rhino6303

One other great option for oem parts is partsouq.com. Massively discounted and worldwide 2-3 day shipping. Also, I think the NTK is the oem supplier for vvt actuators.

I believe he bought oem densos that are 565cc, just like stock.

Found it. It's 05 sti and 7mm depth. I bumped the thread with the information. I'd love someone to try this as it would really make full brembo swaps easy.

Bumping this up for wydtyl thread.

That might be a game changer if all you'd have to do is machine out a 7mm depth for an LGT hub to fit rear brembos. In theory it's easy on a mill. I might have to try to find some 05 sti backing plates and give it a shot. Bumping this up for the wydtyl thread.

I can't remember where or who but there was a post here and a reply by me. The post was something like the 04 sti rear brake setup is the same as the jdm Legacy but the 04 setup needs to be machined down by 1-2mm to accept our hub.

Another option is to replace the 1/8 npt fittings on the ebcs with larger diameter hose fittings. Mettleair has these that are nickel plated brass to match the original type. You can do 1/16" all the way to 3/16" hose diameter. https://www.mettleair.com/store/brass.html?cat=78&p=4

You slide the bearing on the fork then install the fork on the pivot pin.

https://images.app.goo.gl/Q2xGeh7dAAp84qbg6 Should look like this.

The bearing looks normal to me. The ears wrap around the fork. There should be a clip that holds the fork to the pivot pin on the trans; that's the only clip I've ever seen on my clutch setups. Take a picture of the new bearing on your fork. If it doesn't look right you may need to buy a new fork.

Spec B mounts are 01A.

Your boost (and timing) is really the issue with swapping exhaust manifolds as you'll hit higher boost with lower load values. Do you have the ability to run a lower boost map? If you can, run it and you should be ok; this is assuming you stay out of high load/boost driving. If you can't change your map, you should be fine ONLY if you can keep out of boost and moderate/high loads. This would mean staying under 3.5k and slow acceleration pretty much all of the time until you can get a retune.

If you're having fuel issues I wouldn't go WOT at all. It's a recipe to explode and melt things. Lean under load = bad day. Misfiring and high afr at idle is commonly a vacuum leak. You should log the following on your AP: Short term a/f correction, Long term a/f correction, AFR #1, MAF, Load, RPM. Post these values at cold start, cruise, and warm idle.

I think it's time for a compression test. This is simple and will at least point to or rule out whether an internal issue if it exists.

Rockauto usually.