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serx7

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    NJ
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    05 OBXT, w/ stuff

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  1. AWDFTW: From what I see in my ATR (keyed to the 2005 USDM Legacy GT Manual), the Cobb OTS Stage 1 maps (91 and 93 oct) do -not- disable the DTC's I mentioned in my 11/20/2016 post above. That is, P0545, P0546 and P1312 are not marked as disabled.
  2. If your AFR reading is coming from the stock O2, keep in mind that that reading bottoms out around 11.1. My stock O2 reading bottomed out at 11.13 while my AEM WBO2 would continue to read into the mid-10's. So, you might be running less lean than you think, or you might not. Your overboost is pretty minor, I wouldn't consider that the primary cause of your issue. The -2.11 deg FKC at 3500 rpm is the one I'd be most concerned about b/c 1) it's occuring at/near peak engine load, 2) it's Feedback knock meaning the timing correction is in response to an actual detected knock event and 3) that FKC increases from -2.11 deg to -3.87 deg which implies to me that additional knock was detected even after 2.11 deg had been pulled out in response to the previous knock event. I would recommend you avoid WOT, esp in that RPM range until you get the cause sorted out.
  3. Most of the big FBKC seen in the log is at light throttle/cruise or during light/moderate throttle shifting. There is one instance where a large correction is made just after letting off the throttle at ~4k rpm from ~30% throttle, with what appears to be no shift involved (or more likely a very very slow shift), time = 552.9 sec, datalog row 6286+. Would seem to be caused by an external/mechanical source. I had very similar logs a few years ago caused by my IPR TMIC buzzing against the pitch stop mount during shifts. There was so little clearance b/n the bottom of the TMIC and the pitch stop mount that it didn't take much rocking of the engine to cause the TMIC to make contact w/ the pitch stop mount.
  4. I would pay attention to any knock that appears in a datalog, esp at WOT. FLKC indicates that at some point, actual knock did occur and the ECU decided to make a learned/stored/proactive correction for it. If the car is repeatedly run through the affected load/rpm and no additional noise is detected, it will in time start experimenting with adding some of the timing back. If the setup/tune is prone to actual knock in that load/rpm range, it will eventually knock again there and pull timing again in response. You can tell if a given instance of FLKC in a datalog is from a previously learned correction or in response to an actual knock event that occurred, by logging the Knock Sum parameter. If Knock Sum does not change when FLKC appears in the log, it's a learned/stored correction from a prior actual knock event. If Knock Sum increments at the same time FLKC appears in the log, an actual knock event has most likely just been observed. Agree on the suggestion to adjust the tune if the FBKC in OP's logs continues to appear in that same load and RPM range. Since it looks like it's occuring above the threshold at which FLKC is enabled, the ECU won't learn/store a timing correction there via FLKC and will therefore allow for actual knock to occur and then reactively apply a timing adjustment (FBKC). It would be a fair bit safer for FLKC to be applied there (and safer yet to pull down timing a little in the tune instead).
  5. To add to my response above... I took a look at the stock 2005 LGT/OBXT (my car) and 2006 LGT tunes, and it looks like Fine Knock Learning is disabled when engine load exceeds 2.20 g/rev and is re-enabled when engine load drops below 2.10 g/rev. One of your logs shows the knock event occurred at 2.16 g/rev, while the other log shows the knock event occurred at 2.31 g/rev. In the log that showed the 2.16 g/rev knock event, engine load was actually > 2.20 g/rev a short time before, and so I think fine learning mode was disabled when the knock event occurred, and probably explains why a FBKC was applied. In the log that showed the 2.31 g/rev knock event, since engine load was > 2.20 g/rev, fine learning mode was disabled and that too would probably explain why FBKC was applied. So... if your car tends to see engine loads > 2.20 g/rev, if the car registers a knock event, the ECU won't ever learn a correction there, it'll just let it knock (actual knock) and then reactively pull timing via FBKC (feedback knock correction), as opposed to learning a correction there and proactively pulling timing to avoid an actual knock event. If you continue to see FBKC being when engine loads are greater than 2.10-2.20 g/rev, I would recommend either getting a tune to fix this (but maybe do some upgrades to make it more worth it or finding someone who can make this particular change for you (I or anyone else w/ the requisite familiarity and software can do this). It's a simple change to make, alter one or 2 table/cell values in the knock control section, save the map, flash it to the ECU. This was one of numerous changes I made to the original protune that was done on my car 3.5 yrs ago. If you can get the required open source hardware/software, it'll cost less than going the AccessPort route.
