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Chemicalogic

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About Chemicalogic

  • Birthday 11/08/1985

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    Raleigh, NC
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    2005 BP 5EAT
  • Interests
    Cars, computers, outdoors, disc golf.
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    People Management

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  1. Yes, still available at the moment. Have mostly been driving my truck in the winter so mileage hasn't changed much since the last post update.
  2. Bump - The actuator part number Subaru has stored actually does not fit the car, and mulled this and other options over with my parts guy. However, the PCB wafer (the brains of the thing and part that usually fails) and all other parts except the final gear/arm are all the same. I swapped the new internals into the actuator and put everything back together - works like new. For anyone searching the forums in the future that comes across this post, just be careful pulling apart the old actuator housing. The clips on the rear of the housing with the final gear are not meant to be pried with force and you will need to re-use them. Apparently the correct part number actuators that were plug-and-play (feels wrong to say that since the dash has to come out to replace this) might not be available... ever. I took photos but not really feeling like putting together a new post on the topic. I might if someone requests it, just ping me if you want more info. TLDR: Driver side blend door actuator is fixed/replaced so heat is back. Also new: Gas cap, fuel pump hangar assembly, fuel tank hangar gasket, complete battery tiedown assembly. Also yes, still for sale and this won't be posted elsewhere any time soon, it's currently an LGT.com exclusive listing.
  3. Yes, that's essentially what it's used for now. I play disc golf tournaments across NC/SC/VA, and this is the vehicle I use to drive to them. It makes several 200-600 mile road trips per year and saves me from putting too many miles on my truck. If you look up through the posts here, you'll notice I recently ordered some parts that I'll be putting on the car soon. One particular part might be an issue since you're up in Minnesota - the driver side blend door actuator. This was a common failure point on mid-2000's Subarus, the contact material on the drive gear inside the actuator that closes the actuator circuit and functions as a 'sensor' to control motor function for hot/cold air blending rubs away after some time and the actuator stops functioning. The door is currently in the Cold position and the actuator just failed. Normally this wouldn't be a huge deal, pull the dash and pop the new actuator in, it's a day of work - but I was just informed by my local dealer that these actuators are on backorder from the manufacturer and Subaru doesn't know when they will get them in. I can't guarantee the part will arrive any time soon, so you should go into this expecting that you won't have heat on the driver's side until Subaru gets a new shipment of these actuators. The rest of the parts will be installed this weekend.
  4. Hey 2JZ, see below: Is this an X or a Y? A little confused there, I realize the only difference is the turbo, but just curious. It's a Y, from a manual transmission JDM donor. The only other notable difference is the presence of some manual-specific hardware like the timing belt guide over the crankshaft timing gear. You said it got a new turbo, what's on it now? A new OEM turbo (VF40) was used. I'm not sure what the previous owner did with the twin-scroll turbo and other components that came with the long block, or if it even came with a turbo at all. What's in the car now is effectively what's in most JDM LGT EJ20 swaps: The original 255 intake/exhaust/turbo/cooling/harness/timing components/sensors etc connected to an EJ20 long block. You can drop in non-AVCS exhaust cams and get it tuned to better manage the higher compression and make more power, but for me this wasn't the route I had planned to go with the vehicle so hadn't messed with what's already in place. Is it the original transmission? Any issues? Yes, original transmission. Zero issues currently. It could use a valve cleaning or rebuild in the next 50k miles, but otherwise is just as bullet-proof as the next 5EAT when properly maintained. Any rust on fenders or underneath? No rust on any body panels. Some normal surface rust on suspension components, and rust on the rear subframe. The vehicle was in Maine, then made it's way down to VA then NC so skipped most of the usual 'rust belt' punishment. The most annoying rust issue I've come across was the radiator support bracket bolts (the ones up top) snapping. Unfortunately this is somewhat common on Subarus that lived up north. The space between the top of the bolt and the front crossmember creates a small valley that water gets trapped in. This isn't from my vehicle but you can see an example of it here. I haven't bothered drilling them out, I unironically consider zip ties to be an improvement to the original design. Are you negotiable or firm? Willing to drop to $3,500 if you aren't interested in the RE30's. Else, pretty firm. I know what the car does/doesn't need and it's already factored into the price. It's not a perfect car, but it's been stupidly reliable as a daily and it costs pennies to insure and license, so I'm in no rush to sell. Maybe I missed it, any other pictures i.e. engine bay, passenger side? I can take some pics of the passenger side and engine bay later today and post them up - should have them up later today or some time tomorrow. UPDATE: Photos of engine bay and passenger side added to original post.
