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lilredwagon

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About lilredwagon

  • Birthday 07/15/1976

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  • Location
    Los Angeles, CA.
  • Car
    2008 Outback XT

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  1. My stock OBXT wheels fit fine on my OBXT when I had it lowered on Swift wagon springs and JDM LGT Bilsteins.
  2. Mine sounds like that, but not as bad. I'd say that if it feels normal, and if you have the funds to get the 6 speed, then just drive it until it breaks or gets worse. If it's a problem, it'll get worse. If it's not, it'll just be annoying. It's no Honda Accord that's for sure.
  3. No firsthand experience. I 6sp swapped my WRX because I wanted the 5x114.5 wheel bearings and the gearing. But I was planning to do the blast plates on the OBXT whenever I had the transmission out to do the clutch.
  4. Blastplate the 5 speed, and you should be fine. I would count that as another 'may as well do it while everything's out' job.
  5. I have that same whine from my transmission. For me, it started when I changed my dogbone to one with harder bushings. And other cars I've driven with aftermarket dogbone/engine/tranny mounts have exhibited the same whine. I think it's totally normal and the reason why those stock mounts are so soft - to absorb all the drivetrain noise.
  6. So, in diagnosing the misfire, have you tried swapping parts to other cylinders to see if the misfire code moves to another cylinder? That's usually my first step in diagnosing a misfire. I know you changed a lot of these parts, but it still might be worth it to try. At least that would rule out if one of the plugs/wires/injectors isn't working properly. Next I would do a smoke test. I understand that it's NA, but vac leaks affect NA cars too. I'd also run a can of seafoam through the intake to see if that changes anything. 200K could have a bunch of carbon buildup on the valves. Just my thoughts on cheap or free things you could try before firing the parts cannon at it.
  7. I'd also double check all the hose clamps to make sure there isn't a hose coming off, or a vac leak somewhere. Otherwise, yeah, check the ignition components on the right bank. That side sits right above and next to the uppipe, so sees more heat than the other side. Edit: Oh whoops, I came in here to wish everyone a Merry Christmas. Merry Christmas if you celebrate it!
  8. If you actually want a drift car, it would be more economical for you to just buy a drift car and keep your LGT as your daily. As mentioned, you're going to go through engines and transmissions, in addition to body panels and whatever else gets messed up in the many crashes you endure while learning the car. I'm not trying to be a buzzkill on your idea - sliding a car is fun - but just consider that you'll be sinking a few grand into an LGT just to get it to slide, and when it does, it's not the best platform for it, so when it goes, it won't be with ballerina-like grace. Whereas you use the same amount of money and get a beater 240, E30, Miata, etc, and you'd already be mostly there. And when it's in the shop (it'll be in the shop a lot unless you plan on getting good at doing bodywork in your driveway), you can drive your LGT. Edit: And ignoring what car you're actually going to put it on, if you want a predictable breakaway of the rear end, you'll need a mechanical LSD. Apparently these new cars with the E-LSDs work well enough, but I don't imagine you're talking about $80K+ cars here. Below that, open, VLSDs, and even some Torsen diffs, are all unpredictable relative to a mechanical LSD. They are usually a large contributor to when a car gets a reputation of having snap oversteer.
  9. If you're trying to make it more tail happy, you'll need a rear LSD as well. The stock VLSD won't do. You can slide a lot of RWD cars with an open diff, butt a Subaru is very front heavy, and usually lifts the inside rear when you setup the swaybars to be more rotation-friendly. With the stock VLSD, you'll just lift the inside tire and spin it in the air. I say this from experience. I've had my 5sp turned RWD by welding the center diff, and you can slide it, but it's super unpredictable with the stock rear diff. You can pretty much only do donuts with that setup. Now, it has the version 8 JDM 6sp with DCCD and a Cusco rear LSD. That transmission has a 35:65 geared center split (not all 6 speeds are split like that), a torsen LSD on the front, a Cusco rear, and a DCCDpro controller, it works well. The thing is that it still isn't stupid easy like a high powered RWD car. It's a grip car, so there's that, but you need to do a clutch kick to get it sideways, but once it's there, it's beautifully controllable. It also has 420whp, which is also necessary to keep things cooking. It's a road course car, so it would probably be easier to drift if it was actually built as a drift car, but the point here is that it'll take much more than just center diff torque split to make it a drift car.
  10. Took care of hatch wiring today. Now my liftgate locks and unlocks with the remote again!
  11. I did exactly this. On my other car, there is a strut tower bar obscuring access to the top adjustment. So I just used a small tube, I don't know what size, but I believe it was more than 1/4". Maybe 1/2"? But I squeezed one end in a vice, and bent the other end into a right angle so I could turn it. Works great!
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