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MyMomsOutbackXT

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  • Location
    SLC, UT
  • Car
    2007 OBXT 5EAT
  • Interests
    Spending too much $ on my car

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  1. So I'm rebuilding my engine ATM. When taking valve lash measurements I realized many of my valves would require a bucket shim that is even smaller than a 438 (The smallest Subaru makes) One of my cams is even touching the buckets. After talking to a mechanic buddy, he said it's likely that the cam journal has just been worn down due to use (They have almost 200k on them) and that I'd probably just need new cams. He also said it was possible the valve seats and cam journals had been machined too far on the heads and I would need new heads which would suck. I was thinking it may be possible to buy just the cam that is touching the buckets, and then use a drill press to file down the other buckets that are too close but not touching on the other cams. But my guess is that wouldn't be safe, so I probably won't. What's the best solution for this? Buying all new cams? Taking it to a machine shop and seeing if they can cut the valve stems to size? Thanks for any help
  2. Not sure if any of those that replied have subbed, but I'll hope you all have because I'd like some feedback. I'm thinking of maybe just shooting for 350whp instead. If I do this, would I be fine on the regular 'ol Type RA pistons? They're already out of the block, and I already have the forged pistons at my house. But I don't want to put in forged pistons that aren't gonna last if I'd be fine on the stock pistons. If I do use the Type RA pistons I'll open up the ring gap of course since they're already out of the car. If I swap in forged pistons and still keep it at 350 whp, would the block last just as long despite expansion issues seen with forged pistons? Basically the car will be a weekend car, but I'd like to drive it nice and hard on the days I do take it out. Canyon runs, flexing on friends while we cruise, etc. Don't wanna feel like I have to baby it while driving. That being said, maintenance wise, it will be babied. Always fresh oil, won't stand for any kind of leak or CEL without fixing it before the next drive, etc.
  3. I do of course plan on allowing my car to properly warm up, using Motul 5w-40, and doing oil changes every 2-3k. Wouldn't be pushing 400whp all the time, but would want to be able to do it every now and again without fearing the block will blow up after every pull.
  4. Haha nah my username is just a joke since an OBXT is kinda a mom car. I'm shooting for 400whp, and the car isn't my DD. (Yes I have read the "are you sure you want 400whp" threads). Don't quite trust the type RA pistons from the shortblock I bought. But also don't wanna throw in forged slugs for the block to only last 20k miles.
  5. Good thinkin. I sent them an email. Only reasons I didn't send one earlier is because I'm expecting the answer to be "Depends on how the car is driven/maintained. Can't give an estimate" and that's that. The reason I came to the forum is I was hoping for a large pool of info, so that me and any others with the same question can find people with a similar build/maintenance habits/diving habits and extrapolate an estimate from that.
  6. Okay so there is many articles and forums out there stating that forged pistons decrease engine longevity due to the piston slap you get on startup. But how much of a difference it makes is really largely up for debate, so I figured, with a collection of car enthusiasts where installing forged pistons is basically a right of passage as big as the subie community, it would be a waste not to pool all this data. So my question is, how far did your engine run/has your engine run with forged pistons? At how much HP? Which brand were they? Which size? and how hard do you drive your car? The Poll provides nice general info but I'd love to get some more detailed responses. Let's get to the bottom of this!
  7. Hey! I’m rebuilding my engine, and while it’s out I figure I might as well do a secondary air pump delete and a TGV delete. I’ve heard on some subarus the baro. Sensor is in one of those places, just wanna make sure I don’t accidentally delete that too haha. Anyone know where the baro sensor is on a 2007 outback xt / legacy Gt?
  8. Yeah, I've heard that. Kinda why I'm leaning towards meth rather than e85. If only we lived in a state that had e85 o'plenty.
  9. I am not starting from scratch, over time I've upgraded brakes with slotted rotors, SS lines, I also have sway bars and coilovers, nice grippy tires, and regarding the 5EAT situation I have the IPT upgraded valvebody allowing it to hold higher power better. My tuner also has the torque coming in pretty late to go easier on the tranny. That's a good point regarding drivetrain loss. I guess 400whp on a 5EAT is 5ish% more crank hp than an MT.
  10. I might just go for 350 and save myself the headache. 400whp has been a long-time goal of mine but I'm considering giving it up. It seems like no matter what it's hard to have a reliable(ish) 400whp Subaru. Go with a built block, sacrifice longevity, or go with a stock block, and run the risk of blowing it. It's tough. Thinking of maybe getting 2 tunes, both on meth, 1 at 350whp that I would run 85% of the time and another at 400whp for special occasions. Get the best of both worlds.
  11. This is reassuring to hear, thank you. Maybe I will go with forged pistons after all. Still having a really hard time making up my mind
  12. Got the IPT valvebody in my 5EAT, hoping that'll help keep it together I wish. Live in Utah, only e85 pump is an hour away
  13. Okay, I've been reading so many forums that say so many things and I truly can't make up my mind. Here's my story. I have a 2007 OBXT that I recently decided to rebuild with the goal of 400whp with FBO and an FP Blue. I opted for the new Type RA Block that has been rumored to be able to hold that level of power very well. I then did enough research that scared me into wanting forged pistons, but then read numerous threads stating forged pistons wear down cylinder walls and such on cold starts and that you really can't expect a long lasting engine with them. They're more made for cars that are towed to a track, beat up, and then towed home a few times a year. Now I want to go with Meth injection to reach my goals, but this leaves me terrified that I will spend all this time and money on my engine just to get ringland failure or something due to stock internals. I guess I'm just looking for some general input and advice on what the knowledgeable people on this forum think I should do.
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