  6. IME I usually see FLKC when a knock event occurs and engine load is not changing rapidly, but in any case, from the 2 logs you posted it looks like there might be a bit too much timing (or a not enough fuel - but probably not since I believe the stock tune runs pretty rich) in the 4000-5000 rpm range. As shutterbc mentioned, keep an eye on it. If you continue to see FBKC in that rpm range, you might want to consider getting that looked into. If your car tends to register knock events at those load/rpm regions and the correction mode is always feedback as opposed to fine learning, the car will actually knock each time. If the correction mode was Fine knock learning, after the initial knock event, the ECU would proactively pull back timing in an attempt to avoid additional actual knock when the engine is subsequently run through the learned load/rpm region.
  7. Didn't realize this thread existed, been on here like 3.5 yrs. Here's mine:
  8. I'm looking at the Cobb Stage 2/93 octane OTS map in ATR and it has (among others) P0545 (EGT sensor circuit low) and P0546 (EGT sensor circuit high) disabled. It also disables P1312 (Exh temp sensor malfunction).
  9. In my case it could be either/both, as I treat the latch and the cable at the same time. If/when the hood doesn't close, I'll treat the latch separately, then the hood closes no problem, and the issue doesn't recur for several months. So I know it's at least sometimes the latch. It sounds like A_Tang's symptoms are more severe/urgent than mine. Even when mine sticks, it always pops free after a few pulls/snap-backs of the release lever from inside the car, even during the winter.
  10. I do that twice a year, and at least twice a year it starts to get stuck The tell-tale sign of impending trouble is when I go to close the hood and it doesn't latch shut on the 1st try. Within a day or 2, the latch/cable gets slightly stuck. I'll keep the spray through the grill trick in mind next time it starts acting up, although I think your suggestion is probably intended for A_Tang.
  11. Something similar happens to my car on an annual/semi-annual basis. I pull the release lever inside the cabin and barely feel any resistance until the lever is nearly at the fully open position. As luck almost always has it, this happens when I'm the only one at the house and none of the neighbors are around. If it's 'almost working' like this, I can usually get the hood release latch/cable to 'break free' by repeatedly pulling the in cabin lever all the way open and letting it snap back to the closed position. I usually have to do this several times and then it finally starts working again. If it ever gets really stuck and no one's around to assist while I push down on the hood a bit, I'll put a few bricks on leading edge of the hood and see if that lets the latch release. Kidding
  12. Did you mean like this, or does disabling a DTC this way not necessarily disable pending codes? (example RR screen shot) https://flic.kr/p/Lkh8oj
  13. i have a pic on my phone I can post if necessary but I grounded it w/ the power steering return bolt, per suggestion by Company23. their 1st suggestion was to use the bolt on the engine cover bracket, but that doesn't exist on my car (was that way since taking ownership of it 2.5 yrs ago).
  14. ^^ Cool. Let us know how things go w/ it. I installed mine several days ago. Got a P0245 immediately. I needed to reverse the polarity of the connector to get it to work. WGDC needed to be -significantly- higher than what I needed w/ the GS EBCS, at first I thought the Company23 EBCS wasn't even working. I needed to raise WGDC to 72-74% post compensations in the 3k-4k rpm range to hit my 19.7 psi target vs 42% w/ the GS EBCS, and I needed to change up TD a fair bit for control. My contact @ Company23 tells me this is expected. I'm not so sure. Still dialing in spool behavior but have it pretty close. Dave, I might ping you via email for a quick sanity check.
  15. I popped for the Company23 EBCS this afternoon, since it's on sale @ Rally Sport Direct through Feb 8 IIRC. Should arrive possibly on Fri. Aside from the flutter/surge that seems to persist even with conservative spool targets, I have boost pretty well dialed in w/ the GS EBCS, so it'll be interesting to see how it behaves and what boost ctrl changes might be needed. I plan on preserving my current spool targets for comparison purposes.
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