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Does anybody know the difference between the 2005/2006 throttle body and the 2007-2010 throttle body? The part numbers are different (16112aa020 and 16112aa230) and they look a little different. I have a brand new one for a 2009 but my 2005 is throwing two TPS codes, P0123 and P0223. I am fighting anther issue and just want to see if I can get the car to start with a different TB. I really don't think the TPS code is my issue right now but not 100% sure. I have several sensors unplugged and just noticed this code. I used a Subaru Select Monitor and it picked up the codes. The Snap-On I used did not pick up the codes. Different thread with my no start condition, no spark on two of the cylinders and it is not the coils, Cam PS Crank PS or wiring. Right now just curious about doing a TB switch. Thanks

I have a 2005 GT turbo automatic that is bone stock and will not start. I have another post with all those details but right now I have 1 very specific question that I can not find an answer to that may be my root cause. When I do all my trouble shooting everything (cam and crank position sensors) are exactly correct. OHMS out right, sends the proper wave form, correct voltage everywhere. However, when I try to start it my passenger side cam position sensor sends a 1.5 volt signal only when excited. My driver's side sends a constant 5 volt signal then drops 1.5 volts when excited. When I stop trying to start it the passenger side sends a .25 volt signal and my driver's side sends a constant 5 volt signal. If I turn the key off and completely power down the car both side only send a .25 volt signal when I just turn the key to the on position. I have tried multiple cam position sensors and switched them from side to side with the exact same results. Is a constant 5v from the driver's side and a constant .25v from the passenger side normal? Also, should the signal only be 1.5 V? Thanks in advance.

Still fighting this but found an issue that may be the root cause. Re-checking everything I found something odd with the cam position sensor signal line. I have 12 volts at the power line. Here is what I find checking the signal line: When I ran these tests all were checked at B20 terminal and at the sensor to confirm numbers. Previously I checked at the ECM and it agreed with everything I saw at B20 and the sensor.s I have swapped the cam position sensors from side to side with the same results. Car off 0 volts all conditions. Ignition on and unplugged from sensors: 5 volts both sides. Ignition on unplugged from sensors and cycle the starter: 5 volts both sides. Ignition on plugged into unmounted sensors: .25 volts both sides. Ignition on plugged into unmounted sensors and cycle the starter: .25 volts both sides. Ignition on and plugged into mounted sensors: .25 volts both sides. Ignition on and plugged into mounted sensors and cycle the starter: 5 volts driver’s side and .25 volts passenger’s side. Checked the wave form at B20 and ECM and the wave form appears to be correct however, the driver’s side goes from around 5 volts to around 0.25 volts and passenger’s side from around 0.25 volts to around 5 volts. I have a cheap oscilloscope so my readings are not perfect for the wave form. My multi-meter is a very good one so confident in it’s numbers. Waiting for a decent multi-channel oscilloscope to ship to me.

Yes. Grounds are good.

No back fire at all and all the marks are perfect. Even had them double checked by a mechanic friend. We are all at a loss.

Yes all the signals are the same at the ECU and coil. No the coil connectors are correct, 100% sure. Did not ohm the wire from the ECU to the coil connector. Any idea what the ohm range should be?

Checked the signal and the ECU and exactly the same as at the coils. Anybody have any ideas? I really don't want to buy an ECU without being sure I need one. Not a big fan of just changing parts without diagnosis first.

Yes. 100% sure.

It will not start it acts like it want to but nothing. I have fuel and even used starting fluid and no change. Yes I took the fuse out to do some of the diagnostics but have since put it back in. I did several of my checks at the ECU but not the coils, glad you brought that up I need to check them back there.

I have a 2005 GT with an auto transmission and 117k miles. Bought it as a project and had to rebuild the engine because of a piston problem. When I bought it, it ran but had blow by pumping oil into the intercooler. Cylinder 1 and 4 have good spark. Cylinder 3 will spark the first time you turn the key then stops, litterally 1 spark. Cylinder 2 has no spark. I verified my observations with an oscilliscope on the signal line. Voltage is 12 volts to all four coils and good grounds. I know it is not a faulty coil because I checked it with multiple coils and the oscilliscope. I have checked the crank position sensor and appears to work fine on the oscilliscope. Ohms were in range with the service manual. Also checked the cam position sensors. Again, signal consistant with the service manual and voltage was correct. The car will not start but is not throwing any codes. If I try to strt it with the sensors unplugged, it will throw codes. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.