature hunting for a position. Ours made noise for a while after engine shut-off, too. I removed the glove box and observed the passenger side actuators working as they should. That narrowed it down to the driver's side Air Mix temp control actuator. It's not easy to reach so my wiring-frame mechanic handled the repair. Part numbers could vary depending on whether you have Dual climate controls or not.

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Still available: short block and B25 heads

Have: SWP Satin White Pearl trunk lid with wing, complete. POR-15 applied to drain holes (rust on the inner shell only. Exterior appearance is excellent Pictures available. Make offer in cash or PayPal Meet-up location: NE IL, SE WI, NW IN

SOLD For rebuild, this EJ25 short block has ARP studs and JDM oil pump. OEM oil pan is included as well (not shown). Had a #4 cylinder issue despite 3K mile oil changes. Reasonable offers considered within a radius of NE Illinois, SE Wisconsin. B5 heads also available. SOLD

SOLD Take-off stock manifolds and crossover pipe from 2005 Legacy GT. Includes some hardware and O2 sensor as shown. Unsure of value so I'll toss out $125 based on an ebay search. Can meet within a fair radius of 60062 NE Illinois / SE Wisconsin. Willingness to ship is a "maybe" due to weight.

Takeoff from our 2005 Legacy GT. Complete with wing spoiler, wiring harness and plug, latch mechanism, badges and trim, felt cover (not shown). Note that the inside bottom edge has typical rust by the drain holes that were treated with POR-15, none of which is visible when the trunk is closed. Asking $200 and prefer to not ship. Can meet within a fair radius of zip 60035 northeast Illinois / southeast Wisconsin. Will post photos with better lighting soon.

Our 2005 went 150,000 and did have both wax-coating recalls performed. However, it was a half-ass job that allowed corrosion to take root. We had our back seat out because the fuel pump canister had cracked on top - so fuel was the first to leak, not brake fluid. So, new fuel tank and pump from an online Subie dealer in NC wasn't too painful. New OEM rear brake lines (hard lines and flex lines) and junction block from our local dealer. We used our trusted independent mechanic (who still takes my calls, knock on wood). Subaru did give us a parts and service coupon, but they should have done more.

Removal of the sensor wasn't too bad after moving valve cover and OCV breather hoses out of the way. I used a 1/4" swivel and extension coming straight down between the various hoses. What helped is the bolt head was only 8mm, not 10mm so that allowed more clearance. My fear that other parts would block lifting the sensor out were not a problem (red circle in photo). The connector was another story. Someone had mangled the release tab. I verified the connector was still good with my multi-meter. The green circle in the photo is where the new sensor will drop in. EDIT: Road test is good!

So, you're saying the sensor swivels enough to clear the obstruction above it? The new part arrives in a few days. I'll report back with a photo.

Is the passenger side Camshaft Position Sensor removable without much disassembly? It appears that a boss on the intake manifold above the sensor offers no clearance for lifting the sensor up and out. I can find no videos or posts that explain removal of the CPS. Symptoms: occasional hard stutter, occasional stall at idle without warning. P0340 code. Stalling and difficult restarting are worse today. Last month I had an Oil Control Valve code and found a small piece of silicone sealer or gasket inside the valve body (passenger side). Cleaning that solved the problem. The OCV was clean today. Oh, and who designed that heavy steel bracket that is in the way of removing the PS OCV?

I'm in for the 4th also.