  5. Update: Some more OEM parts on the way. Fuel cap, fuel pump bracket, fuel pump tank seal, driver side air blend door actuator.
  6. Couple of PM's but still available. Ordering some new OEM parts this weekend, will update the post as new parts arrive. Reminder/TLDR: price drops to $3500 if you opt to take the OEM LGT wheels and don't want the RE30s.
  7. Year, Make and Model: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon Color: Atlantic Blue Pearl Miles: 210700 chassis | 102000 engine Transmission: 5EAT Engine: EJ20Y Title: Clean, in-hand Lien: No liens Location: Raleigh, NC VIN: 4S3BP686654330399 Seller's email address: brand.anthony@gmail.com Asking Price: $4,800 Background Information For sale is my 2005 Legacy GT non-limited Wagon (hot leather and sunroofs are for suckers ) with 5EAT. I've owned this vehicle for the past 7 years. Always intended and used as a daily driver, every single functional part replaced on this vehicle through my ownership has been either OEM, or a proven name-brand manufacturer that's stood the test of time. Each OEM part was ordered through Hendrick Subaru located in Durham NC, receipts are available. This vehicle is OEM+, there are no high performance engine modifications and the car has only been daily driven and maintained to enhance reliability and drivability. Never beat on, tracked, raced etc. Every detail will be split into Good/Bad/Subjective categories below. Subjective just meaning some might think they are good and some bad, that's up to you. I'm in no rush to sell as I have other vehicles, so stuff in the 'BAD' category might slowly get resolved if nobody scoops it up. I'm located in south Raleigh, NC (southwest of Garner). If you want to pop over for a test drive or to inspect in person, let me know and we'll arrange something. GOOD: Maintenance: Oil changes performed every 4k miles. Always with full synthetic Castrol, new crush washer, and using the Tokyo Roki manufactured oil filters that are now carried by Mazda in the US (watch this if you don't know why) Transmission, brake and diff fluids changed every 30k miles. Air filters (cabin and intake) replaced every 15k miles. AC checked annually and blows ice cold Driver side blend door actuator replaced 2022 New OEM gas cap, fuel pump hanger and hanger gasket 2022 Head internals and seals inspected and serviced 2020 (see swap notes near bottom of post for more detail) All brake calipers rebuilt in 2020 Brake discs and pads replaced in 2020 PS pump rebuilt in 2020 (you certainly can, thanks Buna-N and screw you Subaru bean counters for sourcing a 'non-serviceable' pump) New Water Pump 2020 Timing Belt and ALL pulleys replaced 2020 Have an extra timing belt that will come with the car All Japanese parts (Aisin kit), no cheap Chinesium or Gates garbage pulleys New driveshaft installed 2020 Radiator/coolant hoses replaced 2019 PCV Valve replaced 2019 Entire PCV hose system replaced 2019 Passenger mix and blower door actuators replaced 2019 Infamous 'coffee percolator' dash noise problem New headlight housings 2018 No electrical gremlins, no CEL, no battery draining components Upgrades/Parts: Custom Rays Volk Racing RE30 Forged 17'x8' +44 5x100 - perfect fitment for a squared setup with 5x100 hub Subarus. Will fit big brake kits Matte Bronze with Brushed Bronze lip Wearing Nitto Motivos 225 45x17, ~70% tread remaining No rubbing on full lock or over bumps, setup is flush and maths r gud Also have stock GT rims with Continental Extreme Contact DWS ~60% tread Can negotiate lower price for the car if you do not want the RE30s, they are by far the most expensive part. Koni Yellows Installed 2020 Have one additional rear unit that will come with the car along with adjustment knobs Car will not come with original shocks H&R Sport Springs (Blues) Installed 2020 Car will not come with original springs 3/8 Saggy Butt Spacers Borla Sport Catback Exhaust Car will not come with original exhaust. This sounds too good to remove, anyhow. ProSport Boost Gauge It's a boost gauge. Hidden in left half of upper console cubby (see in pics) H&R 10mm Spacers and extended lug bolts on rear hub Full set of 4 spacers and additional bolts, only rears are installed to flush wheels JDM Double Din upgrade ILX-W650 with Android Auto and Apple CarPlay via USB i88 and 14pin Harness Adapters from SVX DC Llumar IRX Series Premium Ultrviolet/Infrared blocking tint Installed by Shade Custom Tint in Apex, NC 40% all the way around OEM Subaru Window Rainguards OEM Subaru Roof Rack Crossbars and key (not