Omegared1

Replacing it was super easy. Advanced Auto Parts had exactly what I needed. So, the car was sitting for 3 plus years and it was seized on. The bolt head was already stripped, so I was just a matter of time. Just glad to know it was easy to fix.

Awesome! Much better option than expected. Looks like those lines are very easy to work with. Thanks for the assist Max & Apexi!

2006 LGT Limited So today I began the task of changing a frayed steel braided brake line on the passenger side, and the end that connects to the line broke. Does anyone know what the part number is for that line/pipe? Not sure if it's this part: https://parts.kearnymesasubaru.com/p/Subaru__Legacy/Brake-Pipe-Pipe-ABS-LHD-Front/49235536/26514AG01A.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla&device=m&userLocation=9031861&kwd=&matchtype=&device=m&network=g&userLocation=9031861&googleCampaignID=1672110615&googleAdGroupID=66505488202&googleAdID=323787698083&googleExtensionID=&gclid=CjwKCAjwsMGYBhAEEiwAGUXJafPCfTUPcHfAXdNbafl1AP0BnXBgWtA5I5yzvrbmxUvKRdtCSB9FbRoCcE0QAvD_BwE I just need one line, not the whole assembly. I traced the line and it goes to the ABS control module. Getting close, but still don't know if I can buy just the broken line. Thanks All for any direction anyone can give.

Okay thanks for the feedback. Seems the general concensus is to drive it. Out of town right now, but will give it a try next week and report back if anything changes.

I have an 06 LGT Limited, and found the Powersteering Pump o-ring was leaking fluid. I replaced the o-ring, and while trying to bleed the system, the wheel is now vibrating like crazy even turning it slightly. This was my approach, wheels off ground, Powersteering resevior off, turn wheel side to side for a duration of 5 minutes, three sets. Check the fluid level and top-off if needed. Once I didnt see any bubbling, I covered the reservoir, then removed the fuel pump fuse, and cranked it several times to see if the fluid went down or remained constant. Once it stayed constant, I turned the car on, and the pump whines for a little then goes away. I try turning the wheel, and it just vibrates no matter the direction. What could cause this? Air in the lines? I've been bleeding this damn thing for three weeks now, and let it rest for days at a time betfore bleeding it again. And nothing seems to change. From what I can tell there are no visible leaks on top or below. I even swapped out the pump and the samething happened. Could it be a busted steering rack? This is a bloody mystery at point. Thanks for any suggestions, I really appreciate it

Okay, so I finally got things squared away today. After a little back and forth with the shop, they decided to get me some replacement heads. Picking those up tomorrow. They refunded me all that I spent, and was overall, very professional about the whole thing. Again, thanks to all contributors on this post. Your knowledge and guidance are bar none, and I was able to make the right decision based on your individual input. Z!

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm doing what I can to not go chernobyl. I will talk with the manager/owner of the shop today and see what he proposes. No way in hell am I installing these. I'll ask for my money back for install, the cost of the guides, and cost to replace the heads. What makes me even more upset is when I initially spoke with the owner he said in 20 years he's never seen anything like this, but when I got a call from them on Tuesday 10/6, they have the balls to tell me they see this all the time and install them on cars like that. Bullish!t! More on this issue later.

Recently had some GSC Power Division Stopper Style guides pressed in my cylinder head, and the shop that did the job cracked 8 of 16 valve boss guides. I've counted about 12 fractures and uploaded a sample. Its clear to me they did not heat up the cylinder or freeze the guides before pressing or air-hammering them in. The shop is saying that their guy who installs these says its okay to run because he sees this kind of stuff all the time. I'm like "wtf?!!! That makes no sense". What happens when the heads heat up from normal driving? Heaven forbid me hitting the rev limiter. I contend that those cracks will just continue to grow. Am I wrong? I am not about to take any chances with one of these fragments breaking off and damaging the head. Not sure what to do at this point, the shop still has the head trying to figure it out on their end, but now I'm wondering if anyone else has dealt with this in the past, or is currently in my situation. Also, how did you remedy it.