SirSpen

I actually already went in to get tested just for kicks (before my initial post) to see if i'd pass after i reset the code using my OBDII but like you said, i must not have driven it 60 miles yet as they told me it wasn't ready - But i did pass the visual inspection which is nice. However now that i have driven it and the codes reset, the code is back. But you are saying as long as my tuner deletes/disables the code, it will pass emissions? This would be nice. don't really want to spend more time swapping DPs back and forth..

Hello all - I have a catted invida down pipe and catless invidia up pipe (among a few other mods). Haven't tuned it yet, i want to get it passed emission first. Obviously i'm getting a P0420 (P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold) so my current plan is to just switch to my stock DP for emissions purposes. Question - Will having a catless up pipe by itself cause P0420? I know all states are different but from an initial search, it seems like most people are okay with just catless up pipe. Also if anyone has recommendations for alternatives for the DP swap that i'm not aware of, feel free I don't want to go the non-fouler rout for the DP - my state (UT) does visual inspections as well and i think it would be pretty obvious if the inspector has a brain.

Solved! Well fixed but the mystery is still there. I bought a tactrix (need it for my etune anyway) and disabled all TGV related codes that i got before i did the delete. Still no start. Called a towtruck and took it into a local subaru specialty shop (brought it in early for a custom catcabk build and they said they'd look at my no start issue). Before they started on anything, they did their normal pre work inspection, checked wiring harness, coils, grounds, crank position sensor etc. They everything looked okay and it started right up for them! Wtf. I'm starting to think it was the gas and that @dgoodhue was right. Maybe the flatbed ride from my house to the shop was able to mix up the gas and helped the thing start? I'm at a loss but idc... it finally starts

Update - I checked fuses everything looked fine. I had a second MAF (all three sensor wires looked shiny and brand new) put that in and still no start. Still haven't tried replacing gas (basically a full tank :/ ) but i picked up a code reader and am getting the following codes: 2016 - intake manifold runner position sensor/switch circuit low (bank 1) 2021 - Intake Manifold Runner Position sensor/switch circuit low (bank 2) 2008- Intake manifold runner control circuit/open (bank 1) 2011 - intake manifold runner control circuit/open (bank 2 ) These are obviously related to my TGV delete (2021 and 2016 TPS sensor and 2008 & 2011 related to the TGV motors i believe), however i think the folks at IAG may be right - that is that I may need a new tune before the car will start. The odd thing is that prior to the TGV delete (and the primary reason i did the TGV delete) I was getting code P2007 (Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 2) which put my car into limp mode. Has anyone ever done a TGV delete AFTER having TGV TPS sensor/TGV motor codes? i'm wondering if this is my issue.

Nice the wd40 trick worked like a charm. I assumed I somehow messed it up but like I said it looked fine. Sprayed on a little bit on the nipple and clicked right in. Thanks!

It was weird it kept cranking them abruptly stopping. I was freaking myself out like worried I dropped something in my cylinders or something lol. Manually turned the crank and it seemed okay. Took my battery in and got it tested at oriely and they said its good but I still have the hunch its an electrical issue. Going to replace a few sketchy looking corroded grounds tomorrow and hopefully it will start! Also I called IAG (manufacturer of the TGV deletes that I bought and installed) and he seemed to think it was common for cars not to start up due to too much air at cold start (too lean i guess) without tuning it first. Can anyone confirm this?

Sorry, elbow hit the enter key and posted before i was done typing. whoops ....Fourth attempt, no cranking and i'm not sure if its an electrical issue (ground/battery issue) or if the engine is seized up. I had the car hooked up to my wife's car for each attempt so i don't think there is a lack of current but from what i understand, it could still be a bad battery cell? Before the mods, car ran fine. Tomorrow i'm going to buy a multimeter to test the battery to get tested and hopefully its just a bad battery. With the car sitting so long, i wondered if i didn't properly prime the oil feed... which is why i'm so nervous. Any suggestions are appreciated

Background - i just finished a few mods, TGV delete, turbo banjobolt filter removal, individa catless up, indivia catted down (planning on Cryo etune but i wanted to make sure my car started before i buy it). I went to start the car for the first time this afternoon (after sitting for about 4 months) and of course it had a dead battery - used my wife's car to charge the battery and gave it my first attempt - engine sputtered a bit like it almost started but no cigar. I tried again this time only cranking and not even a sputter. Next time only cranking. Fourth attempt, no cranking and i'm not sure if it's a electical issue of

Has anyone purchased a subaru fuel hose removal tool that worked well? I did a quick Google search on a removal tool for subaru and found a few cheap options but I've read that they are hit and miss. From what I've read, it seems like subaru has fairly unique fuel hose disconnect fittings. I used two 90 degree small pick tools to disconnect the two fuel hose that go from the regulator to the fuel lines and apparently I buggered one of them up so now it won't reconnect, although it looks perfectly fine... Also if anyone has an old fuel hose (top hose from regulator to fuel lines), I'll buy that from you and pay shipping I would prefer not to pay $100 for an oem one

Thanks guys. When it comes to electricity, I definitely over think things

Where on the block exactly? Was it in the same spot as Chocoholic005' picture? That spot on my block already has a bolt through it (hex head) but would be ideal since i wouldn't have to extend or modify the ground cables. I was hesitant to take the bolt out because i'm not sure what it is for. Do you think i should be okay?

Oh okay I see now. It looks like on my block that spot already has a bolt (hex head) in there. Did you take it out and have to use a longer bolt to attach your bracket or was that threaded hole empty?

Thanks for the response. Yea after looking at it, it might make the most sense to extend just to the frame instead of the block

I am getting ready to put my intake manifold back on after installing IAG TGV Deletes and a few other things (https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-Black-CNC-Side-Feed-TGV-Housings-2005-06-LGT-p/iag-afd-3003bk.htm). The issue is that the new TGV housing on the driver side doesn't have the bracket for the two ground connections (like the stock one has). I'm assuming someone else has run into this issue with the deletes... If so, where have you mounted those two grounds? The two grounds wires are pretty short, so i'm guessing ill have to extend them. After a bit of searching i couldn't seem to find the answer to this question. Potentially because i think most people who do TGV deletes just gut out the stock ones and retain the ground bracket. Any help would be appreciated!