pictured) OEM Subaru Cargo Cover set OEM Subaru Trunk Protector (seen a lot of use) Have specialty Subaru tools that will come with the car Company23 EJ valve spring compressor Subaru cam sprocket wrench BAD: I have not replaced suspension bushings. They are still fine, but could do replacing in the next few years. Hairline crack along lower passenger side of windshield. I bullseyed to stop it spreading but have not filled it. Not really necessary unless the car will move somewhere icy. Upholstering on upper left bolster of driver's seat is separated. In the usual spot, but not super bad. Reverse lights can fog up in rainy weather. Water can get in between the exterior weather strip and the plastic cladding over the light housing, which allows it to enter the liftgate. Needs new weather strip to fix. Front wiper fluid tubes have deteriorated, you'll want to replace all the tubing if you want to use the fluid system. Rear still works fine but I rarely use it. Both rear door power lock actuators are weak. Liftgate supports starting to weaken and could use replaced. Fading trim on passenger side of roof rail and door window trim. Several small exterior flaws that are common on a high mileage vehicle, which you won't notice unless you look very closely, various small dimples and tiny scratches etc. Heat shield removed from part of factory exhaust manifold (pre-cat). SUBJECTIVE: Parts JDM EJ20Y Swap (2015) Swap was performed by a shop in Maine by the prior owner at ~150k miles, presumably after the original EJ255 experienced catastrophic turbo failure via oil starvation, but I can't say for sure. The EJ20Y reportedly had 43k miles on it at the time of the swap. A new turbo was installed along with the engine. I bought the vehicle in 2015 with 152k miles on it after confirming the motor they swapped in had good compression. Not running the JDM ECU, or an aftermarket tune. Oil passages to exhaust cams are not welded closed. JDM Exhaust Cam Position Sensor holes in the heads are plugged with aluminum IAG sensor delete plugs. Engine is still Exhaust AVCS capable if you want to make use of it for a future build, just wasn't worth it for me. In 2020 I removed the engine just before ~100k miles to inspect internal components for excessive wear or deterioration. Several parts were replaced with new ones or serviced before the engine was reassembled and reinstalled. Heads were machined and tanked by a local performance shop in downtown Raleigh - Boyette's. Valve seals replaced, guides inspected. Exhaust Valves replaced with new WRX valves (PN 13202AA401) and lapped to head after machining/cleaning. Valve adjustment performed and buckets shuffled as needed to meet clearance spec. Internal gaskets, o-rings and seals replaced. All tertiary systems inspected before reinstallation, PS pump rebuilt and water pump replaced. NGK Iridium Plugs gapped and installed. All belts and pulleys replaced. New tensioner installed with timing belt. Oil/Coolant flushed and replaced 100 miles after engine was put back in. This engine inspection and reassembly was a passion project through the first months of 2020 to keep me sane through COVID. I have other forms of transportation, so the Subaru napped in the garage while I took my time doing things right. All torque sequences and specs were followed to a T. This engine is good for another 100k miles of boosting someone to work before it needs anything major. SteamSpeed T3 Turbo Blanket Car will not come with the original turbo heat shield. Mishimoto Silicone Inlet Tube Purchased from TheLed0314 on these very forums. Rubber on OEM inlet tube is notoriously shit, this was intended as a no-nonsense replacement for it. Needed to alter mounting solution for recirc system to fit the tube with OEM GT hardware. Oldschool L7 grill Bought the car with a trashed front grill, so I made some lemonade. Matte black with a JDM L7 badge. Might not be your cup of tea. It's garage-made, not really meant to impress.
  8. I nearly did, was going to order a set from FI or a warehouse on ebay but they went on backorder and I decided to go a different route and get a set of 17's. My wagon is a daily driver so reducing sidewall is something I wasn't super keen on doing and took the backorder status as a sign. I ended up finding a clean set of legit Rays RE30's for a decent price so scooped those up instead. All that being said, clearly there are folks out there buying these wheels and I think eventually we'll see them on somebody's car. If you do pick some up, let us know how they fare.
  9. Shoud be np to use existing pump. If you want some peace of mind, I know some will say these pumps are not rebuildable/serviceable but this simply isn't true. Unless your pump suffers a fatal mechanical failure (run bone dry etc) you can purchase the necessary parts to service it yourself, usually just the o-rings are needed. Might be a good time to do it while you've got everything disconnected to do the rack, and only takes an hour or so. PS pumps are deceptively simple pieces of hardware, no wizardry to be found here. That being said, if you do service it don't let a single grain of dirt inside that thing.
  10. Welp. Was going to replace all shocks tonight but LMP sent 3 shocks instead of 4. Even packaged the single shock by itself in a HUGE box clearly meant for 2-4 units. So I guess it'll just have to sit on those totally safe recently recalled harbor freight jack stands that definitely won't fail for another week or two...
  11. The following post is dense with information regarding a wheel manufacturer and related operations. If you can't give two hoots about who makes your wheels, this is not the thread for you. Hopefully this information and research strategy will prove useful to others looking for factory replicas, or any wheel/part manufacturer you would like to know more about. If you want to skip the meat of this post and get to the raw data, scroll down to the bottom. -------------------------------------- I'm in the market for a new set of wheels, and happened across a set of STi Limited replicas from a brand I've never heard of - IPA Wheels. This is more about the brand than the wheel, and finding out whether or not their product is worth a damn. Not having heard of this company, and seeing the price (currently selling for ~$650 for a full set of 4 in 5x100) I was extremely skeptical. They definitely aren't forged, but what casting process is used to produce them? What material is used? Where are they made? Do the people who make these make other wheels that I would trust? Do they meet TUV/JWL standards or have third party VIA approval? Having access to the unlimited power of the internet, I did some research to answer these questions and find out whether these were just junk or if I got lucky and found a sore d**k deal. First, here's an image of the wheels in question and a link to their website: https://ipawheels.com/. Their site is sparse to say the least. No detailed information on their manufacturing processes or experience (or who manufactures for them). Just three styles of wheel with different sizes/offsets and a contact link. Not a good start. From here, I performed a quick domain lookup to see if I could find out who owns the domain to get started on my research. I left the phone and email information out of the results: Registrant Contact Information for ipawheels.com Domain: ipawheels.com Name: Primax Wheel Corp Organization: Primax Wheel Corp Address: 9568 RICHMOND PL City: RANCHO CUCAMONGA State / Province: CA Postal Code: 91730-6010 Country: US Some keen forum members who have been around the block might recognize Primax and might already see where this is going (I did not). Some info about Primax I've found in government and business registration directories is below. If you are researching a wheel (or any part) manufacturer and you've never gone this far, you'll want to start with the state listed on the address in the domain lookup you just performed. Search the state's Secretary of State (sosnc.gov, businesssearch.sos.ca.gov etc) site for the business by company name. Once you've found them, you will see public registration data. Primax Wheel Corporation Registered with California SOS CEO: Hui Mei Lan Entity ID: C1497555 Registered since: 1991, originally in Ontario CA Updated in 2012 to Rancho Cucamonga address seen in domain registration Primax Wheel Corporation has its own website: https://www.primaxwheel.com/. The site alludes to Primax having been around since 1976, and the only evidence I can find for this are a few old Primax wheels from the 80's. There's no public record I could find in a reasonable amount of time indicating they were incorporated in 1976, so I'll take that for what it is. Interestingly, they also cite ISO 9002, QS9000 and Jp VIA standards. Sure enough, if you take a look at their wheels they are all JWL stamped. Primax has been producing and selling their wheels in Japan for some time. Manifest records were the next data source I looked up related to Primax Wheel Corp. Manifest data suggests that their wheels are manufactured in Taiwan and shipped to Japan, the United States and Canada by the Fujibond Trading company. One of the item descriptions in said manifest is 'Lexani Wheels'. Okay, that's fascinating... Lexani is registered as a completely separate corporation, and following that road will take another few days of research so let's abandon this clue for now and move on. Taking a look at all of the active businesses operating out of the Rancho Cucamonga address shows the following company: Chu Kun Lan LLC. Chu Kun Lan was registered on 1/19/2010 to the Rancho Cucamonga address, by Hui Mei Lan (Primax CEO) two years prior to Primax moving to the exact same address. It seems Chu Kun Lan LLC was set up as a proxy real estate investment 'shell' to manage physical assets separately from Primax. The warehouse was purchased for around $2.5 million in 2010. Fair enough. Lastly, there's one more brand associated with Primax: XXR. Most of you will know about XXR Wheels. Here's the physical location in Google maps showing the offices. Note the donut stains behind the building, clearly this is our spot. And here's a domain lookup on xxrwheels.com to seal the deal: Registrant Contact Information for xxrwheels.com Name: Primax Wheel Corp Organization: Primax Wheel Corp Address: 9568 RICHMOND PL City: RANCHO CUCAMONGA State / Province: CA Postal Code: 91730-6010 Country: US Alright, that's enough for now. There's more information but I feel the above is a good start and honestly tells us most of what we need to know about the manufacturer of this wheel. The information I've collected combined with only verifiable information (sorry nasioc) is compiled below: Primax Wheel Corporation is a major wheel manufacturing outfit that has been incorporated as Primax Wheel Corporation since 1991. Primax uses a factory in Taiwan to manufacture low velocity squeeze cast (low turbulence and lighter weight than flow/gravity casting) wheels, unless otherwise specified (some forged wheels are available through XXR). Wheels manufactured by Primax are made of A356 aluminum. IPA Wheels is a subsidiary of Primax. XXR Wheels is a subsidiary of Primax. Both IPA and XXR branded wheels are manufactured in Taiwan through Primax. XXR operations have been housed out of Rancho Cucamonga, CA since 2012. IPAs initial introduction date as an additional brand of Primax is unknown. Based on the above information, it's safe to assume that IPA wheels will be at least as competent at performing their duties as any other squeeze cast A356 wheel. The material and process should be enough to convince most, assuming that a replica of this wheel in both 5x100 and 5x114.3 patterns is of interest to you. If you want more info on the material properties or use of A356 in automotive applications, check out these resources. The University of Windsor theses is particularly fascinating and should shine a light on A356 wheels cast with this technique. materialsdata.net link.springer.com scholar.uwindsor.ca I'll likely pick up a set of these replicas in the next couple of weeks, and report back any additional findings such as casting marks, wheel finish etc here. TLDR: IPA Wheels is owned and produced by the same company that owns and produces XXR Wheels, Primax Wheel Corporation. The same A356 aluminum and squeeze casting process is used to produce IPA, XXR and Primax branded wheels (unless specified otherwise).
  12. This has been my last two weeks. Can't get out and do anything really so just... driving.
  13. This has been solved! Compression tests showed excellent and even compression across all four cylinders. With bent valves out of the equation, the rest of the rotating assembly came into question. Luckily the first thing that came off (after alternator/coolant/rad) is the center timing belt cover. Removing the accessory pulley and subsequently the center timing belt cover revealed a huge clue... Looks like the timing belt had walked out from the top left idler pulley and melted its way through the cover. What I saw under the cover though was worse. All the black fiberglass-like dust you see in there is remnants of belt, coating absolutely everything. Also, the belt had snapped parts of the outer most metal core and parts of the belt were flaring out at the pulley intersections. Worst though was the strip tangled around the crank sprocket (look closely under the crank sensor). Belt's ultimate fate. The long strip of belt just left of center was the piece wrapped around the crank sprocket. Cleaning all this mess up, straightening/reseating the top left idler (there was some grease/dirt between the bottom back of the pulley and the block) and replacing the belt solved the P0011 as well as the slow 'knocking' sound. I assume the metal core in the strip of belt that was tangled around the crank sprocket was messing with the signal of the crank position sensor, causing the cam position sensor to read a position outside of safe limits when compared to the incorrect reading from the crank sensor. The metal strips of belt that were frayed must have been slapping the cover just above the crank pulley, causing the 'knocking' sound you can hear in the video. Lessons from this: Always level your idlers/pulleys before buttoning up the rest of your motor, and never ignore unusual engine noises. If driven another ~10 or so miles the belt no doubt would have failed completely and I'd be playing 4 drums with 16 bent sticks. All because of some filth on the block. Hopefully someone will find this useful!
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